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I found out it is possible to use an original Tuniq Tower 120 on an 1155 build.

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I've been perfectly happy with my Tuniq Tower 120 (this is the original, not the extreme) so I figured I might as well use it again on my i5-2500k build.

Getting a base plate was easy, I got the Xigmatek bracket ( http://www.newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835233038&cm_re=xigmatek-_-35-233-038-_-Product ) I'm not sure if the screw holes are the same on the Tuniq Extreme adapter or not.

The top bracket was another story. I couldn't adapt the Xigmatek bracket in any way that I felt safe to hold down the heatsink so I set about modifying the original Tuniq top bracket.

I took out my set of steel drill bits and started widening the holes. It took a lot of drilling and some of it is pretty close to the edge but it seems pretty solid. I had to cut off one of the K8 holes as it was hitting the P8P67 Pro's heatsink. Finally, I took washers to hold the springs in place and then screwed it on. It seems to be holding great.

I haven't gone too far in overclock testing but using the asus defaults and bumping it up to 4.5ghz it seems to be doing good. At the worst I'm hitting 60c on full prime95 load. I doubt the Arctic Silver has fully settled yet, I have the fan on quiet and I haven't tweaked the voltage, so I'm fairly sure I can get that temp much lower.

This way I can spend that $60 I would have needed for a new heatsink on a Gtx460 after rebates. smile.gif

Here's pictures of the top plate, heatsink screwed in, and oc stats.

5362295136_cfa64cc2f6_b.jpg

5362295222_da0488a24c_b.jpg

5362295278_716bfcb7c5_b.jpg
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post #2 of 6
well done!. 1.32 is not stock volts though. If you havent touched the voltage that means vid is on which means that as you overclock the board ups the voltage for you. with my cooler at 1.32 and 4.5 my max temp is like 5.7 so your cooler seems to be doing its job just fine after the mod. Also I was just looking for a metal bracket for my h50 since i broke the plastic one so thanks for that now I know which one to get
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post #3 of 6
Hum ! a bracket will cost you just $6 ..
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post #4 of 6
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ckybam3;12040361 
well done!. 1.32 is not stock volts though. If you havent touched the voltage that means vid is on which means that as you overclock the board ups the voltage for you. with my cooler at 1.32 and 4.5 my max temp is like 5.7 so your cooler seems to be doing its job just fine after the mod. Also I was just looking for a metal bracket for my h50 since i broke the plastic one so thanks for that now I know which one to get

Sorry for the confusion, what I had meant was I just used the Asus default overclock settings, letting it automatically handle the voltage itself.


Quote:
Originally Posted by JeanF;12095089 
Hum ! a bracket will cost you just $6 ..

There are 2 brackets on the Tuniq Tower 120 (original not extreme)
The bottom bracket that goes under the motherboard is easily replaced, I got a $10 Xigmateq bracket for that.
The problem is the top bracket that goes on the heatsink and holds it to the processor and bottom bracket is very proprietary and not something that I can just buy for $6.

Believe me, if I could have I'd have loved to save myself the headache but Tuniq only makes a 1155/1156 bracket for the Extreme, not the original.
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post #5 of 6
Thanks for this post, it was really helpful. Ordered the same Xigmateq bracket from Newegg and used a drill to widen the holes in the Tuniq bracket, and removed one part of the K8 bracket with the same drill so I could mount it like you have yours. I didn't widen them as much as you did (I went up one size drill bit each time, went to test, etc until I found a suitable hold) because, to be honest, it looks pretty scary what you've done! tongue.gif

Anyways thanks again for this great post. I was happy to reuse my Tuniq and not have to buy a new heatsink. (BTW, Tuniq support definitely said they don't make a bracket for the Tuniq Tower 120 - thank goodness for us creative, fearless individuals! smile.gif Did your temps drop significantly after the Arctic Silver 5 cure time (200 hours)? (Our builds are almost mirrored, down to the thermal paste!) I also find that cores 2 and 3 (the last two) are always ~5c hotter than the other two. Is this true for you as well? I imagine that it's due to bad thermal pasting under the heatspreader, but oh well there smile.gif
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post #6 of 6
I did this a bit differently for socket 1155 with the tower 120 extreme. Since I cannot find their backplate kit in local stores and have no power tools whatsoever nor the protection equipment, I purchased a scythe mugen 2 1155 backplate (cheapest I could find, you could get whatever works best for you) , widened the holes on it just a bit to get the original HS bolts with a barbecue fork (1155 is the middle hole of the three), screwed in the 4 bolts, inserted the backplate, turned over the motherboard applied four remaining paper stickers that came with the cooler (there were 8 in total but the old ones did not come off the old mobo) screwed in the nuts (screw caps) over them but did not tighten too hard so I would not damage the motherboard but just enough to secure the flimsy rounded bolts tuniq has; mounted the cooler and that was it (don't forget the thermal paste). I did not put the nuts as originally intended by tuniq (directly between the backplate and the motherboard) because the scythe backplate has a rubber on top which is great, but takes up some space, and you may notice that there is not that much space between the backplate and the case (actually the bolts sit on it, as did the original design without bending the motherboard in any way). Removing the rubber made no sense as it did offer protection. Best of luck with your mods, i am getting 30 Celsius on idle, 50 on full load with an i5 2500k (non-overclocked cpu, but I guess there is room for that with these temps).

---
L.E. About the thermal paste. I also used AS5, and in my opinion the best way to apply it is to put a 3/4 line and spread it with a paper card (credit card could leave scratches, plus it's less flexible), actually it's like oil painting ...resulting in a thin layer that covers the entire cpu...then pass the card over one more time on the entire surface to level and prevent air bubbles from forming afterwards (inspect one more time for uniformity and you are set to go). Also for this particular cooler the heat pipes have some small joining spaces so use a bit of thermal paste spread and clean it off. Best tool for this is a paper filter from the coffee machine. I believe that this way it should run optimum in one hour, because it is already spread entirely and it is thin. Do not go overboard with the paste, it is oily enough to spread it everywhere and yet remain only on the cpu if the layer is very thin. Also goes without saying I take no responsibility for the backplate mod, you can decide for yourselves and assess the risks, if any.
Edited by negrutzz - 4/10/11 at 11:41am
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