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Changing loop a bit; tubing, adding GPU; tons of questions!

post #1 of 11
Thread Starter 
My current setup consists of a MCP220 radiation, EK Waterfall 2bay reservoir, mcp655 pump, Stinger V6i CPU block.

I want to add my 6870 to the loop and change some things around at the same time.

The tubing I got at Home Depot is 1/2" ID and 5/8" OD, it's very flexible and looks very small. Would I be better off with 3/4" OD?

Would one radiator be enough for all this? If not, I'll be also adding a 140mm radiator to the back before upgrading my top rad.

Should I get 45 degree fittings to help route stuff through?

I'm also planning on getting another 6870 when they drop under 200$ (or when somebody here is tired of his and sells one for under 200$). Are there any preparations that I need to make to simplify the addition of another card in the loop?

The guy at the gas station gave me de-ionized water instead of distilled water, I'm not sure it's a good idea; would it essentially do the same thing?

Are there block for my motherboard? It'd be cool because the northbridge runs at like... 80C

Finally, when my waterfall is off, it's foggy, is it normal?

Here's a pic:


Thanks if you've read through here
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post #2 of 11
Hello i'll try and answer everything as best as i can. 1/2 ID 5/8 OD tubing is just fine as long as you are not doing any tight bends. If the tubing does start to kink moving to 3/4 OD should help. Now radiator wise you could be ok depending on if your cpu is overclocked (6870's ive heard run fairly cool) however it will increase your temperatures and if it were me i would add another rad. 45 deg fittings are generally frowned upon as they lower your flow-rates. I would only use them if the same thing could not be accomplished with better tube routing. If you are planning on using a full cover block for your 6870 then adding another one later will be very straight forward and will require minimal effort. And no, do not use De-ionized water. I've heard it causes corrosion, just stick with distilled. Yes im sure they probably make blocks for your motherboard, probably just have to shop around, sidewindercomputers and frozencpu are a few good places to look. And finally im pretty sure the fog is normal, its just water trying to escape its eternal torment in your loop LOL Hope that answers most of your Q's!
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post #3 of 11
Thread Starter 
Pretty solid answer!

I have a small kink which I think will get fixed with moving the pump somewhere else.

Yes it will be a full block, CPU is overclocked at 4.0ghz at 1.4v; Idle temps are 39C, Gaming 50C and 100% load (which never happens) is 75C.

I've looked a few months ago when I bought it, but couldn't find any blocks, will look again.

For water, now that I used "bad" water, do I need to clean stuff up or it's fine for now?

Thanks +rep
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post #4 of 11
I would not use the home depot tubing. The thinner wall 5/8" O.D. stuff will definitely kink on tight turns. The 3/4" stuff is really stiff and will cause undesired pushing and pulling on components. On a side note, the tubing from home depot will cloud really bad with the use of any additives
IMO stay away from home depot tubing, get the Tygon, or Primochill
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post #5 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asustweaker View Post
I would not use the home depot tubing. The thinner wall 5/8" O.D. stuff will definitely kink on tight turns. The 3/4" stuff is really stiff and will cause undesired pushing and pulling on components. On a side note, the tubing from home depot will cloud really bad with the use of any additives
IMO stay away from home depot tubing, get the Tygon, or Primochill
I've already set eye on some Primochill blue UV tubing in 3/4" OD but it's the only color that my shop doesn't have in stock.
Since I'm in Canada, ordering from FrozenCPU is quite expensive and a bit of a hassle as well.
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post #6 of 11
You should definitely clean or at least flush out your components and replace the coolant with new distilled water. After running your loop for a while most of the crap left in the parts like the radiator should be in the old coolant, so your loop should be nice and clean after you replace the water.

Also, don't use automotive deionized water unless it's the only stuff you can get. Most of the time it contains a "bittering agent," which is probably methanol. Methanol is fairly toxic, and, more importantly, it's known to damage acrylic and the resin bonds in components like reservoirs.
Edited by Davs - 1/13/11 at 9:08am
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post #7 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Davs View Post
You should definitely clean or at least flush out your components and replace the coolant with new distilled water. After running your loop for a while most of the crap left in the parts like the radiator should be in the old coolant, so your loop should be nice and clean after you replace the water.

Also, don't use automotive deionized water unless it's the only stuff you can get. Most of the time it contains a "bittering agent," which is probably methanol. Methanol is fairly toxic, and, more importantly, it's known to damage acrylic and the resin bonds in components like reservoirs.
Interesting, how would I "flush" my components?
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post #8 of 11
Quote:
Originally Posted by shnur View Post
Interesting, how would I "flush" my components?
hot water and white vinigar
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post #9 of 11
You will need more rad than your 220. The addition of a 120 or 140 should be okay for your cpu and two 6870s (ideally, you would want 480 total rad space, but you can get away with a 220 and a 120/140)

45 degree adapters are awesome. They are great for making bends on the tubing, and generally make things look cleaner. You'll have cleaner bends, and you won't put added pressure on the fittings that way. (and no, they won't have a negative impact on your flow rates.)

Definitely get rid of that home depot tubing and get some 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Primochill PRO LRT. I've since switched from Tygon tubing (fantastic stuff) to the PRO LRT tubing because it's cheaper and performs pretty much exactly like Tygon.

Do not use de-ionized water. You need distilled. De-ionized water is mainly used for washing cars/trucks/machinery because when it dries it doesn't leave behind mineral deposits (spots). De-ionized water still has microorganisms though, which are a no-no. Do not use it. Use Distilled water instead (it should be noted that most Distilled water has microorganisms in it, not from the distillation process, but from the receptacles used to ship and store the water).

The only water blocks I know of for the Asus Sabertooth X58 board are universal blocks. Danger Den has some nice ones.

Yes, it's normal for your EK spin res to be foggy. That's the evaporation and condensation going on inside the res.
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post #10 of 11
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Asustweaker View Post
hot water and white vinigar
Ok, I'll do that; thanks!

Quote:
Originally Posted by mhaneline View Post
You will need more rad than your 220. The addition of a 120 or 140 should be okay for your cpu and two 6870s (ideally, you would want 480 total rad space, but you can get away with a 220 and a 120/140)

45 degree adapters are awesome. They are great for making bends on the tubing, and generally make things look cleaner. You'll have cleaner bends, and you won't put added pressure on the fittings that way. (and no, they won't have a negative impact on your flow rates.)

Definitely get rid of that home depot tubing and get some 1/2" ID 3/4" OD Primochill PRO LRT. I've since switched from Tygon tubing (fantastic stuff) to the PRO LRT tubing because it's cheaper and performs pretty much exactly like Tygon.

Do not use de-ionized water. You need distilled. De-ionized water is mainly used for washing cars/trucks/machinery because when it dries it doesn't leave behind mineral deposits (spots). De-ionized water still has microorganisms though, which are a no-no. Do not use it. Use Distilled water instead (it should be noted that most Distilled water has microorganisms in it, not from the distillation process, but from the receptacles used to ship and store the water).

The only water blocks I know of for the Asus Sabertooth X58 board are universal blocks. Danger Den has some nice ones.

Yes, it's normal for your EK spin res to be foggy. That's the evaporation and condensation going on inside the res.
Just ordered a 320 rad since it was 55$; the only 120mm rad I can find is a Thermochill and it's at 100$

Sunday, I've ordered some tubing, a pair of fittings, the 320 rad and a GPU block. I've skipped the 45/90 degree fittings since at 12$/piece they run quite expensive! I'll try to see what I can do with what I have at the moment before ordering them.

I think I won't watercool my motherboard for now, I'm too lost in the blocks, I need to do more research on them.

As for the fog, should I just open the top from time to time to let the air out/breathe? Or it should be isolated at all times?
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