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High temps with new WC loop - Why?

post #1 of 23
Thread Starter 
hey there OCN, finally got my build up and running, but im really not happy with my temps.



With my i7 950 at 3.69 ghz @ 1.3v, 20 mins of prime95 small ffts give me coretemps of:
72 71 73 69

My loops consists of a Swiftech Apogee XT waterblock, Laing D5 variable pump, an XSPC dual bay res with pump inside, an XSPC rx360 rad, 3 Scythe Gentle typhoon fans pulling air in from the top. Running distilled water + silver.
Using OCZ freeze thermal paste.

Loop goes: Radiator -> waterblock -> res/pump -> back to radiator

A couple of mates have tried to help me, one suggested that I drain and re-route my loop as: pump/res -> waterblock -> radiator -> back to pump/res.

Cheers
Jack
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post #2 of 23
Did you make sure to get all of those pesky air bubbles out?

Also, did you seat properly and flush out your rad and block before hand?
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post #3 of 23
shouldnt it go
res/pump > cpu block > radiator > res/pump? and yer all air bubbles out?
post #4 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by bfeng91 View Post
Did you make sure to get all of those pesky air bubbles out?

Also, did you seat properly and flush out your rad and block before hand?
I flushed out the radiator with distilled water. I didnt flush the waterblock, i wasnt aware that you had to.
Interms of bleeding, i think i got the bubbles out, but its hard to tell with black tubing. I filled up the res, turning the pump on and waiting till the water level dropped abit and then stopping pump, filling up again. Heaps of bubbles came out as you can imagine, but im not sure if i got all of them. I tilted the case slightly every way and ran pump for a couple hours when i had finished filling.

Ive reseated the block aswell, no change really.
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post #5 of 23
Tilting slightly won't get the bubbles out. Your rad is up top, like mine, so bubbles will stay in the rad unless you make it so that the bubbles are forced out of the outlet of the rad. When I was bleeding, I literally took my case, shook it real hard, and turned it every which way. This dislodged some fairly large air pockets.

Also, you can tap your tubes with a pencil to dislodge some bubbles that are clinging to the tubes. Even large bubbles can get stuck to the tubing unless you turn it in weird directions, especially in bends. Just keep listening for that "woosh" sound little bubbles make when passing through your pump. If shaking and tilting and tapping won't do anything, you're fully bled then I guess.
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post #6 of 23
Change the top rad fans to push air out of the case. Change the rear fan to intake cold air from outside the case.

The 700/800D stock fans are terrible. You'll want to replace the fan at the bottom of the case with a solid fan to help intake cold air.

Side note: 1.3v is kind of high for your cpu and mhz. You should be able to run lower volts than that. Give it a shot..
Edited by mhaneline - 1/21/11 at 12:52am
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post #7 of 23
Hmm, seeing as how you've reseated it with no change in temperatures, this is a tough one. And I am currently running 1.4V (don't ask, long stability testing story) and I am ~60C with ambients being 16C. This is on load because I am currently folding.

Based on the Swiftech logo on your waterblock and the three screws, your inlet/outlet is fine. Just compared it to mine and it is identical. My current loop is as follows:

Res/Pump > Radiator > CPU > Res/Pump

1. This may be a dumb question, but did you remove the plastic from the bottom of the CPU block?
2. What are your ambient temps?
3. Is the radiator dusty?
4. Are all your fans working? And if I read that right, you are doing a push/pull radiator into the case from the top. Are all the fans facing one way? Misinterpreted the pictures. I am now assuming the fans are pulling air from the radiator into the case. Have you tried pushing air into the radiator and out of the case? How fast are your fans?
Edited by Blue Marker - 1/21/11 at 12:33am
post #8 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackolantern View Post
Loop goes: Radiator -> waterblock -> res/pump -> back to radiator

A couple of mates have tried to help me, one suggested that I drain and re-route my loop as: pump/res -> waterblock -> radiator -> back to pump/res.

Cheers
Jack
Well whoever suggested that is mistaken. You see, every degree matters in a way, so going from the D5 to the cooling block is not a good idea. The pump, no matter which one you use, will get warm during operation. Some of this heat gets transferred into the water, and then to the cooling block, which is why your original setup is perfectly fine - going from the pump to the rad then to the cooling components.

However, your temps do seem very high, I get those at 4.3 GHz with 1.47 vcore. I would guess that there is still air in your radiator. Another theory would be that there is an airbubble stuck in your cpu block - this has happened to me before. CPU and GPU blocks tend to not wnat to give up the air pockets trapped inside them Tilting the case in various directions during operation cleared it for me.

Also - have you taken off the cpu block and looked at the pattern on the back from the thermal paste? Is it spread correctly, covering all the cores?


Also - what is the temperature of the water in your res? put a thermometer in and measure. That will tell you if the issue is your water heating up too much. If the temp is below 30 degrees, or around 10 degrees above the ambient room temperature, then the water temp is not the issue causing the high cpu temp!
Edited by sunnyville - 1/21/11 at 1:15am
    
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post #9 of 23
Thread Starter 
update:
tried bleeding loop again, tipped case every way then took the cap off and ran the pump, repeat etc etc.
There are still plenty of small bubbles in my res and it does make abit of noise (but not much). I dont see bubbles going into or out of the pump though.
1 new 140mm fans on the intake down bottom and 1 exhaust.
Temps havent changed much, was loading @ 68-69 (3.69ghz 1.3v)max but the ambient was much lower than previously.

any more ideas? Im wondering if the pump/res combo ive got has anything to do with it, making it not want to bleed properly.
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post #10 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackolantern View Post
update:
tried bleeding loop again, tipped case every way then took the cap off and ran the pump, repeat etc etc.
There are still plenty of small bubbles in my res and it does make abit of noise (but not much). I dont see bubbles going into or out of the pump though.
1 new 140mm fans on the intake down bottom and 1 exhaust.
Temps havent changed much, was loading @ 68-69 (3.69ghz 1.3v)max but the ambient was much lower than previously.

any more ideas? Im wondering if the pump/res combo ive got has anything to do with it, making it not want to bleed properly.
change your top rad's fans to push, and change the fan at the rear of the case to an intake. I would also try another re-seat, as your temps are indicative of a bad mount. I would expect your idle temps to be around 35c and your load temps to be around 50c with a good mount and good TIM spread.

When you re-seat, check the TIM spread to see if there is a large gap in TIM. If that's the case, the mount was uneven.
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