Originally Posted by undertheradar
Those test results are inconclusive as far as the electrical parameters are concerned. Since its DC going in, we have no idea what the actual voltage/current phases are with respect to rotor position. The input to the pump itself, after the controller, is what would tell us more.
I never said they were conclusive, merely indicative; I used the ultimate get out word "maybe"
It depends on what is failing, if it is the motor then yes, it would be more useful to know what comes out of the controller. If the failure is in the controller, and said controller is designed to run with a maximum continuous input power of, say, 22W, putting 28W into it may well be the cause of "pump" failure. For all we know the motor itself may be fine.
There may be some AC dynamics going on in the controller / motor itself, but the DC input is still at a higher wattage than the stock pump, and the controller has to deal with that no matter what the motor "VA" is doing. This means that some part of the electrical system will exceed the stock operating conditions, and possibly the component ratings.
Note that again I am not offering any kind of proof or conclusive statement, just indicating a possible cause of the pump failure.
If anyone has a failed sample, would it be possible to take it apart (your warranty was void as soon as you changed the pump top) and try to locate the failed component? You never know, it might
even be repairable. It is unlikely, but still worth a shot.
Interesting posts undertheradar, thanks for the info.