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Sandy Bridge Build (Beginner - Looking for Advice)

post #1 of 26
Thread Starter 
I am going to build my first computer. I am having a friend help me overclock/build it, but he really didn't explain to me what parts I should buy. I spent a few hours browsing New Egg and I came up with a build. I have a max ~$2800 budget and this one was about $2500. I need advice if all this stuff is actually compatible with each other, and if there is anything I can improve upon. I want to make this computer somewhat future proof, and able to play games at max settings. I want air cooling because it's my first build and I'm worried about water cooling. I was also wondering if everything would fit in the case.

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X nVidia Edition NV-942-KKN1 Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case
MotherBoard: GIGABYTE GA-P67A-UD7 LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 ATX Intel Motherboard
Video Card:EVGA SuperClocked 015-P3-1582-AR GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Power Supply: CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Processor:Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
RAM:Mushkin Enhanced Redline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 996805
SSD: Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Hard Drive: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Sound Card:ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Channels PCI Express x1 Interface Sound Card
Network Card: On board
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler

Any help or comments are much appreciated. I'm really new to this, I just want to make sure everything works before I order it.


Edit: Ram is now Mushkin Enhanced Redline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 996805 Airolden

Edit2: Changed
Power Supply: CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Hard Drive: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Sound Card:ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Channels PCI Express x1 Interface Sound Card Thanks to grandestfail9190
Edited by xonix223 - 1/10/11 at 3:21pm
post #2 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by xonix223 View Post
I am going to build my first computer. I am having a friend help me overclock/build it, but he really didn't explain to me what parts I should buy. I spent a few hours browsing New Egg and I came up with a build. I have a max ~$2800 budget and this one was about $2500. I need advice if all this stuff is actually compatible with each other, and if there is anything I can improve upon. I want to make this computer somewhat future proof, and able to play games at max settings. I want air cooling because it's my first build and I'm worried about water cooling. I was also wondering if everything would fit in the case.

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X nVidia Edition NV-942-KKN1 Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case
MotherBoard:ASUS P8P67 PRO LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Intel Motherboard
Video Card:EVGA SuperClocked 015-P3-1582-AR GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Power Supply: COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RSC00-80GAD3-US 1200W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Processor:Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
RAM:CORSAIR DOMINATOR 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMP8GX3M2A1600C9
SSD: Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Hard Drive: Seagate Constellation ES ST3500514NS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Enterprise Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Sound Card: Creative 70SB088000004 7.1 Channels PCI Express 1x Interface PCI Express Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium
Gaming Network Card: VisionTek Bigfoot Killer 2100 Gaming Network Card
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler

Any help or comments are much appreciated. I'm really new to this, I just want to make sure everything works before I order it.
Overall, it is a very good build.

The motherboard looks good. You have it in the budget to get the Deluxe so why not? Or maybe get the Gigabyte GA-P67-UD7 if you want to REALLY go all out. The UD7 is the best motherboard on the market right now and has the NF200 chip so you may use additional PCI-E 2.0 lanes. You probably wouldn't use most of the additional features though so the Pro still may be a good choice.

Memory wise, I would not get Dominators. They are always overpriced for no real reason. You should get Mushkins, which are cheaper and a better manufacturer than Corsair. Also, what do you need 8GB for? Will you be doing intensive applications such as AutoCAD or Photoshop etc..? If you are just gaming with this build then 8GB is not necessary and you would be better off going with 4GB, it will put less stress on your IMC and allow you to overclock more easily. The timings on those sticks are also pretty bad. I would recommend some tighter timings on the RAM rather than higher capacity.

Otherwise, everything looks good. Hope I was of assistance, and good luck with your build.
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post #3 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Memory wise, I would not get Dominators. They are always overpriced for no real reason. You should get Mushkins, which are cheaper and a better manufacturer than Corsair. Also, what do you need 8GB for? Will you be doing intensive applications such as AutoCAD or Photoshop etc..? If you are just gaming with this build then 8GB is not necessary and you would be better off going with 4GB, it will put less stress on your IMC and allow you to overclock more easily. The timings on those sticks are also pretty bad. I would recommend some tighter timings on the RAM rather than higher capacity.

Otherwise, everything looks good. Hope I was of assistance, and good luck with your build.
Thanks for the advice. I only chose the Dominators because I saw they were a slightly higher price than the G. Rip/Mushkins so I thought that meant better. I think I'll use a better product and get 4GB now.
post #4 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by xonix223 View Post
Thanks for the advice. I only chose the Dominators because I saw they were a slightly higher price than the G. Rip/Mushkins so I thought that meant better. I think I'll use a better product and get 4GB now.
Look at these modules for some tight timings at an excellent price.

These modules are also very good, and are made by a much better brand in Mushkin. OCZ is not a very good RAM maker, though if you get a good kit it won't be bad. The Mushkins will work excellently guaranteed, though they cost a bit more. Up to you.
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post #5 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Airolden View Post
Look at these modules for some tight timings at an excellent price.

These modules are also very good, and are made by a much better brand in Mushkin. OCZ is not a very good RAM maker, though if you get a good kit it won't be bad. The Mushkins will work excellently guaranteed, though they cost a bit more. Up to you.
I'm not quite sure the difference between rams really is, but I'm sure you all know much more than I do. I'm going to go with the Mushkin Enhanced Redline 4GB (2 x 2GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model 996805

Thanks a bunch!
post #6 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by xonix223 View Post
I am going to build my first computer. I am having a friend help me overclock/build it, but he really didn't explain to me what parts I should buy. I spent a few hours browsing New Egg and I came up with a build. I have a max ~$2800 budget and this one was about $2500. I need advice if all this stuff is actually compatible with each other, and if there is anything I can improve upon. I want to make this computer somewhat future proof, and able to play games at max settings. I want air cooling because it's my first build and I'm worried about water cooling. I was also wondering if everything would fit in the case.

Case: COOLER MASTER HAF X nVidia Edition NV-942-KKN1 Steel / Plastic ATX Full Tower Computer Case
MotherBoard:ASUS P8P67 PRO LGA 1155 Intel P67 SATA 6Gb/s USB 3.0 Intel Motherboard
Video Card:EVGA SuperClocked 015-P3-1582-AR GeForce GTX 580 (Fermi) 1536MB 384-bit GDDR5 PCI Express 2.0 x16 HDCP Ready SLI Support Video Card
Power Supply: COOLER MASTER Silent Pro Gold Series RSC00-80GAD3-US 1200W ATX 12V v2.3 / EPS 12V v2.92 SLI Ready CrossFire Ready 80 PLUS GOLD Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Processor:Intel Core i7-2600K Sandy Bridge 3.4GHz (3.8GHz Turbo Boost) LGA 1155 95W Quad-Core Desktop Processor BX80623I72600K
RAM:CORSAIR DOMINATOR 8GB (2 x 4GB) 240-Pin DDR3 SDRAM DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) Desktop Memory Model CMP8GX3M2A1600C9
SSD: Crucial RealSSD C300 CTFDDAC128MAG-1G1 2.5" 128GB SATA III MLC Internal Solid State Drive (SSD)
Hard Drive: Seagate Constellation ES ST3500514NS 500GB 7200 RPM SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Enterprise Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Optical Drive: ASUS DRW-24B1ST/BLK/B/AS Black SATA 24X DVD Burner - Bulk - OEM
Sound Card: Creative 70SB088000004 7.1 Channels PCI Express 1x Interface PCI Express Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium
Gaming Network Card: VisionTek Bigfoot Killer 2100 Gaming Network Card
Thermal Compound: Arctic Silver 5 Thermal Compound - OEM
CPU Cooler: Noctua NH-D14 120mm & 140mm SSO CPU Cooler

Any help or comments are much appreciated. I'm really new to this, I just want to make sure everything works before I order it.
I would drop the 580 SuperClocked and grab a standard 580. The only difference is factory clock which you can do easily yourself. Saves some bucks for a better board or something and it's also a great learning experience.

Also, if you are only gaming, 8GB is just excessive. Grab some Mushkin Redlines (if they are still available) or some G Skill Pi's. They are 90 dollars at newegg and are rated at 1600 CAS6. You should definitely check those out.

If you don't intend on going triple SLI, your Power Supply is way too much. Look into a quality 750 or 850 watt if you want SLi and a quality 550 or 650 if you are staying single card.


Edit: Go for SeaSonic X series PSUs, Antec TP series, or Corsair AX or HX PSUs. Those are nice ones.

You can also trade in the Seagate for a Samsung Spinpoint hard drive. Some of the best hard drives in the market!
Edited by grandestfail9190 - 1/9/11 at 8:28pm
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post #7 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by grandestfail9190 View Post
I would drop the 580 SuperClocked and grab a standard. The only difference is factory clock which you can do easily yourself. Saves some bucks for a better board or something and it's also a great learning experience.

Also, if you are only gaming, 8GB is just excessive. Grab some Mushkin Redlines (if they are still available) or some G Skill Pi's. They are 90 dollars at newegg and are rated at 1600 CAS6. You should definitely check those out.

If you don't intend on going triple SLI, your Power Supply is way too much. Look into a quality 750 or 850 watt if you want SLi and a quality 550 or 650 if you are staying single card.
The Superclocked version is more likely to overclock, however. Remember every GPU is different and it may not be able to reach that overclock on stock voltage. The Superclocked version is more likely to overclock higher when given higher voltages also. Though I agree it is probably priced a little bit more than what you're getting, so the standard probably is a better value. Just clarifying the difference.

Glad we agree on the memory.

I didn't notice the PSU, yikes, yes that is overkill. Unless you foresee adding 2 or 3 more of those GTX580s () then I agree 1200w is very unnecessary. 750w or 850w units are good enough even if you plan on going 2 way SLI.

Happy to help as always.
Edited by Airolden - 1/9/11 at 8:25pm
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post #8 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by grandestfail9190 View Post
I would drop the 580 SuperClocked and grab a standard. The only difference is factory clock which you can do easily yourself. Saves some bucks for a better board or something and it's also a great learning experience.
Thanks for the idea, I never considered the possibility of over clocking it myself. I will probably do this.

Quote:
Originally Posted by grandestfail9190 View Post
Also, if you are only gaming, 8GB is just excessive. Grab some Mushkin Redlines (if they are still available) or some G Skill Pi's. They are 90 dollars at newegg and are rated at 1600 CAS6. You should definitely check those out.
I'm going to do this, thanks for the advice.

Quote:
Originally Posted by grandestfail9190 View Post
If you don't intend on going triple SLI, your Power Supply is way too much. Look into a quality 750 or 850 watt if you want SLi and a quality 550 or 650 if you are staying single card.
I did some research before I designed the computer, I just didn't know so much about the building and compatibility things. I got the higher power supply because I read that after your computer starts to get outdated/slows down, you can add a 2nd Graphics card. The 2nd graphics card will supposedly use a lot more power though, so I wanted to get something I knew would work. Thanks for the advice, I'll look into how much wattage I will need if at some point in the future I get a 2nd graphics card.
post #9 of 26
Quote:
Originally Posted by xonix223 View Post
Thanks for the idea, I never considered the possibility of over clocking it myself. I will probably do this.


I'm going to do this, thanks for the advice.


I did some research before I designed the computer, I just didn't know so much about the building and compatibility things. I got the higher power supply because I read that after your computer starts to get outdated/slows down, you can add a 2nd Graphics card. The 2nd graphics card will supposedly use a lot more power though, so I wanted to get something I knew would work. Thanks for the advice, I'll look into how much wattage I will need if at some point in the future I get a 2nd graphics card.
When you add a second card, you don't add a whole lot more power consumption. From going from single card to a dual, add another 100 watts or so from the single card requirements then you're set.

Also for your sound card, Go for one of the Asus sound cards. Some of the best for your money. I've also heard Creative has been having some sort of driver problems or something.

Also, swap your SeaGate for a Samsung F3 1TB. Those are the some of the best if not the best hard drives you can get.

If you want, get the regular HAF X since your case is most likely to stick with you the longest. You might start to dislike the green of it and it can become an eye sore. You don't have to, but it could be something you want to think about.
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post #10 of 26
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by grandestfail9190 View Post
When you add a second card, you don't add a whole lot more power consumption. From going from single card to a dual, add another 100 watts or so from the single card requirements then you're set.

Also for your sound card, Go for one of the Asus sound cards. Some of the best for your money. I've also heard Creative has been having some sort of driver problems or something.

Also, swap your SeaGate for a Samsung F3 1TB. Those are the some of the best if not the best hard drives you can get.

If you want, get the regular HAF X since your case is most likely to stick with you the longest. You might start to dislike the green of it and it can become an eye sore. You don't have to, but it could be something you want to think about.
Thanks. Im switching to this now,

Power Supply: CORSAIR HX Series CMPSU-850HX 850W ATX12V 2.3 / EPS12V 2.91 80 PLUS SILVER Certified Modular Active PFC Power Supply
Hard Drive: SAMSUNG Spinpoint F3 HD103SJ 1TB 7200 RPM 32MB Cache SATA 3.0Gb/s 3.5" Internal Hard Drive -Bare Drive
Sound Card:ASUS Xonar DX 7.1 Channels PCI Express x1 Interface Sound Card

I'm really getting surprised by how much money I am saving, and still getting a great computer. Thanks a lot!

The case color I don't really care about, I just saw it was the NVidia edition and I thought it would be easier to install NVidia card in the case that went with it. Also the reason why I chose that graphics card, I thought it would be easy to install with my case .
Edited by xonix223 - 1/9/11 at 8:49pm
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