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Where to spend my money?

post #1 of 32
Thread Starter 
Hey all!

I am moving from an h70 into the realm of full loop water cooling. My goal is to get my i7 950 above 4Ghz and still run good temps. I have been reading and researching a lot into what components I need and which ones are the best.

I have several questions that I will ask in this post.

I am considering either the XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 or RS360 Kits. Would this be sufficient?
Will I get better performace per dollar if i piece my own system together?

What are the most important components to spend my money on?
I assume the water block is one of these. I am prepared to get the EK Supreme HF or Swiftech APOGEE-XT block. I am leaning more toward the EK Supreme HF simply because I have seen a lot of reviews about the Swiftech APOGEE-XT claiming that the screws begin to strip after 3 or 4 seats.

Pumps:
For right now, If I can get away with only water cooling my cpu, that would be great. Is there any reason I would need to water cool the chipset, mosfets? I have not seen anyone water cooling their Asus Sabertooth X58, which is the mobo I am using. Does the chipset, mosfets need to be cooled when overclocking the cpu a lot? I may add a cooling block to my GPU (Redeon 6870) in the future.

Basically, right now, I will only be water cooling the cpu. Is there a well priced pump that I can get that will support this, and maybe one other cooling block in the future.

I know the importance of the block, rad, and pump. Are these the areas I should spend my money?
Edited by kirb112 - 1/13/11 at 7:17am
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post #2 of 32
The Rasa kits are very popular, either a 360 radiator will handle CPU and future GPU or the 240 rad will handle the CPU now. Blocks, most like the Supreme HF, it's on my list as an upgrade Motherboard cooling is generally not needed unless you get into extreme OCing or massive SLI setups, you should be fine on stock. You can always add the mobo blocks later if you find you need them, but it's probably best to save your money upfront.

If you wanted a do-it-yourself budget loop, I'd say:

$~70 MCP355 or MCP655
$30-50 Swiftech MCR 220 or MCR320 radiator (they're very inexpensive and perform well with low airflow, though they're a performance step below the thicker RX and TA/PA rads, you won't really see much impact on a CPU only loop)
$? Supreme HF

Yate Loon HS + Fan controller
$3.99 @PPCs, 5 I think at Petra's/Sidewinder No need for a res, I prefer a T-line, but that's personal preference.

Pump tops are useful for the 355, but not really needed for the 655.

Tubing
$2/ft max @ ~5' I'm guessing for CPU only
Edited by SaltwaterCooled - 1/13/11 at 8:11am
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post #3 of 32
Thread Starter 
Thank you for the great info. If I went with the Rasa 240 kit, would I just add a 120mm rad in the future, this would be sufficient for cpu + gpu right?
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post #4 of 32
Thread Starter 
I am eying this res/pump combo.

XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655

I have not been able to find any reviews on the pump on in this combo. Does anyone know how well this performs? Specs? Will this handle more than one cooling block?
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post #5 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirb112 View Post
I am eying this res/pump combo.

XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655

I have not been able to find any reviews on the pump on in this combo. Does anyone know how well this performs? Specs? Will this handle more than one cooling block?
It works fine for cpu and gpu single loop, my friend is running a 1055t @4ghz at all times and a 480 that is pretty heavily ocd and his gpu temps at load never get above 54c.
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post #6 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirb112 View Post
Thank you for the great info. If I went with the Rasa 240 kit, would I just add a 120mm rad in the future, this would be sufficient for cpu + gpu right?
Yes, or sell the 240 and get a single 360 or just keep the 240 and turn up the fans + run a bit hotter. A 240 will still dump enough heat with high fans to support a CPU and mid-range GPU, it's all about how hot you're willing to see things, the 240 CPU + GPU will probably have temps similar to air, maybe 15-20C delta above ambient..? It becomes less a matter of capability and more of desired performance.

Quote:
Originally Posted by kirb112 View Post
I am eying this res/pump combo.

XSPC Dual 5.25" Bay Reservoir - Laing D5 / MCP655

I have not been able to find any reviews on the pump on in this combo. Does anyone know how well this performs? Specs? Will this handle more than one cooling block?
I have a pair of D5s running in my sig rig; I love them personally. I've never used a 355, but I've had these 655(vario model) for 3 and 2 years each, both are running flawlessly. I have them paired in an EK Parallel Dual top with the pumps spaced out in the loop to decrease the pressure-drop across the loop. I also have a very large loop though. In most practical applications I don't think you'll see any performance difference between the D5 and the 355. The only difference is that there are more tops for the 355 though EK and others have started making more 655 tops. I would also say that I prefer a T-line to a res, but that's personal preference.

Edit: The D5 will easily handle several blocks. I have 2 D5s on the highest speed setting, for 3 rads, 2 mobo mosfet blocks, 1 CPU block, 2 GPU blocks, and several assorted elbows and I get great flowrates/temps. Also noise is not an issue, once bled the D5 is essentially silent, you'll have to touch it to make sure it's running

Also, I am not familiar with the Sniper, but make sure you look at whether the dual-bay res will fit in your case with the specific drive rail arrangement.
Edited by SaltwaterCooled - 1/13/11 at 9:06am
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post #7 of 32
Thread Starter 
Is a T-line used to bleed a loop? I have heard of t-lines being used through reading through the forums, but can you explain how it works, and how it can be subbed for a res?

I have been reading about pump tops and different barb fitting sizes. Are barbs used to connect a res/rad/pump to the tubing? I can imagine the different sizes are for different desired pressures. Is this correct? ex: 1/2" fitting would provide more flow, but lower pressure than a 3/8" fitting. I can see that this would be desirable to increase flow, but undesirable because of low pressure. (Assuming my theory is correct)

I am a total noob at this, and sincerely appreciate all your help.
Edited by kirb112 - 1/13/11 at 10:12am
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post #8 of 32
A T-line lets you add water to a loop much like a reservoir, it's just smaller in volume and takes up less space in the case. Once a loop is bled, it's a closed system, so there will not be much (any) water loss, so having a large res is not necessary, they're more akin to an overflow tank on your radiator instead of a gas tank.


DSC_4628 by SaltwaterCooled, on Flickr

You can see the T just before the pump, and it goes up vertically to keep a small amount of water in reserve. You want to have the T or res (a water source) right before the pump, so that it doesn't ever run dry when filling. For simplicity I just a threaded stop-plug that allows me to attach a longer tube and funnel when I want to fill the loop, but allows me to only have the short line (~12") in the case when the loop is blen and running. I prefer the T because it's flexible and cheap, and doesn't have any of the issues with cycloning or gurgling that may occur with a res, or the space requirements of a bay res.



As to barbs, I would recommend 1/2 barbs, they're the standard size for most components (a 355 is stock with 3/8 barbs so I'd either get a top or a 655 which has 1/2 barbs), and they allow the most volume flow which is my mind is most important. You wont get into jet/nozzle effects with the barbs, so focusing on maximum flow and minimum restriction is key. That's why you see 'fat boy' barbs and others, that have a 1/2 OD (for 1/2 tubing) and a very large Inner Diameter, to allow for the most water to run through.
Edited by SaltwaterCooled - 1/13/11 at 10:35am
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post #9 of 32
Thread Starter 
Very helpful!

If I can save money and not have to get a res, I am all for that!

Is the 355 or 655 a better pump? Would you recommend the 655 or 355 w/ 1/2" top?

What is the benefit of the 655 model w/ speed control? Is this necessary?
Edited by kirb112 - 1/13/11 at 10:57am
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post #10 of 32
Quote:
Originally Posted by kirb112 View Post
Very helpful!

If I can save money and not have to get a res, I am all for that!

Is the 355 or 655 a better pump? Would you recommend the 655 or 355 w/ 1/2" top?
I prefer the 655 for its speed controller, cool operating temps and stock 1/2" barbs.

I am uploading some more pics for you, I just added some water to demonstrate.

Here's the T, you can see the water level in it, just below the fan.

DSC_4784 by SaltwaterCooled, on Flickr

Again:

DSC_4783 by SaltwaterCooled, on Flickr

Added water, new level right near that wire.

DSC_4785 by SaltwaterCooled, on Flickr

Here is the line tucked back in and hidden:

DSC_4787 by SaltwaterCooled, on Flickr

And my funnel setup.

DSC_4786 by SaltwaterCooled, on Flickr

It's also worth noting that I could put a fillport in the top of the case and just hook the T to that, but I prefer the stock appearance on the top, so I haven't done that.

Also not relevant, but you can see from the pics with the mobo in them that the rig is on while I'm adding water, the shutter on the camera just made the fans look like they're still...

Final point, I'm clampless because that is 7/16ID tubing over 1/2" fittings, it's extremely tight/durable/waterproof, and it looks much sleeker. It's a pain trying to get the tubing on there, you need to use hot water to soften it, but then it's pretty much on there permanently, you'll have to cut it off. Again, my preference
Edited by SaltwaterCooled - 1/13/11 at 10:57am
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