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Please Read Before Purchasing EK Nickel Plated Blocks - Update: Revised plating info - Page 67

Poll Results: In light of EK's nickel failure, will you buy their blocks?

 
  • 39% (230)
    Yes, continue or consider using their blocks (copper or nickel)
  • 60% (354)
    No, I will look into other manufacturers.
584 Total Votes  
post #661 of 1650
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post
We've been tossing around ideas to help people with affected blocks to find ways to fix them. I'm planning to either sandblast my blocks to copper or use a bio-friendly chemical stripper. This of course if EK decides to do squat.

Imo, selling them in copper has a better chance of bigger selling price then selling something that shows defects.

I'd rather sandblast these two blocks than deal with EK. The time that I will be consuming dealing with EK, shipping the blocks and waiting is really not worth it. I'm just gonna go to a typical auto-body shop for a sandblast service than deal with EK.
post #662 of 1650
One issue people might run into with blasting are the micro fins (if the block has them). I think a chemical strip would be best, then blast later if you want a satin finish.
 
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post #663 of 1650
@tsm106
that's exactly how i'm going to roll,the way i have my rad's it will give me the best perf./look,parallel have slight advantage over serial any way
Edited by coolhandluke41 - 6/3/11 at 2:11pm
    
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post #664 of 1650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Angrybutcher View Post
One issue people might run into with blasting are the micro fins (if the block has them). I think a chemical strip would be best, then blast later if you want a satin finish.
Thanks! I'll read more about chemical stripping. This one might be the best and quickest way to remove the nickel.

I'll be happy with the pure copper as long as it doesn't leak.

+1
post #665 of 1650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by _s3v3n_ View Post
Thanks! I'll read more about chemical stripping. This one might be the best and quickest way to remove the nickel.

I'll be happy with the pure copper as long as it doesn't leak.

+1
Quote:
I've been doing some reading, any thoughts on MetalX B-929???
Quote:
Caswell Inc. distributes three MetalX Nickel Strippers:

* MetalX B-9 strips nickel from steel, without etching the base metal.
* MetalX B-929 strips nickel from copper, brass, zinc diecast, pot metal, silver and gold, without etching the base metal.
* MetalX B-913 strips nickel from aluminum, without etching the base metal.

MetalX strippers will strip nickel at the rate of 2 mils per hour, and will strip 2.5-6 ounces of nickel per gallon of stripper solution. Electroless nickel will strip at the same rate, providing the phosphorous content does not exceed 5%. Higher phosphorous electroless nickel will take longer to strip.

* 2.5 lbs of MetalX stripper makes 1 gallon of stripping solution.
* Use plastic, unlined steel or stainless steel tanks
* Agitation is required during stripping
* Stripping tank must operate between 120°F-150°F. To prolong bath life, heating should be discontinued immediately after stripping is complete.
* Stainless steel or titanium heaters must be used. No quartz or ceramic heaters.
* Instruction sheet will be provided with purchase.
Link

-wermad
This may help. Sandblasting creates a lot friction and may cause weakening of the microfins on some blocks imo.
post #666 of 1650
I don't no if this is relevant as Iv'e only seen the blocks in pics but taking off the nickle from around the acrylic may make it a little less water tight depending on how well it fits
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post #667 of 1650
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Greenback View Post
I don't no if this is relevant as Iv'e only seen the blocks in pics but taking off the nickle from around the acrylic may make it a little less water tight depending on how well it fits
the o-ring is pretty beefy and thick, that's why its a pita to put it back on . The nickel layer is very thin, in EK's case too thin might be their overall problem .

so no worries if you strip the nickel. Its most likely the same o-ring they put in in both copper and nicekl blocks, that is more cost-effective (???, lol)
post #668 of 1650
Brand new block put under a microscope.

http://www.realredraider.com/vbullet...ad.php?t=47917


EK can't have any form of quaility control at all.
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post #669 of 1650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid7 View Post
Brand new block put under a microscope.

http://www.realredraider.com/vbullet...ad.php?t=47917


EK can't have any form of quaility control at all.

as much as people hate RedRaider, he does cut through the BS some companies like to shovel to customers.
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post #670 of 1650
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rapid7 View Post
Brand new block put under a microscope.

http://www.realredraider.com/vbullet...ad.php?t=47917


EK can't have any form of quaility control at all.
I'm reading it now. Looks like a great analysis, and done by someone who seems to have the right experience and credentials.... Ugh if only he just used the word "hypothesis" like the rest of us instead of ansatz

EDIT:

After reading it, great analysis, and it CLEARLY shows that without a microscope, you can see where the plating has been scratched off (and this was a delrin top, so very forgiving material on top), and that's brand-freakin-new...

Upon deeper inspection, the surface is littered with pores. Now, that meas the question isn't "are the blocks having flaking problems because of problems in the nickel plating," it's instead "how long will it be before the nickel flakes off." Of course, maybe this one random sample is the bad one... but the probability is low... Is the author selling something else? I don't know.

TLDR: stick with a solid copper block with a non-metallic or copper cover
Edited by Dr.GumbyM.D. - 6/4/11 at 2:15pm
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