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New Acer laptop battery will not charge

post #1 of 6
Thread Starter 
I'm working on an Acer Aspire 3000 laptop. The old battery would not charge, so I had the user purchase a new OEM battery. The laptop runs fine off the adapter, but the second it is unplugged the laptop shuts down.

The LED indicators show amber (charging) and if left for a few hours, show green (charged), but the laptop still shuts down immediately when the adapter is removed. (also, after getting a green indicator and unplugging the power, when I plug it back in the battery indicator goes back to amber for charging, NOT green)

I've cleaned the contacts on the battery and made sure that the DC jack is not loose or broken, which has been the issue I've run into fixing laptops in the past.

Anything I can eliminate before ordering ANOTHER battery?
    
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post #2 of 6
Check the connections of the battery to the laptop motherboard?
Make sure the battery actually works?
Reset CMOS?

If all fails, buy another battery, if the problem remains I think it would be a motherboard issue.

All the best,
jdcrispe95
    
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post #3 of 6
Check the AC Adapter, I have an Acer Apsier 3000 as well and I was having the same issue. I ordered an OEM AC Adapter and it started to charge the battery and hold a charge.
post #4 of 6
Dell vostro 1400. Battery wouldn't charge. User bought new original battery. Still doesn't charge but works from charger.
Charger itself isn't in perfect condition, so i took a wild guess and took from another user charger.
Now, battery charges and notebook works

Isolation in place where cord goes into adapter itself is slightly "damaged", more looks like it just slided off. Fun part notebook works with it just won't charge any battery

Edit: seems like not only i had this experience
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post #5 of 6
If all else fails, the recharge circuit on the motherboard may be dead ? Its a possibility.
post #6 of 6
Thread Starter 
Thank you all for your replies.

I'm going to attempt to test the brick first, because I don't have a real work area set up and taking laptops apart can be a PITA. I was under the impression that if it powered the laptop properly, there was no reason to test it. Would the issue be detectable with a multimeter?

Edit - Wow, adapter $7 shipped. At least it will be cheap if that's the issue.
Edited by _02 - 1/18/11 at 9:11am
    
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.5 (1.39v) Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P ASUS 5850 @ 880/1180 (1.118v) 4gb 1333mhz G.Skill DDR3 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
64gb Crucial M4 SSD 3x 250gb WD2500JD - RAID0 1tb WD1001FALS 1tb WD10EARS 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Pioneer DLDVD/CDRW Arctic Freezer Pro 64 Win 7 64bit Ultimate E2305 LG 23" LED 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch II Ninja Tenkeyless Fortron BlueStorm II 500w CM 690II Advanced Razer DeathAdder 
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generic Echo Miamidi PCI M-Audio BX5a Studio Monitors 
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X3 720 @ 3.5 (1.39v) Gigabyte GA-MA790XT-UD4P ASUS 5850 @ 880/1180 (1.118v) 4gb 1333mhz G.Skill DDR3 
Hard DriveHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
64gb Crucial M4 SSD 3x 250gb WD2500JD - RAID0 1tb WD1001FALS 1tb WD10EARS 
Optical DriveCoolingOSMonitor
Pioneer DLDVD/CDRW Arctic Freezer Pro 64 Win 7 64bit Ultimate E2305 LG 23" LED 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Filco Majestouch II Ninja Tenkeyless Fortron BlueStorm II 500w CM 690II Advanced Razer DeathAdder 
Mouse PadAudioAudio
generic Echo Miamidi PCI M-Audio BX5a Studio Monitors 
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