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High temps with new WC loop - Why? - Page 2

post #11 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackolantern;12123162 
update:
tried bleeding loop again, tipped case every way then took the cap off and ran the pump, repeat etc etc.
There are still plenty of small bubbles in my res and it does make abit of noise (but not much). I dont see bubbles going into or out of the pump though.
1 new 140mm fans on the intake down bottom and 1 exhaust.
Temps havent changed much, was loading @ 68-69 (3.69ghz 1.3v)max but the ambient was much lower than previously.

any more ideas? Im wondering if the pump/res combo ive got has anything to do with it, making it not want to bleed properly.

Do you really need 1.3v for 3.69GHz? It doesn't take me much Vcore to go to 3.69GHz on my i7 920 D0. Try lowering the vcore down to 1.23v or 1.24v. You definitely would see some temp decrease.
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post #12 of 23
I had the same exact problem 2 days ago.

what worked for me was turning the D5 up to full speed, run it 5 minutes or so, turning it off, back to speed 1, turning it on, gradually crank it up to full speed again and that for 5 times (in my case).
All the air pockets get blasted away that way.

This got my temps from 65 degrees idle to 30 degrees idle in literally 15 minutes lol
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post #13 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Th0m0_202;12086482 
shouldnt it go
res/pump > cpu block > radiator > res/pump? and yer all air bubbles out?

Nah I have mine going from res/pump to radiator and water is anti bubbliness
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post #14 of 23
it doesnt matter where the radiator is, after time the water will reach the same temp through out the loop so your setup is fine. the only thing i can think of is what others have said: air bubbles in the radiator. because the barbs are facing down due to the internal mounted radiator, it is going to be difficult to get all the air bubbles out.

i guess external rad mounting does have 1 advantage(although it is hiddious to look at)

this may not sound safe to do, but first be absolutley sure there is NO LEAKS in the loop. fill your res 100% to the top. unplug the power to everything in your rig, use jumper on mobo power connector to power your pump. carefully flip your computer upside down (yes upside down). turn the pump on, and rock the rig back and forth and tilt it every which way.

reason for this, air bubbles float to the top, and your barbs are at the bottom. so the air bubbles are fighting gravity to get out. this will get all the air out. if you actually decide to do this, please be careful.
Edited by AliceInChains - 1/24/11 at 4:07pm
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post #15 of 23
Im guessing its a mixture of Vcore and QPI, both will add heat when turned up. Having your ram overclocked like that im guessing you have a fair amount of QPI voltage, i manually set mine to 1.35, my board increases it to 1.47 if left on auto.

Also my chip only takes 1.30 volts to get to 4ghz, i can safely run 3.6 1.23volts.
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post #16 of 23
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Lerkah;12128760 
Im guessing its a mixture of Vcore and QPI, both will add heat when turned up. Having your ram overclocked like that im guessing you have a fair amount of QPI voltage, i manually set mine to 1.35, my board increases it to 1.47 if left on auto.

Also my chip only takes 1.30 volts to get to 4ghz, i can safely run 3.6 1.23volts.

The voltage etc isnt the problem, i still have really high temps at stock speed. At stock i load at 66 - 68c

I will try the pump speed trick as was suggested by ericie, if that doesnt work then Alice in chains's idea is next.
At least after those, if it still has high temps, then it must be the block not seated right?
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post #17 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackolantern;12132913 
I will try the pump speed trick as was suggested by ericie, if that doesnt work then Alice in chains's idea is next.
At least after those, if it still has high temps, then it must be the block not seated right?

It indeed could be that the block isn't seated right, but my thoughts still go out to the air pockets.

What allso could be so if both aren't the problem that the block is full of gunk.
There could have been some dust, flux, or w/e left in the hoses or radiator that is now stuck under your Jet Plate, which makes the loop so restrictive it hardly cools (just a thought).

Was the block / radiator second handed or new?
(if they were second handed the possibility is very high that there's gunk in there biggrin.gif)
Edited by ericie - 1/25/11 at 1:20am
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post #18 of 23
I would always go from pump-cpu block first as you have max pressure in the cpu block. Because you are going to the rad first you will have a big pressure drop especially becuase it is mounted higher than the reservoir it's a big space to fill. So with your pump on low i doubt you get much flow at all. Where's your fill port? If your using the fillport on the reservoir you are not going to be filling the system completely. The fillport needs to be the highest point ideally to get maximum fill so there is no air in the system.
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post #19 of 23
Thread Starter 
well i couldnt really get at the pump properly to try ericles idea, but i filled up the res completely and then flipped the PC over and let it run for a while. Plenty of air came out, but actually getting it to stay in the res is a pain in the ass due to the reservoir design. The intake goes around a tube that is aimed at the pump intake, so the bubbles have very little chance of escaping into the res but i think i got most of it. When i got alot of air bubbles the pump just pushed em straight back into the loop which was a pain, so i kept stopping and starting the pump.
Although when i was carrying it back to my room i heard the water moving in the rad, so i dunno, might have to try again.

Water is so much harder than bolting on a heatsink :@

Temps havent changed really, maybe 2-3c lower.
Im pretty stumped, the block is on as tight as i can get it with a screwdriver and my fingers.
All the parts are brand new.
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post #20 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackolantern;12134737 
well i couldnt really get at the pump properly to try ericles idea, but i filled up the res completely and then flipped the PC over and let it run for a while. Plenty of air came out, but actually getting it to stay in the res is a pain in the ass due to the reservoir design. The intake goes around a tube that is aimed at the pump intake, so the bubbles have very little chance of escaping into the res but i think i got most of it. When i got alot of air bubbles the pump just pushed em straight back into the loop which was a pain, so i kept stopping and starting the pump.
Although when i was carrying it back to my room i heard the water moving in the rad, so i dunno, might have to try again.

Water is so much harder than bolting on a heatsink :@

Temps havent changed really, maybe 2-3c lower.
Im pretty stumped, the block is on as tight as i can get it with a screwdriver and my fingers.
All the parts are brand new.


It's not about having the block on super tight, it's about having even pressure between the 4 mounting screws. Did you remove the block and look at the TIM spread pattern to see if there were any gaps?
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