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Beer Frig W/C setup - Page 2

post #11 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by radodrill;12010023 
A fridge is not a good idea for actively cooling water; there are flow-through water chillers (used a lot for soda fountains and beer dispensing) that are designed specifically for that purpose.



Only if the surface temp of the tubing is at or below the Dew point (based on room temp and humidity; look up psychrometrics). For example, with a 75*F room at 40% RH, the dew point is 48*F; so an object in the room has to be at or below 48*F for condensation to form on it, taking into account that the tubing acts as an insulator, the actual fluid can be slightly colder (maybe 40-45 *F) and you still wouldn't have any condensation.

I mention this because he is asking the freezing temperature of water with a anti-freeze additive. Therefore, he is assuming that he will be sub 32F. Which would, most likely, create condensation on the tubing.

If you are looking for sub-ambient temperatures and are interested in building a robust watercooling system check into TECs/Peltier Would be much more plausible.
 
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post #12 of 16
Thread Starter 
First thank you for the replies and yes I would love to get the fluid down to 32 degress.
But after reading these and other post on the fourm I think I will try a Rad before the frig. I will see if the temp stay below 60C at 5.0Ghz's.

Now I was looking at insulating the tubing (custom hoses from House of Hose) to prevent drips inside the case.

Thank you all for the imputs and I will post pictures once it is fully built.
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post #13 of 16
Don't use a radiator in your loop if you are going for sub-zero temperatures. Unless you literally have 25,000W+ of computer components you aren't going to be heating the water from below 0 to above room temperature, so the radiator would only add more heat to the loop.

Basically, water out of fridge maybe 30F, goes through entire computer then comes back 31F, so a radiator would actually be warming it up with the 70+F air.
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post #14 of 16
Going cold on the whole board is going to be a pita. If you really want to go sub ambient and get cold I would recommend a dual loop setup. One loop that is a normal cooling loop with a rad for the chipset. A second loop that is the subambient loop for your cpu.

Going really cold is going to take a lot of insulation to prevent condensation from forming. Read this thread about how to properly insulate for cold temps. link THis will give you an idea of what to prepare for if you choose this path.

Lastly a fridge is a bad idea for a cooler. The design of the condensor is not built to take an active load. Like others have said going tec/peltier is a good way or build a chiller system with a portable a/c unit.

I had at one time built a large enough case to enclose my computer in a small area with an a/c unit cooling the air inside. THen I strapped my cpu rad to the evap. This worked actually pretty well for cooling. Kept condensation under control because it dropped the ambient temp and the a/c unit acted as a dehumidifier. The downside was it was three feet from me and the heat output from the condensor was too much for me. Plus I moved and had to scrap the case due to space.

Lots of ways to do it just be creative and use what you have. But take the needed precautions when it comes to condensation.
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post #15 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by charliehorse55 View Post
Don't use a radiator in your loop if you are going for sub-zero temperatures. Unless you literally have 25,000W+ of computer components you aren't going to be heating the water from below 0 to above room temperature, so the radiator would only add more heat to the loop.

Basically, water out of fridge maybe 30F, goes through entire computer then comes back 31F, so a radiator would actually be warming it up with the 70+F air.
If I add a Radiator I would skip the frig all togather.

Frozenw /FPN
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post #16 of 16
Thread Starter 
After talking with a few of you and taking some of the inputs/changes this is build list. FYI Frig is out of the picture. But in the future their may be a AC unit in the picture.

Phase I
1.XSPC RASA CPU Acetal water block= 47.95
2.Swiftech HFlow Fitting 1/4in BSPP thread to 3/8in ID Barb=(2.50 x 16)40.00
3.Swiftech MCP355 12v DC High Performance Pump 3/8 BARB=69.95
4.PrimoChill PrimoFlex Pro LRT 3/8”ID 5/8”OD with 1/8” Wall-UV Green =
(2.25 x 10) 22.50
5.Herbie Clip Nylon Hose Clamp Size F - Black = (16 x .23) 3.68
6.XSPC Acrylic Res. Top for the Laing DDC (Fits Swiftech MCP/335)= 39.79
7.XSPC Single 5.25in Bay Res. = 31.99
8.XSPC RX360 -3X120mm Rad Rev.2 = 84.95
9.Silver KillCoils by iandh = 5.99

Total: 346.80

Phase II
10.Bitspower Black Freezer MOS AMOSII = 49.95
11.Bitspower Black Freezer MOS AMOSIII = 49.95
12.EK Rampage II Extreme NB/SB chipset Ver 2 = 74.95
13.Enzotech AS-REII ASUS Rampage II Extreme Forged Copper Powercard = 46.95
14.Tecnofront Airbox 360 = 24.95

Grand Total: 593.55

Removed for the build

1.PrimoChill Ice Non-conductive UV Green (32oz) = (3 x 19.99) 59.97
2.FrozenQ Liquid V Series “2nd Gen” Res. 400mm UV Cathode/UV Red Helix = 139.95
3.Bitpower Matte Black Rotary 90 Degree Compression = (16.25 x 2)
32.50


Any Inputs?

Thanks
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