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post #21 of 38
I read a couple stories about BP rotaries leaking, maybe a year old or older. Seems to have been an isolated batch. But yeah, I admit that the very idea of rotaries seems to leave you open to problems.

If you are that concerned, don't use rotaries. Use thicker tubing that is less prone to kinking or use fixed angle fittings without rotaries (though these are a pain in the ass since they don't necessarily "angle" in the direction you want).

No question there are risks in WC. Anyone who denies this is simply lying. You have to be careful, especially when you are disassembling things and draining your loop. I fried my old motherboard because some drops of water landed on my CMOS battery. The mobo was disconnected so I don't even know how or when it "fried", the thing simply never turned on again and stayed in standby mode only. I only noticed the water drops after I tried to turn it on.
Edited by matrices - 1/7/11 at 1:46pm
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post #22 of 38
I've never had a leak in my systems while on, only while flushing or adding a block. I only use Koolance compressions and 90degree compressions. I would never screw with rotaries. Always seemed risky to me, plus I don't mind a little extra tubing, can see in my sig
 
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post #23 of 38
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fat_italian_stallion View Post
I've never had a leak in my systems while on, only while flushing or adding a block. I only use Koolance compressions and 90degree compressions. I would never screw with rotaries. Always seemed risky to me, plus I don't mind a little extra tubing, can see in my sig
I'd love to only use compressions and no rotary stuff but some of the angles are too tight to bend pipe (or so I think) or the screw thread doesn't match the direction with 90 degree ones.

You can see what I did here: http://www.overclock.net/intel-build...ml#post9820669

I have removed the entire bottom radiator and connecting pipes. I'm going to replace that entire assembly with a direct connection from the pump to the gpu (with a drain line in between)
Edited by Shiva - 1/7/11 at 4:00pm
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post #24 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by Bal3Wolf View Post
This is one reason i went with barbs and some primochill reading about 45 and 90s leaking.
^this. i almost took the plunge and bought compression fittings to go with my new rx240 thats coming ups. But i thought to myself, The rest of my loop has barbs with clamps, i should probably stick with that. After reading this i am glad i did.

IMO compression fittings serve no purpose except for flare. And functionality is way more important then a loop with "flare".


To the OP: i hope you get this sorted out. I know how frustrating it can be to have hardware that is made by a manufactuer that you know and trust fail, can be extremly un-nerving. Good look with repairing your loop.
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post #25 of 38
I've never used swivel fittings long term, but I have had leaks from compression fittings and have heard about others with swivel problems. If you put a side load on them, you can compress the interior o-ring.

If you want to use swivels, you need to make sure you're tubing isn't going to put a sideways load against the swivel, only push/pull in line with the water route.

IMHO, standard barbs plus hose clamps may not look as smexy, but you won't have this problem. The good old KISS principal is a good one. Tubing is designed to bend, no need for all those potential leak problems.
    
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post #26 of 38
Uhhh...barbs are just as prone to leakage as compression fittings. The fitting is rarely the culprit, most always the o-ring/improper installation...or not using any teflon thread tape. The teflon isn't a necessity, but an added bit of security. I've had both leak and it's because I was a dimwit and installed without lubing the o-ring damaging it enough to cause a leak.
post #27 of 38
Thread Starter 
Compression or barb would make no difference in this case as it isnt the hose to connection which is leaking. It is the rotary joints on the angles.

I know pipe can bend but the pump exit to the drain/gpu is not easy to bend through without kinking (I've tried!). Therefore in this case I have little choice given the space limits.
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post #28 of 38
Quote:
Originally Posted by AliceInChains View Post
^this. i almost took the plunge and bought compression fittings to go with my new rx240 thats coming ups. But i thought to myself, The rest of my loop has barbs with clamps, i should probably stick with that. After reading this i am glad i did.

IMO compression fittings serve no purpose except for flare. And functionality is way more important then a loop with "flare".


To the OP: i hope you get this sorted out. I know how frustrating it can be to have hardware that is made by a manufactuer that you know and trust fail, can be extremly un-nerving. Good look with repairing your loop.
The compression part of the fitting never leaked. I have never heard of the compression part of the fitting leaking. The OP had leaks at the rotary section of the fittings. Where it swivels, pivots, turns, adjusts. I have heard this a couple times before.

But IMO, these compression fittings are just barbs with built in clamps. Real compression fittings have a compression right and have to be tight. I still prefer to use them.
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post #29 of 38
I bought a pack of 4 TFC 45 degree adapters and I'm not sure whether I should risk using them now. Sigh... Do you think it would be OK if I just used some water based lubricant on the o rings before I installed them? And if a leak happens I should be ok as long as everything but the pump is disconnected from the PSU and the cmos battery is taken out?
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post #30 of 38
a quality water loop has to be the best, but I will say that with a 32nm chip, air is plenty!
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