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first timer custom loop temps not right please help - Page 2

post #11 of 19
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Sorry about spelling. Using iPhone ATM.
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post #12 of 19
Just out of curiousity, which state you in? I'm in NSW at the moment and my temps are great, despite having a 25C ambient.
I'm also only running on air, but I have no experience with liquid cooling, so I can't really say that it's running hot or anything.

My CPU temps @ 31C while the cores are all hovering around 40C.
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post #13 of 19
I would try taking your ek supreme hf apart and putting the highest flow plate in there, especially because your pump does not excel at pushing water at high pressure, in other words make your loop as least restrictive as possible. Also, another reason why your temps might be high is because it sounds like your pulling hot air from your case up through your hot rad. I would suggest trying to flip those fans around, so that they pull in cool air from outside the case.

Other than that, I also stand by the recommendation of distilled water.


Quote:
Originally Posted by Unit_4 View Post
I also noticed that when I rum prime95 my temps jump from 40 to 65/70 almost instantly and when I stop it the drop back not as fast but almost as fast.
Make me think something wrong there. Aslo my temps don't chance if my fans are 1200 rpm or 2200rpm. Temps stay the same.
There is definitely something wrong there. I'd say there is a mounting issue there with your cpu block.
Edited by Behemoth777 - 1/15/11 at 5:51pm
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post #14 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by Behemoth777 View Post
I would try taking your ek supreme hf apart and putting the highest flow plate in there, especially because your pump does not excel at pushing water at high pressure, in other words make your loop as least restrictive as possible.
A D5 at speed 5 is pumping more than enough water through the loop. He could add another cpu, block his mobo, add another video card and still be well over 1GPM. Taking apart the cpu block to switch to the highest flow plate is totally not needed. He should be using the best performing plate (P1).
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post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by mhaneline View Post
A D5 at speed 5 is pumping more than enough water through the loop. He could add another cpu, block his mobo, add another video card and still be well over 1GPM. Taking apart the cpu block to switch to the highest flow plate is totally not needed. He should be using the best performing plate (P1).
Agreed. If he did swap plates out I almost certainly think his temperatures would go up.

@ OP

Have you made sure that your radiator is bled? Top mounted radiators can be tricky to fully bleed to try and tip your case back and forth to see if you can get any air to come out.
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post #16 of 19
Quote:
Holy mother! 30C in the winter? where you at?
it was Minus 27C a couple of weeks ago in my country D:
Haha, what part of england?

my ambiant room temps were at 10 - 15 degrees C in that time period, i even opened my windows to see how cool i could get my computer, got an overclock from 4GHz to 4.2GHz with the help from winter
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post #17 of 19
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Game first.
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post #18 of 19
First off, nice build, very clean. Well done.

Your water is getting to 6-7C above ambient after 1hour of load, which is decent. You wont be able to knock too much off that with extra rads, so I would stick with what you have for now.

It might be worth trying to re-seat your CPU block. You can change your thermal paste if you want, but you will not get much of a difference, maybe 1-1.5C if you go for some Shin-Estsu (see Vapor's test for a quick comparison). You may get a lot more of a difference from a better mount though. Have a look at the spread of the TIM when you take the block off and see if you need more or less.

Other than that do as Charlie suggests and make sure that you rad is bled. You can do this by tilting and shaking your case with the pump running (jump it as you did for the leak test to remove the chance of buggering your HDDs or anything else). Make sure that your res top is on tight, we don't want any little accidents...

Another method is to remove the rad from the case (with the tubes still attached) and shake / tilt it with the pump running. It looks like you have enough slack in the tubing to do this if you are not happy about shaking your case.

To be honest though 65C is good for a 4GHz OC with an ambient of 30C, I was surprised when you said that your H50 managed better than that.
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post #19 of 19
Thread Starter 
Thanks heaps for the tips.
I flushed system and just waiting on some distiller water.
I also moves the fans to the top rad and will be pushing air from outside the case.

This is my first ever built. The only thing I knew about a pc was how to turn it on and off. And use eBay.

Then some how 3 months ago I seen a pic of a water cooled pc and thought wow thats different. Then I was very curios then I found this site and well after a lot of reading I have slowly learned a bit. And ended up with what I have now. It's great fun I really enjoy modding. Just want on some more mdpc x sleeving then I will post some better pics. I have sleeved them all black but it hides them to much.

Thanks again.
Will let u know how I go with fans and research of CPU.

How tight should I tighten the 4 CPU nuts ??
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Game first.
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