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psu dieing? :( - Page 2

post #11 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasting Away View Post
as referring to that, basically I would just stick the black in a ground wire on the 24 pin and the red on a 12v wire on the 24 pin and then turn on the computer?

and if it reads below 11 i need a new psu?


edit: model is sp-138 (it looks rather old..)

It doesnt have any sort of brand name or anything, its just black with a grey and green circle chart on the front. About the size of a pack of cigarettes.
Have the PC already turned on when you do this. No harm will be done and its much easier. You can have the black or negative probe on any of the common ground wires(black) and you will put the red on 1 of the 3 wires you wish to test for correct voltage. That guide tells you which red wires to check for which voltages. You are looking for correct voltage as well as any large ripples. Which means if the voltage level is going from 8 to 12 constantly etc.
post #12 of 25
Thread Starter 
I put it in while the 24 pin was in the motherboad, I didnt need to power anything on.
I'm not exactly sure how to read this thing so I'll leave it up to you guys.

Heres what it read when it was set to 10v DC



Heres what it read when it was set to 2.5v DC



and now I'm confused even more..
I just tried it with the computer on and with the multimeter set to 10v dc it was off the charts
I put it on 50v dc and it was wiggleing on the left side of the green 10 (see above)
Edited by Wasting Away - 1/20/11 at 8:05am
    
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post #13 of 25
First, the PSU needs to be running to test. What I would do is disconnnect everything that the PSU is connected to. Then use the "paperclip trick" (see pic with paperclip between green and any black pin on the ATX motherboadrd connector). This will trick the PSU so that it thinks its connected to a motherboard and the switch is on. The PSU fan should turn on like normal. Now you can use your meter to check between the different colored wires with their appropriate voltages and a black pin (see second pic below).

http://aphnetworks.com/lounge/turn_o...aperclip_trick



Edited by JasonCz - 1/20/11 at 8:20am
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post #14 of 25
Thread Starter 
well, I just stuck the prongs on the outside of the wires, like so:
    
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post #15 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasting Away View Post
well, I just stuck the prongs on the outside of the wires, like so:
OK, that works too!

To check the 12V pins, you need to set your meter on the 0-50V DC range. Then you use the scale on the meter that goes from 0 on the left to 50 on the right. Obviously, the needle should hover just above 10.

To check the 3.3 and 5v pins, you can set the meter to 0-10V DC range, and then look at the appropriate scale that goes from 0 on the left to 10 on the right.
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post #16 of 25
Thread Starter 
alright, so I've basically mastered this little device.

by the looks it, with the computer on and the multimeter set to 50v DC it is between 10-11 with an occasional jump to around 9-9.5

EDIT: but it's weird though.. when it does do the 9-9.5 jump the gpu turns off the red lights and goes green just like as if it would start up normal, but then the red comes back on the the fan turns on full blast again.

it almost seems like to me that it wants to start up but when it tries it uses up the little juice that the psu is giving (giving the 9-9.5 jump) and then realized it cant so it just craps itself and goes back to the beginning.
Edited by Wasting Away - 1/20/11 at 9:07am
    
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post #17 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasting Away View Post
alright, so I've basically mastered this little device.

by the looks it, with the computer on it is between 10-11 with an occasional jump to around 9-9.5

EDIT: but it's weird though.. when it does do the 9-9.5 jump the gpu turns off the red lights and goes green just like as if it would start up normal, but then the red comes back on the the fan turns on full blast again.

it almost seems like to me that it wants to start up but when it tries it uses up the little juice that the psu is giving (giving the 9-9.5 jump) and then realized it cant so it just craps itself and goes back to the beginning.
I would say it was a bad PSU. 10 volts is bad enough and with it jumping down to 9 that is terrible.
post #18 of 25
Thread Starter 
i checked the thing again and I realized that I was going by what the shadow was on, which was lower than what it was really.. It didnt even hit me that there was shadow..

it was at that same moment that I looked at the hex code on my motherboard and it read "88" which basically means that I need an RMA

the thing is, when I initially installed that board two years ago thats what it read and I had no problems with it. I tried the video card in another computer and it started up fine.

are there any ways I can test my mobo without taking it out of the case?
    
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post #19 of 25
Quote:
Originally Posted by Wasting Away View Post
i checked the thing again and I realized that I was going by what the shadow was on, which was lower than what it was really.. It didnt even hit me that there was shadow..

it was at that same moment that I looked at the hex code on my motherboard and it read "88" which basically means that I need an RMA

the thing is, when I initially installed that board two years ago thats what it read and I had no problems with it. I tried the video card in another computer and it started up fine.

are there any ways I can test my mobo without taking it out of the case?
oh ok I see. Well i cant really think of any other way to test the motherboard besides replacing it. I guess go with the RMA and good luck.
post #20 of 25
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Timlander View Post
oh ok I see. Well i cant really think of any other way to test the motherboard besides replacing it. I guess go with the RMA and good luck.
would I still be able to get an RMA after this long?
    
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