Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974;13490632
I KINDA knew it, but again alot of the videos can be confusing with so many different options out there. I mean how do I learn if I dont set one up? There are kits on the EK site, and of course IVe found many others from the sites listed in the forum posting.
But the only thing Im sure of is the blocks for the 580s, since they say it specifically. Is a block for a 1156 working fine for my 1155 sandybridge? And so on.
Don't let the choices intimidate you. You're bound to make a few mistakes early on, but that can be said with any new hobby.
The 1156 water blocks do indeed fit all of the 1155 boards with regards to CPU blocks. Chipset blocks are a different story as they are made to meet the exact model and manufacturer. (The general consensus is that chipset blocks are a waste anyway.)
Originally Posted by Ironwolf1974;13490719
You cant discourage me more then I am right now! Its all very confusing. Ive watched all the videos here, watched all of Dazmodes videos. Read the entire thing twice now.
Just making sure the parts I like/want are what works with my components is wahts confusing me. I understand setting up the loop, the ID/OD of the tubing etc etc.
Ill check out that thread also.
You basically want these components and can go more extravagant from there:
- Pump. For less restrictive setups, a high gpm/lpm model is perfect, where if you're running several 90 degree fittings/several blocks (gpu/cpu/chipset) you will want to choose a higher head pressure pump. Swiftech MCP 655 is a great example of a high flow, and the 355 would be an example of high head pressure.
- Radiator. (Sometimes more than one if you're watercooling many parts.) Each radiator has different ratings on the heat/power it can dissipate as well as a FPI (Fins per square inch) rating. FPI is important as it will decide what kind of fans you will be using to move air through the radiator. High FPI rads require higher static pressures to move the air through as they are more restrictive. If your goal is silent operation, lower FPI radiators are typically better, higher performance uses high FPI rads at the cost of noise from higher RPM fans. Many newcomers to w/c start off with XSPC kits which include a low FPI radiator and decent fans.
- Fans. Based on the FPI and desired operation of your loop, your choice of fans is pretty simple. Gentle Typhoons are a very common fan used in watercooling as they offer both silent operation with the AP-14/AP-15 models while offering great static pressure. For the budget minded, Yate Loon fans offer good performance while being extremely easy on the pocketbook. If your goal is extreme performance, there are higher RPM/Static pressure fans available such as the Gentle Typhoon AP-29/30 models and Delta/Noiseblocker fans.
- Tubing/Fittings. The size is really up to you. 1/2" ID 3/4" OD is a very common size as it allows for some flexibility while maintaining enough rigidity to prevent kinks. Juggalo does a pretty good job explaining this in his videos as well as other tutorials found on this site. The one important thing to remember is that when choosing fittings, you want to match the ID for barbs, and BOTH ID/OD when using compression fittings. Another popular alternative is to use 7/16" ID tubing with 1/2" OD barbs as it provides for a really tight fit and can allow you to connect your loop without collars. If you're using 1/2" ID tubing, you should use collars/zipties to prevent them from slipping off over time. There are several different types of fittings for several different applications. I personally love using 45 degree rotaries as they help to keep my tubing straight and prevent kinks. Extenders can make the job much easier as well.
Keep in mind that while most fittings for blocks are G4, some are G3/8 and you will need an adapter. This is where planning out your loop before you start throwing it in your PC comes in handy.
- Reservoir/Fill line/Drain line. Reservoirs aren't really needed as they provide a method to keep water in your system and to give a visual on how full your loop is. I do recommend them as it makes your life much easier when gauging your loop's health. Reservoirs also (in my humble experience) make bleeding easier if they're placed above the pump/at the highest point in your loop. A fill line is just an extra tube that you connect to your pump's inlet and have exit at the highest point in your loop. This is more commonly used in minimalist setups where either a reservoir isn't able to fit, or the person is going for the least amount of components possible. Another tip I have is to put a drop of dishsoap in your reservoir/fill line when you're bleeding. Don't panic when you see a zillion bubbles popping everywhere. That's completely normal, and they will dissipate over time.
Something a lot of folks neglect to mention is putting in a drain line. I strongly recommend putting in a drain line (at the lowest point in your loop) by using a Y connector and having the output go to a quick disconnect/stop fitting. This will make changing your coolant much
easier and faster. This is something you can also see from the builds section, just look at the bottom of the case and look for where a line is seemingly going nowhere at the bottom. That's likely the drain line.
- Biocide/Anti-microbial. PT-Nuke is probably the best additive to kill off any nasties that want to thrive in your loop due to the nice dark, warm environment. If you don't want to put a chemical in your loop, a great alternative is a silver kill-coil. I just popped one in my reservoir, and it has been doing it's job quite well. You do not need both.
- Liquid. Distilled water is best. It's cheap and doesn't contain any chemicals that can degrade your parts. This is important as warranties are voided by some additives. Try to avoid any colored pre-mixed solutions as well. Dyes will separate over time, and build up in your loop's high-restriction points. (CPU block commonly)
- Blocks. Probably the most obvious part of watercooling, so the only advice I have is to not cheap out on this part of your loop. Avoid any aluminum based blocks like the plague, and read up on some of the comparisons. Again, the XSPC kit offers a really well performing block at a really affordable price. As I said above, any of the 1156 blocks will fit your board. GPU blocks come in two flavors, one that covers the entire card, and one that covers only the GPU. If you have non-reference design cards, you'll need to use GPU-only blocks, and find a means of cooling your VRMs.
Geez, I didn't realize I wrote so much here. >< A lot of what I wrote can be found all over this forum, so I definitely recommend reading up and asking more questions when you're uncertain. Also, please be sure to leak test your system for several hours with only
the loop running. You can find more information on this in here as well if you're unsure on how to do this. Keep lots of paper towels handy!
Hope this helps clear up some of the questions you might have, and good luck!