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[Build Log] Operation Pikachu - Page 8

post #71 of 112
I always buy vanilla and oc myself. The first thing I do is look up the superclocked card and try those clocks bam works then I go up from there.

I just took my 570's to 900-1800-1900 @ 1075mV and broke 11k in 3DMark11:

http://3dmark.com/3dm11/496246
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Easy V3
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post #72 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rlin View Post
Let's say money isn't a problem, should I still stick the with original, or get the superclocked? Will I be able to overclock the superclocked even more than the original? Also, what fan/fans should I get for the GPUs? Keep in mind, I am getting a HAF X.
Evga has repeatedly said that they don't do any sort of binning with their cards. This means that any of their vanilla cards should overclock just as well as their SuperClocked and SuperClocked+ edition cards. Basically, their is no reason to spend any more more on their SuperClocked cards, unless you aren't going to overclock yourself.

You shouldn't have to get any extra fans for these cards. However, you might want to look into watercooling if you want to get the most out of your cards and CPU. If you do decide to go the watercooling route, I would recommend getting a Corsair 800D, rather than a HAF X.
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Intel Core i5-4670K Asus Maximus VI Impact EVGA GTX 680 SuperClocked G.Skill Trident X Series 
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AMD Athlon II X2 250 Gigabyte GA-MA785GMT-UD2H ATI Radeon HD 4200 (Onboard) 2GB Kingston ValueRAM DDR3 1333Mhz 
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LITE-ON 24X iHAS424-9 Windows 7 Ultimate x32 Antec BP550 Plus Rosewill R101-P-BK 
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AMD Athlon II X2 250 Gigabyte GA-MA785GMT-UD2H ATI Radeon HD 4200 (Onboard) 2GB Kingston ValueRAM DDR3 1333Mhz 
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post #73 of 112
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisischuck01 View Post
Evga has repeatedly said that they don't do any sort of binning with their cards. This means that any of their vanilla cards should overclock just as well as their SuperClocked and SuperClocked+ edition cards. Basically, their is no reason to spend any more more on their SuperClocked cards, unless you aren't going to overclock yourself.

You shouldn't have to get any extra fans for these cards. However, you might want to look into watercooling if you want to get the most out of your cards and CPU. If you do decide to go the watercooling route, I would recommend getting a Corsair 800D, rather than a HAF X.
I dislike the idea of watercooling, because of the potential risk of the water leaking. I have no experience installing loops, so I'll stay away from them.

With my current parts, my system is cool enough, right? Just checking.
Also, can you give me an estimate of how much I can overclock with my current fans?
post #74 of 112
Mionix Naos 5000
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post #75 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rlin View Post
I dislike the idea of watercooling, because of the potential risk of the water leaking. I have no experience installing loops, so I'll stay away from them.

With my current parts, my system is cool enough, right? Just checking.
Also, can you give me an estimate of how much I can overclock with my current fans?
Yes, with your case cooling and D14 you should be able to overclock your 990x to at least 4.0Ghz, more likely around 4.5GHz+. As for the 580s, ask =Tac= and tconroy135, or check out the Nvidia subsection. I really don't have too much hands-on experience with the 4xx and 5xx series.

Keep in mind that all GPUs and CPUs will perform differently, depending on things like their batch number, the motherboard they are in, or something as simple as who is overclocking them.
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post #76 of 112
Thread Starter 
Bump due to the updating of components and accessories. The parts have also been prefinalized. Please take a look and comment on them. I will need a space, compatibility, and adequate cooling check. Prices, pictures, and more sections to come.
post #77 of 112
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rlin View Post
Bump due to the updating of components and accessories. The parts have also been prefinalized. Please take a look and comment on them. I will need a space, compatibility, and adequate cooling check. Prices, pictures, and more sections to come.
  1. I still recommend going the route of getting some RAM with lower latency.
    If I were you, I would get three sets of this.
    If you don't want to spend that much on RAM, I would go with a set of this. It runs at the same speed as the RAM you selected, only it does so at 1.5 volts (rather than 1.65) and cost quite a bit less.
  2. For your boot drive, I would get either this or this SSD, depending on how much space you need for your OS/programs. C300s have the highest speed in IOPS for 4K read right now, which means your programs and OS will be more responsive. For the rest of your drives, I would get either this or this, as I have had absolutely no problems with Mushkin and G.Skill in the past. In addition, they have some of the best reputations in the industries of both RAM and SSDs. Corsair RAM, on the other hand, is usually overpriced and doesn't perform as well as Mushkin and G.Skill for overclocking (at least this has been my experience.) I would expect the same from their SSDs.
  3. Concerning your sound card/headphones, I really wouldn't recommend going with the Xonar Xense bundle. The Sennheiser headphones bundled with the sound card really won't let you get all you can out of the sound card. I would still get the sound card, but instead of the bundled headphones I would pick up a pair of Sennheiser 555s/595s/558s/598s (depending on how much you want to spend) if you like your bass or Audio-Technica's ATH-AD700s/A700s (depending on whether you like open or closed cans) if you plan on doing a lot of gaming in the future. For a mic, I would get .
  4. In respect to your mouse, I would recommend the G9X only if you have a "claw-grip." If you have more of a "palm-grip" I would recommend the Razer DeathAdder. Here is one if you're right handed, here is another if you're left handed.
  5. There really is no reason to buy a Razer Black Widow Ultimate over the regular Razer Black Widow. Also, if you don't need a back-lit keyboard, I would recommend getting something along the lines of a DAS. Create a thread asking about mechanical keyboards if you want to know which one will suit you the best (as I really don't know too much about the 10+ types of mechanical switches.)
  6. As I've said before, get a better type of thermal paste than Noctua NT-H1. Some IC7 Diamond would be great, as would some Shin-Etsu.
I think that's all the suggestions I have for now


Edit: Wow, that's a lot longer than I thought it would be. Lol.
Edited by thisischuck01 - 1/24/11 at 8:49am
mITX Build
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-4670K Asus Maximus VI Impact EVGA GTX 680 SuperClocked G.Skill Trident X Series 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOS
Samsung 840 Pro Western Digital Black (WD4001FZEX) Seagate Barracuda (ST2000DM001) Windows 7 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell UltraSharp (U2412M) Ducky Shine II (DK9008S2) SeaSonic Platinum (1000w) CaseLabs Mercury S3 
Mouse PadAudioOther
Razer Scarab KRK Rokit G2 (RP6G2) Logitech C920 HD Pro Webcam 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Athlon II X2 250 Gigabyte GA-MA785GMT-UD2H ATI Radeon HD 4200 (Onboard) 2GB Kingston ValueRAM DDR3 1333Mhz 
Optical DriveOSPowerCase
LITE-ON 24X iHAS424-9 Windows 7 Ultimate x32 Antec BP550 Plus Rosewill R101-P-BK 
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mITX Build
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5-4670K Asus Maximus VI Impact EVGA GTX 680 SuperClocked G.Skill Trident X Series 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveOS
Samsung 840 Pro Western Digital Black (WD4001FZEX) Seagate Barracuda (ST2000DM001) Windows 7 Ultimate 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell UltraSharp (U2412M) Ducky Shine II (DK9008S2) SeaSonic Platinum (1000w) CaseLabs Mercury S3 
Mouse PadAudioOther
Razer Scarab KRK Rokit G2 (RP6G2) Logitech C920 HD Pro Webcam 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Athlon II X2 250 Gigabyte GA-MA785GMT-UD2H ATI Radeon HD 4200 (Onboard) 2GB Kingston ValueRAM DDR3 1333Mhz 
Optical DriveOSPowerCase
LITE-ON 24X iHAS424-9 Windows 7 Ultimate x32 Antec BP550 Plus Rosewill R101-P-BK 
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post #78 of 112
Subbed.
post #79 of 112
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by thisischuck01 View Post
  1. I still recommend going the route of getting some RAM with lower latency.
    If I were you, I would get three sets of this.
    If you don't want to spend that much on RAM, I would go with a set of this. It runs at the same speed as the RAM you selected, only it does so at 1.5 volts (rather than 1.65) and cost quite a bit less.
  2. For your boot drive, I would get either this or this SSD, depending on how much space you need for your OS/programs. C300s have the highest speed in IOPS for 4K read right now, which means your programs and OS will be more responsive. For the rest of your drives, I would get either this or this, as I have had absolutely no problems with Mushkin and G.Skill in the past. In addition, they have some of the best reputations in the industries of both RAM and SSDs. Corsair RAM, on the other hand, is usually overpriced and doesn't perform as well as Mushkin and G.Skill for overclocking (at least this has been my experience.) I would expect the same from their SSDs.
  3. Concerning your sound card/headphones, I really wouldn't recommend going with the Xonar Xense bundle. The Sennheiser headphones bundled with the sound card really won't let you get all you can out of the sound card. I would still get the sound card, but instead of the bundled headphones I would pick up a pair of Sennheiser 555s/595s/558s/598s (depending on how much you want to spend) if you like your bass or Audio-Technica's ATH-AD700s/A700s (depending on whether you like open or closed cans) if you plan on doing a lot of gaming in the future. For a mic, I would get this.
  4. In respect to your mouse, I would recommend the G9X only if you have a "claw-grip." If you have more of a "palm-grip" I would recommend the Razer DeathAdder. Here is one if you're right handed, here is another if you're left handed.
  5. There really is no reason to buy a Razer Black Widow Ultimate over the regular Razer Black Widow. Also, if you don't need a back-lit keyboard, I would recommend getting something along the lines of a DAS. Create a thread asking about mechanical keyboards if you want to know which one will suit you the best (as I really don't know too much about the 10+ types of mechanical switches.)
  6. As I've said before, get a better type of thermal paste than Noctua NT-H1. Some IC7 Diamond would be great, as would some Shin-Etsu.
I think that's all the suggestions I have for now


Edit: Wow, that's a lot longer than I thought it would be. Lol.
1) I'll get three sets of the RAM that you suggested. It is surprisingly cheaper than the one I picked out.
2) I'll get one of these for the boot drive, and three of these for everything else. Since I won't be RAIDing, I won't be losing any space, thus I can purchase less hard drives. I'll get just under 1TB of space. I should only install the OS and important applications on my boot drive, right?
3) I'll stay with the ones I picked.
4) I'll stay with the G9X.
5) I'll stay with the Ultimate.
6) I read from many places that the IC7 Diamond is extremely hard to work with and apply. Even after heating it up in hot water, the microwave, or by other means, people still have trouble applying it. I'll stay with the NT-H1 because the IC7 Diamond only gains about 1 degree better performance, but the NT-H1 is much easier to work with. [/LIST]
post #80 of 112
Thread Starter 
Should I get some of these?
Actually, a better question would be, how many of each do I need for my cables?

Also, what color of these should I get? I like the looks of the white one. Be sure to click on them and check them out in the case.
Edited by Rlin - 1/25/11 at 8:42pm
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