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DDC-1 is throttling? - Page 2

post #11 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soggysilicon View Post
If you dont have the 3 pin mobo header, then your pump is the 3.1? There is a mod that can be done to ramp up the pump to a 3.2 spec (solder mod) which makes it the same spec as the 3.2 (head pressure), afaik thats the only difference between the two, (that and the impeller is orange/white and not blue/orange) that and the mobo header.
Actually, a version of the DDC-1 called the DDC-1T that is the MCP350 12VDC@10W came with three wires; Ground, Power, and Tach. The pump has the black impeller.

The DDC-1T Pro or Ultra came with a blue impeller, the DDC-1+T was a red impeller and the DDC-2 orange. Avoid the DDC-2 since those are not reliable and were basically pull from retail and replaced with the Pro/Ultra.

NOTE: not all DDC-1T pumps can be mod'ed jumping the solder pads on the PCB. Two PCB boards exist; One with the old Philips IC (out of production) and another (recently used today) made in Italy.
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post #12 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post
Avoid the DDC-2 since those are not reliable and were basically pull from retail and replaced with the Pro/Ultra.
Misconception. A lot of the DDC-2s that failed were due to the Petra tops not being installed properly.
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post #13 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post
Actually, a version of the DDC-1 called the DDC-1T that is the MCP350 12VDC@10W came with three wires; Ground, Power, and Tach. The pump has the black impeller.

The DDC-1T Pro or Ultra came with a blue impeller, the DDC-1+T was a red impeller and the DDC-2 orange. Avoid the DDC-2 since those are not reliable and were basically pull from retail and replaced with the Pro/Ultra.

NOTE: not all DDC-1T pumps can be mod'ed jumping the solder pads on the PCB. Two PCB boards exist; One with the old Philips IC (out of production) and another (recently used today) made in Italy.
Ahhhh thanks for the info! The blue is the blue/orange then, so DDC-1T P/U? Just so I am straight! I was curious though as to why the OP stated he didnt have the tach connected, unless it was an older pump... maybe I just misread what he meant?
 
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post #14 of 18
Thread Starter 
Well, I tore the loop down today everyone. I had clogs. Icky, nasty, gunk floating around. I'm sure that's what has been causing the issue. The intake on the apogee block was covered with gunk. Tore the block down and cleaned it, took the pump apart and cleaned it, then rinsed the whole loop with some hot water (didn't have any vinegar available). Reassembled the loop with some distilled this time and put a few drops of PT Nuke in (3 this time, was ~1.5 drops before). No throttling as of yet. I think the loop was just getting clogged up. Props to whoever mentioned that before.

So, for now, problem solved. I'll keep an ear on it and see if anything changes. Thanks everyone!


Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post
Actually, a version of the DDC-1 called the DDC-1T that is the MCP350 12VDC@10W came with three wires; Ground, Power, and Tach. The pump has the black impeller.
This one had the black impeller. Cool, good to know what model exactly it is.
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post #15 of 18
Great job of digging right into the loop and getting the nasties out.

So, the question is, What is causing the gunk in the loop? If this isn't remedied, then the nasty gunk will be back. Tubing material or RAD flux usually are the biggest culprits.
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post #16 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post
Great job of digging right into the loop and getting the nasties out.

So, the question is, What is causing the gunk in the loop? If this isn't remedied, then the nasty gunk will be back. Tubing material or RAD flux usually are the biggest culprits.
I had put in some used barbs with some old dye left on them which I thought were pretty clean. The gunk was the same color as the dye that stained the barbs. I think some of the dye just seeped into the coolant. That coupled with me just using tap water and some other dye are the culprits I believe.
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post #17 of 18
Good to hear, I would watch out for Tap water though in the future, in fact I don't let tap touch any part of the loop, everything is cleaned with distilled water/vinegar/enzymes. Tap is generally reclaimed grey or waste water, and can, quite literally have **** in it and certainly bacteria and possible fungus.
 
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post #18 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soggysilicon View Post
Good to hear, I would watch out for Tap water though in the future, in fact I don't let tap touch any part of the loop, everything is cleaned with distilled water/vinegar/enzymes. Tap is generally reclaimed grey or waste water, and can, quite literally have **** in it and certainly bacteria and possible fungus.
Yea, it's a lesson learned. I was installing the loop for a quick bit to get used to the procedure. Certainly will be using distilled from now on. Thanks everyone, y'all rock!
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