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Wait for PT nuke, or wing it with anti-freeze?

post #1 of 28
Thread Starter 
Ok guys, here's my problem.
I'm setting up a waterloop, and i'm gonna make a block out of aluminum and anodize it. It will not corrode. The other thing is that I was going to buy some PT nuke type stuff from aquatuning, but it's out of stock until the 28'th, and I really wouldn't like to wait.
The pump will be an eheim 600 compact, and a self made block and a copper pipe based radiator, so there's not much to lose, but would it be ok to run it with some green anti-freeze :/
I know it's "stupid", but since I'm in a hurry and it would be free, and have some nice properties should the anodized surface not be complete..
So, basically tell me some good reasons to why not use it.
Mostly I'm worried for the pump if it gets loaded more from the mix, if it became thicker.
    
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post #2 of 28
Distilled water is cheaper than AF...
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post #3 of 28
Just wait for the Nuke mate. Good water cooling is all about patience and precision. Don't rush anything. You can use just distilled water for a couple of days (1 to 1.5 weeks) until the PT Nuke arrives
Edited by Timechange01 - 1/18/11 at 9:36am
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post #4 of 28
If you are using any aluminum in your loop you need to have an additive to prevent galvanic corrosion.
    
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post #5 of 28
Don't mix metals, and if you do, run some sort of corrosion inhibitor. If you don't you'll have corrosion. Even with coatings like anodizing, I would run some sort of inhibitor. That said, I don't trust coatings at all, any microscopic scratch will start the process and it will eat away until the coating comes off in flakes. I just wouldn't count on the coating to protect your blocks. I'd run some corrosion inhibitor, but I can't really recommend one. I have experience with corroded blocks, but then I went all copper so I haven't had to use any additives. Antifreeze should work in a loop though, plenty of people use some formulation of it in their loops.

PT Nuke isn't going to help corrosion, it's a biocide, and as long as you order it and add it promptly, a few days shouldn't hurt assuming you're starting with clean parts and distilled water. Remember that stagnant water is going to bloom faster than if the loop is on, but a few days won't hurt. I usually don't add PT for a few days anyway just incase I have to drain the loop after construction for some reason.
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post #6 of 28
Why don't you just use distilled water until your biocide arrives?
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post #7 of 28
Thread Starter 
Well, yes i know that it's just a biocide, but I was hoping that I wouldn't need something for the corrosion, if i anodized the aluminum really well..
And umm all my wc stuff is in the same order so :/
If i could get some copper blocks for cheap here, it would be easy: wait for the nuke..
But now I might be adding the al blocks, so I might be needing the AF anyway..
And i can say this: the anodized surface is friggin hard. On the other hand it's risky business, any scratch and it's no use.
    
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post #8 of 28
Distilled water. A few drops of antifreeze. Wait a few days, add PT Nuke. You should be fine.
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post #9 of 28
Quote:
Originally Posted by Skiivari View Post
Well, yes i know that it's just a biocide, but I was hoping that I wouldn't need something for the corrosion, if i anodized the aluminum really well..
And umm all my wc stuff is in the same order so :/
If i could get some copper blocks for cheap here, it would be easy: wait for the nuke..
But now I might be adding the al blocks, so I might be needing the AF anyway..
And i can say this: the anodized surface is friggin hard. On the other hand it's risky business, any scratch and it's no use.
And the scratches can be smaller than you can see. All it takes is a little pinprick, you can't cheat chemistry If you have the option, I would go all copper. Or all AL for that matter.
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post #10 of 28
Good luck finding an aluminum radiator...
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