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Laing DDC pump repair PCB mod - Page 3

post #21 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post
Martin, so now, have you found the ideal DDC pump for flow and lowest noise?

Also, did you get a chance to make a DIY step-by-step on how to solder the new PCB to the DDC pumps? That would be a great help to those looking to achieve what your findings do show.

Great to see the work and time you have put into this. Hats off to you friend!
I did the video for starters, but I'll work something up.

In the mean time, I just finished testing the Toshiba on your DDC-1 that you sent over:

For noise, I like the Sanyo on the DDC-1, but it's really a close match between the Sanyo/DDC-1 vs DDC3 series for best of DDC noise.

Best of noise all around would still be a D5vario (Koolance PMP-450) at fixed speeds using the Koolance COV-RP450 acetal top), but I also really like the MCP-35X for it's PWM capabilities.

I think the ultimate in pump noise is to automatically turn it up/down via either PWM like the 35X or using a controller capable of doing that via analog voltage. Koolance makes the TMS-200 and there are other options like the new aquareo 5, and a few others I don't know much about. Unfortunately nothing real cheap to do analog automatic controls, so PWM is pretty appealing for cheap control.

Also in terms of tops, acetal is better than acrylic or thin OEM tops, and the thicker the acetal top the better.

Still have more to do on the noise testing and decoupling testing front though, but I need to set up that test bench again before gathering more info for round 2..


Edited by Martinm210 - 4/24/11 at 10:33pm
    
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post #22 of 37
I just did this mod to an old DDC-1 lying around.

Since IIRC Martin received the PCB's fully assembled I'm going to put my thoughts on soldering the tiny components to the PCB.

First off, make sure you have all the correct tools BEFORE trying to solder anything. I thought I could get by with a pair of normal tweezers and had a hell of a time trying to hold the tiny 0403 sized parts in order to solder them. I recommend a cone tip for your soldering iron as screwdriver tips won't let you maneuver well enough. The tools I used were: precision tweezers, solder, soldering iron, flux, 30awg wire, wire strippers, heatshrink (1/8" or smaller), solder wick, and lighter/heatgun.

Secondly, make sure you have flux! I applied flux to the contact pads and then put a drop of solder on one pad. Once you've tinned one of the two pads, place the cap/resistor/diode on it and solder one side of it down. Next, solder the other side. If you tin both pads before placing the cap/resistor/diode then it might be hard to make the cap/resistor/diode even with the PCB since one side will be elevated.

Third, make sure the line on the diode goes on the side with the smaller box. In the screen printing on the PCB for the diode spot there are two boxes (one big, one small). The side of the diode with the line on it goes on the side of the PCB with the small box. Thanks to Martin for sending me a high res photo of his pre-made PCB so I could figure it out.

Fourth, make sure the controller's pins line up with the pads perfectly before soldering! It can be a total pain to try to desolder the controller chip. Having some solder wick on hand is highly advised. Don't forget to flux this area well too.

Fifth, it's helpful to have some extra wire on hand to extend the coils. I found that the wire on the coils was fairly brittle and while I was bending it to solder it to the new pcb it would snap. 30awg wire works perfectly. Don't forget to put a bit of heatshrink on your joint to prevent the wire from shorting to the underside of the pcb or anything else.

Sixth, be careful with the parts! Many of them are about the size of a grain of sand and are easily lost. If you do lose a part or two (guilty here) the part numbers are on the eBay page so you can order them from Digikey.

If this sounds like too much of a pain there's always the pre-made PCBs for $7 more.

BTW, if anybody needs some more of the capacitors because you accidentally lost some I have nine extra.
Edited by farkle0079 - 5/3/11 at 8:03pm
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post #23 of 37
Farkle0079,

GREAT write up on the do's and do-nots!

Ever since these two PCB's came out, while a moment in the day to spare, I've been sorting through the DDC-1 and DDC-1T pumps that are not passing a PCB test. So far, 4 of them are on the shelf.

Going the extra $7 does seem to be rewarding if the tools and skills lack messing with the tiny parts.
Edited by bmaverick - 5/5/11 at 11:06am
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post #24 of 37
This is still a great thread on making DDC pumps come alive once again.
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post #25 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by farkle0079 View Post
BTW, if anybody needs some more of the capacitors because you accidentally lost some I have nine extra.
Were these spares or did you choose to leave them out?
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post #26 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by bmaverick View Post
Were these spares or did you choose to leave them out?
I accidentally lost one of the original caps so I ordered more from Digikey. I think 10 was the minimum order.
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post #27 of 37
Quote:
Originally Posted by farkle0079 View Post
I accidentally lost one of the original caps so I ordered more from Digi-Key. I think 10 was the minimum order.
Now that is quick thinking.
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post #28 of 37
Been getting inquires for dead PCB pumps. I only have a few from time-to-time to offer at a great deal.

For those who are thinking of doing a DIYINHK PCB replacement mod, make sure the pump only has a PCB failure and NOT a dry seized up impeller problem. Most of the DDC pumps that have the click-click-click or the whack on the side to restart are the perfect pumps for replacing the PCB with the Sanyo or Toshiba DIYINHK boards.

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post #29 of 37
First let me state I simply love electronic modifications BUT I am not taking this kind of risk with my wc pump. I never had a rig do a cpu thermal shutdown before and I am not placing my feet on that street. If I want or need better pump performance,I know where to get it.
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post #30 of 37
First let me state I simply love electronic modifications BUT I am not taking this kind of risk with my wc pump, that device needs to be as close to 100% reliable as possible and I would always be wondering about the pump after this mod. I never had a rig do a cpu thermal shutdown before and I am not placing my feet on that street at this point in time. If I want or need better pump performance,I know where to get it.
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