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galaxy 9400gt 1gb v-mod - not successful. My fault - Page 6

post #51 of 65
Just be careful with a hotter iron. They are easier to get stuff to stick, but if you hold it to some of those pads to long, it will burn the pad off.
    
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post #52 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PizzaMan View Post
Just be careful with a hotter iron. They are easier to get stuff to stick, but if you hold it to some of those pads to long, it will burn the pad off.
will do =]
    
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post #53 of 65
Thread Starter 
:/ carnt seam to get the resistor back on.


90% because the tip isnt hot enough??? ive cleaned it till its shiny? :/ and works for like 1 soder if that. then...
and 10% cause never done anything so small haha
    
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post #54 of 65
Thread Starter 
ok got the resitor back on. not touching anything elese ect.

still reading same volts.
i noticed 1 of the legs from where the vcore would go is missing. :/ ***

carnt get it to stick. any way to fix it? >.>
    
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post #55 of 65
Got some pics?
    
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post #56 of 65
what are you refering to as the "Vcore"? if you mean the POT(variable resistor) so long as its one of the end pins you fine. if you use both end pins on the POT then it acts like a normal resistor at its max resistance. to make it variable you use the center pin and one outer.

A tip for soldering those small wires to a small spot is to, strip back a little more insulation than you need, then put a dab of solder on the tip of the wire. Get some tweezers or needle nose plyers(tweezers preferable) hold the wire and heat up the wire just a little away from the end and stick it to your point, leave it there long enough to ensure to melt the solder on the board so you dont get a cold solder. much cleaner than trying to stick the iron all down in amongst it when dealing with tight space.

If your card is still over volting after putting that little capacitor back(resistor as you called it) make sure you have good contact and that you didint bridge solder over or under it.

Also factory solder on most boards nowadays are a PIA. melt some of your solder in with the oem crap and its alot easier to work with.

Post pics of your issues like the pizzdude said.
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post #57 of 65
Thread Starter 
the resistor looks fine. not touching anywhere.. cheaked all that ( might move 1 of them over abit to be 120% sure. )



yeh i know i fail (:
the resistor(capacitor?) is connected via 2 wires off the board. i couldnt hold it down n solder it


looks so much cleaner irl though haha like its a more silver. not brown O.O
    
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post #58 of 65
You shouldn't have resoldered that missing part with long wires. As I told you before it's not a resistor but a capacitor.

The burnt pin was probably connected to (one of) the capacitors around(C76, C78, CP31).
Do you still have a high-res version of this pic?
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8052184_n.jpg
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post #59 of 65
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by mAlkAv!An View Post
You shouldn't have resoldered that missing part with long wires. As I told you before it's not a resistor but a capacitor.

The burnt pin was probably connected to (one of) the capacitors around(C76, C78, CP31).
Do you still have a high-res version of this pic?
http://sphotos.ak.fbcdn.net/hphotos-..._8052184_n.jpg
proably best one i got.


or how it is atm?

EDIT: WTH.. its only 800 x 600.. when took it. and my one on my pc is 3000 x 2300 :/
    
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post #60 of 65
That might be to small... I'm really just guessing here. Looks like the Pin is connected to R575 and CP31. If so you would just need to solder a very short wire from the burnt pin to the 0 resistor.
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