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GTX 580 FTW Hydro Copper 2 - Page 2

post #11 of 30
I asked about this a few days ago. After a few questions it was cheaper and better to buy a GTX 580 and an EK waterblock.

I got the EK-FC580 Nickel+Acetal.
post #12 of 30
The FTW water block cards in my experience(building for others not using myself) are usually great at cooling the core, but do a very poor job at cooling the Memory, VRMs and other components.

What makes this, imo, especially problematic with nVidia cards is that there is no way in Win7 to read the temps of your VRMs or Memory so you just have to hope the block is doing the job or find your own way to take readings of these components.

The supposed advantage of these cards is that they are binned to require less volts to achieve standard overclocks.

In the end though with the EK Blocks(IMO the best build quality and performance) you can easily pump as much voltage through the cards as you want and usually equal if not exceed the FTW cards.

EVGA should stick to Air/Heatsink cooling and leave the Water to EK and Aquacomputer.
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post #13 of 30
since you'd be putting a waterblock on the card you need to get evga due to the warranty. Even if you get the 580 superclocked edition and added either the ek or the koolance block you'd still be better off than with the hydrocopper. Both the EK and Koolance blocks are amazing and have great build quality. EK if you're looking to be subtle and Koolance if you're in it for the bling factor
 
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post #14 of 30
That Koolance is really pretty, but EK's nickel-acetal with a nickel backplate isn't exactly subtle.
post #15 of 30
I would look at the pump as well as the block. Seems the head pressure plays the biggest role in terms of water cooling you want 50 PSI constantly but some set-ups can be 30 PSI or lower. When the pressure drops too low, you might as well stick with air-cooling. For example: the one you have might be excellent with a 50 PSI water pump with a very good radiator. If your pressure is closer to 30 PSI... Perhaps a block with more water contact area and less restriction would be better to suit your needs.
Just don't look at the block and make a decision, look at other factors as well ( PSI,Radiator efficiency, desired temps, GPM etc). Also take into consideration what metals are used. a good basis to follow is that the best conductors of heat are also good conductors of electricity. it goes in this order : Silver is the best conductor (when it corrodes to black it actually improves even more) then gold (which there isn't a pure gold block) then Copper and then Nickel and then lastly is Aluminum ( Twice as much aluminum is needed to conduct as same as copper... 50 % efficient...bad..) also bear in mind for heat transfer you want pure and not plated. Plated only offers resistance to corrosion in certain circumstances. the most Ideal ( and affordable) set up would have a pure copper block while using a corrosion and algae resistant coolant. However, the best if you can afford it is to have one made of silver and only worry about algae... let that light corrosion blacken the silver (might need to have someone machine you a silver block). yes Silver is a better conductor than gold,platinum,and of course nickel. Any adonized surface (like blackened aluminum for hardening) is bad. Stick with pure metals.
Edited by Skitzofreenic - 1/10/11 at 6:15am
post #16 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skitzofreenic;11958870 
I would look at the pump as well as the block. Seems the head pressure plays the biggest role in terms of water cooling you want 50 PSI constantly but some set-ups can be 30 PSI or lower. When the pressure drops too low, you might as well stick with air-cooling.

For example: the one you have might be excellent with a 50 PSI water pump with a very good radiator. If your pressure is closer to 30 PSI... Perhaps a block with more water contact area and less restriction would be better to suit your needs.

Just don't look at the block and make a decision, look at other factors as well ( PSI,Radiator efficiency, desired temps, GPM etc). Also take into consideration what metals are used. a good basis to follow is that the best conductors of heat are also good conductors of electricity.

it goes in this order : Silver is the best conductor (when it corrodes to black it actually improves even more) then gold (which there isn't a pure gold block) then Copper and then Nickel and then lastly is Aluminum ( Twice as much aluminum is needed to conduct as same as copper... 50 % efficient...bad..) also bear in mind for heat transfer you want pure and not plated. Plated only offers resistance to corrosion in certain circumstances. the most Ideal ( and affordable) set up would have a pure copper block while using a corrosion and algae resistant coolant.

However, the best if you can afford it is to have one made of silver and only worry about algae... let that light corrosion blacken the silver (might need to have someone machine you a silver block). yes Silver is a better conductor than gold,platinum,and of course nickel. Any adonized surface (like blackened aluminum for hardening) is bad. Stick with pure metals.

Good info there, but it was impossible to read. I just put in a few paragraphs to make it easier on the eye, no disrespect intended.
post #17 of 30
I don't know what Skitzofreenic is talking about, 50 PSI? Most watercooling loops are less than 10 PSI. An MCP 355 + XSPC Top @ 1 GPM only puts out 7 PSI of head pressure!
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post #18 of 30
Quote:
Originally Posted by charliehorse55;11959597 
I don't know what Skitzofreenic is talking about, 50 PSI? Most watercooling loops are less than 10 PSI. An MCP 355 + XSPC Top @ 1 GPM only puts out 7 PSI of head pressure!

He might use really big pumps applaud.gif
post #19 of 30
Thread Starter 
is their a big difference between Nickel and Copper ???

http://www.frozencpu.com/cat/l3/g30/c311/s1351/list/p1/Liquid_Cooling-Water_Blocks_VGA_-_Card_-_nVidia-GTX_580_Water_Blocks-Page1.html
the Danger Den one's are both copper but they cost allot...
one of them is: Chrome Top / Copper Base
and the cheaper one is: Satin Copper


the 2 best EK blocks are:
1) Nickel & Acetal
and 2) Nickel

and koolance one is copper with anti-corrosive nickel plating.

I guess the koolance one is the best but for the money thinking.gif
but will it give me better temps then the Danger Den blocks ? confused.gif

and what about the EK ones are they worth buying ??? confused.gifconfused.gifconfused.gif


I will be using a MCP35X pump...
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post #20 of 30
Based on a review by Skinnee Labs the Danger Den and EK blocks are the best available. Personally I would get the Nickel plated EK block.

The Danger den is about 2C worse on core temp but is less restrictive and offers better VRM temperatures. Personally I think that both blocks have very low restrictions and I'd rather have 2C lower core temperature than 10C lower VRM temperature.
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