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post #1751 of 1895
Negative Houston...BIOS 1.D is working fine cause I'm scared of the new ones.
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post #1752 of 1895
Hi guys i am new in this forum and atm i building my new rig and i am using a P67A-GD55 mobo with an i5 2500k cpu.

My question is should i use 4pin or 8pin CPU power connector??

Iam also using Corsair TX 750 V2 and it has a 4pin to 8pin CPU power connector.I have already plugged in the 4 pin but i amm to afraid to push the other 4 in coz it seems to me the shape is different.
Edited by Zanklont - 11/11/11 at 3:45am
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post #1753 of 1895
I've recently purchased a GD53 (B3) mobo with an i5-2500k and had a dabble with some overclocking and have had some intermittent problems with my Vertex 3 120GB SSD.

Firstly the SSD. Had a number of BSOD's with the error code F4 with default CPU clocks and my memory on the std XMP profile. I also experienced stuttering in windows whilst watching video streams or playing BF3. My PC would stutter with the mouse juddering around, similar to if you pressed play/pause quickly when listening to music. I was using the 1E bios that was installed when I bought it. I then tried the latest Beta Bios 1FB but my PC kept crashing with no warning or BSOD. I've since reverted back to the 1D Bios that is supposedly the most stable and the best for overclocking. I'm yet to try the LPM fix suggested and so I'm hoping that may resolve the problems I'm experiencing, although I'm open to any other suggestions.

With regards to overclocking in the Bios UEFI. On my previous x58 board I found that using Low Line Calibration 2 really helped stabilise my overclocks. I notice that on the GD53 I have either the AUTO option or LOW VDROOP CONTROL (High VDROOP control is missing). Which is recommended to stabilise the vcore?

On another note, just for clarification. In the UEFI under Integrated Peripherals I have AHCI enabled, and below this option all the SATA ports are listed and shown to have Hot Plugging Disabled. I just want to make sure this is the only place I need to disable hotplugging as it's important for my SSD to run smoothly.
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post #1754 of 1895
i never seen the option"high vdrop control" on this board biose's...only auto and low...then i think for ssd the hotplug option should be enabled..
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post #1755 of 1895
So the general concensus is to put VDroop to Low or to Auto for the best OC?
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post #1756 of 1895
low...with auto u cant get high overclock
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post #1757 of 1895
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zanklont View Post

Hi guys i am new in this forum and atm i building my new rig and i am using a P67A-GD55 mobo with an i5 2500k cpu.
My question is should i use 4pin or 8pin CPU power connector??
Iam also using Corsair TX 750 V2 and it has a 4pin to 8pin CPU power connector.I have already plugged in the 4 pin but i amm to afraid to push the other 4 in coz it seems to me the shape is different.
Just try it. You're supposed to plug in all 8 and it will work.
Quote:
Originally Posted by m k b View Post

With regards to overclocking in the Bios UEFI. On my previous x58 board I found that using Low Line Calibration 2 really helped stabilise my overclocks. I notice that on the GD53 I have either the AUTO option or LOW VDROOP CONTROL (High VDROOP control is missing). Which is recommended to stabilise the vcore?
On another note, just for clarification. In the UEFI under Integrated Peripherals I have AHCI enabled, and below this option all the SATA ports are listed and shown to have Hot Plugging Disabled. I just want to make sure this is the only place I need to disable hotplugging as it's important for my SSD to run smoothly.

LLC doesn't work. Auto or low makes no difference. If you wanted to use LLC (which is a bad idea), don't worry, it's on by default.

I believe it is the only place to disable that.
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post #1758 of 1895
when i first boot my computer up the screen with the option to enter the bios doesn't appear, unless i hit the cmos button and reset everything it will... can someone tell me what to look for in the bios to change that? i have no idea what it would be after looking for a while. i'm running version 1.e but i think i'll change that after finding this thread, i wonder if that's what is causing this?
post #1759 of 1895
Quote:
Originally Posted by m k b View Post

I've recently purchased a GD53 (B3) mobo with an i5-2500k and had a dabble with some overclocking and have had some intermittent problems with my Vertex 3 120GB SSD.
Firstly the SSD. Had a number of BSOD's with the error code F4 with default CPU clocks and my memory on the std XMP profile. I also experienced stuttering in windows whilst watching video streams or playing BF3. My PC would stutter with the mouse juddering around, similar to if you pressed play/pause quickly when listening to music. I was using the 1E bios that was installed when I bought it. I then tried the latest Beta Bios 1FB but my PC kept crashing with no warning or BSOD. I've since reverted back to the 1D Bios that is supposedly the most stable and the best for overclocking. I'm yet to try the LPM fix suggested and so I'm hoping that may resolve the problems I'm experiencing, although I'm open to any other suggestions.
With regards to overclocking in the Bios UEFI. On my previous x58 board I found that using Low Line Calibration 2 really helped stabilise my overclocks. I notice that on the GD53 I have either the AUTO option or LOW VDROOP CONTROL (High VDROOP control is missing). Which is recommended to stabilise the vcore?
On another note, just for clarification. In the UEFI under Integrated Peripherals I have AHCI enabled, and below this option all the SATA ports are listed and shown to have Hot Plugging Disabled. I just want to make sure this is the only place I need to disable hotplugging as it's important for my SSD to run smoothly.

These are known Vertex 3 issues documented in the OCZ Vertex 3 forums. There are firmware updates and solutions for the BSOD and stutter. There are also recommendations for first time install of the SSD. Here is the steps I followed to resolve these issues on my system.

1. remove the drive
2. clear the cmos
3. set hotplugging to disabled, set up bios then f10 and exit,....now power off
4. attach the drive
5. reflash the FW to the drive with hotplugging disabled
6. once reflashed, power down the system, remove power to the drive for 1 minute, reconnect the drive and power on.
7. boot to windows... go to device manager, navigate to disk drives, navigate to the SSD drive, right click on it...uninstall
9. you will now be asked to reboot
10. boot back to windows, let the drive be installed again and reboot
11. boot back to windows, make sure power scheme is how you want it ( i run balanced with sleep and hybrid enabled and LSPM to moderate)
12. reboot then run WEI
13. reboot

6. is MOST important, just had this confirmed by SandForce, the drive right after being flashed HAS to see a full power cycle...i want you guys to be ultra thorough about this, if you can remove the drive or minimum take the power cable off the drive for at least 30 seconds.

I used the Linux iso flash tool they have posted and system not overclocked when doing the flash. System in AHCI mode, with latest stable bios (in my case 1.D) I also made sure my SSD was aligned and in my case used the Intel Storage drivers (10.6.0.1002 ). You want to try both the MSAHCI and Intel to see which one works best for you.
Edited by prmax - 11/18/11 at 5:46am
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post #1760 of 1895
I recently picked up a gd55 and it was fine from the factory, aside from a minor issue where it would not reboot properly from Windows. It had to be shutdown, then manually turned back on. No problem I thought, I figured I'd update the bios with the latest version on the MSI website, using the update utility from a flash drive.

I reverted to defaults before updating (nothing overclocked, etc), ran memtest, passed, and then updated to BIOS version 1.15 (latest on the MSI website, probably shouldn't have given MSI the benefit of the doubt...). Everything seemed to go fine, it booted, gave some codes at the bottom right... and then nothing. Blank screen. Won't POST after those codes at the bottom right and would not boot into Windows.

Resetting CMOS seems to come up with a screen that lets me know it reset properly, and to hit F1 or F2 to restore defaults or continue, or something. Typical after a CMOS reset.

The problem with this screen is that it either 1) hangs immediately after, or 2) my keyboard no longer works and hitting F1 or F2 do not register.

Can anyone help me? My only options right now seem to be to RMA the board as I can't get into the bios and can't get it to boot at all.
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