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High temps with new WC loop - Why? - Page 3

post #21 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackolantern;12134737 
well i couldnt really get at the pump properly to try ericles idea, but i filled up the res completely and then flipped the PC over and let it run for a while. Plenty of air came out, but actually getting it to stay in the res is a pain in the ass due to the reservoir design. The intake goes around a tube that is aimed at the pump intake, so the bubbles have very little chance of escaping into the res but i think i got most of it. When i got alot of air bubbles the pump just pushed em straight back into the loop which was a pain, so i kept stopping and starting the pump.
Although when i was carrying it back to my room i heard the water moving in the rad, so i dunno, might have to try again.

Water is so much harder than bolting on a heatsink :@

Temps havent changed really, maybe 2-3c lower.
Im pretty stumped, the block is on as tight as i can get it with a screwdriver and my fingers.
All the parts are brand new.

I have the same Resevoir pump combo. I don't use the filler in the res because like you said its a pain in the ass. I have a separate filler port tee'd off that is the highest point so you can fill it completely and top it up during the bleeding process.
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post #22 of 23
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jackolantern View Post
well i couldnt really get at the pump properly to try ericles idea, but i filled up the res completely and then flipped the PC over and let it run for a while. Plenty of air came out, but actually getting it to stay in the res is a pain in the ass due to the reservoir design. The intake goes around a tube that is aimed at the pump intake, so the bubbles have very little chance of escaping into the res but i think i got most of it. When i got alot of air bubbles the pump just pushed em straight back into the loop which was a pain, so i kept stopping and starting the pump.
Although when i was carrying it back to my room i heard the water moving in the rad, so i dunno, might have to try again.

Water is so much harder than bolting on a heatsink :@

Temps havent changed really, maybe 2-3c lower.
Im pretty stumped, the block is on as tight as i can get it with a screwdriver and my fingers.
All the parts are brand new.
If you hear water sloshing around in your rad, that's a sure sign of air bubbles. Once you fully bleed, your rad should be completely filled with water. The only sloshing should be heard from the res.

I know it's a pain to bleed, especially if you're using black tubes (even UV blue was difficult to see bubbles in), but you gotta keep shaking the entire case in every direction possible. I think you've discovered my favorite method of making sure bubbles don't go back into the loop (stopping the pump before the bubble gets into the pump) for bigger bubbles.

Also, any kinks in the loop?

Order of the loop doesn't matter, no matter what people say. Over time, the system WILL come to equilibrium. You just need to make sure that you have the shortest tubing possible with the most gradual bends possible and no kinks.
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post #23 of 23
Thread Starter 
well ill try and bleed it again in the next week or so when the house isn't so hectik. Damn this WC business is hard.

My temps have definetly improved. Ive acheived 4.2ghz stable 1.375v. Max temps were 75c on the hottest cores, but they only touched that, then went back down to 72-73 most of the time. Im pretty freakin happy
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