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What Rad size is good for my sig rig.

post #1 of 5
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For my core i7 and dual 6870's in a haf X. im thinking a good 360 rad on top.

using a Rasa 360 rad kit with 2 extra GPU block's.

Opinion's? would it work?

i NEVER even touched water cooling gear.

but i can manage, as in i did a lil research so im a noob

Also, Compression fitting's or clamps?
Edited by Yoko Littner - 1/24/11 at 12:45am
    
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post #2 of 5
A 360 rad is fine for your cpu + gpus. I would definitely recommend building a custom loop, so you aren't stuck with the terrible pump in that kit. As for fittings, I usually recommend that beginners use barbs + clamps or 1/2" barbs with 7/16" tubing, because the vast majority of leaks happen with compression fittings. If you feel confident that you won't make a mistake, compression fittings look very nice. Just make absolutely certain you cut the tubing straight and slide the tubing all the way to the end of the fitting before tightening the collar securely.
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post #3 of 5
I'd get the XSPC RX360 kit, the pump is more than enough for what you want to do. I'd stick with barbs, they are the easiest to use and cost a lot less than compression fittings. Plus, the kit already comes with 6 of them.

Anyways, this is what I would get:

XSPC RX360 Kit
EK FC6870 Nickel/Acetal x2
EK Dual Parallel Bridge
EK-FC Link R48X0/58X0 x2
1/2" Barbed Fitting x2
10 feet of 7/16" ID 5/8" OD Primochill LRT tubing - your choice of color
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post #4 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by charliehorse55 View Post
I'd get the XSPC RX360 kit, the pump is more than enough for what you want to do. I'd stick with barbs, they are the easiest to use and cost a lot less than compression fittings. Plus, the kit already comes with 6 of them.

Anyways, this is what I would get:

XSPC RX360 Kit
EK FC6870 Nickel/Acetal x2
EK Dual Parallel Bridge
EK-FC Link R48X0/58X0 x2
1/2" Barbed Fitting x2
10 feet of 7/16" ID 5/8" OD Primochill LRT tubing - your choice of color
Silver Kill Coil
I'd go with this recommendation, it really is spot on. The only thing he hasn't mentioned is that because you'll be using 7/16" ID tubing with 1/2" ID barbs, you will need to heat the ends of the tubing in order to fit them on. 1/2" is slightly larger than 7/16" (anyone who did age 8 Maths knows this) and dipping the ends in hot water for 10 seconds or so will loosen and expand the tubing to allow it to squeeze onto the 1/2" barbs. When the tubing cools, it will form an air-tight seal around the barb, eliminating the need for clamps.
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post #5 of 5
Quote:
Originally Posted by jNSK View Post
I'd go with this recommendation, it really is spot on. The only thing he hasn't mentioned is that because you'll be using 7/16" ID tubing with 1/2" ID barbs, you will need to heat the ends of the tubing in order to fit them on. 1/2" is slightly larger than 7/16" (anyone who did age 8 Maths knows this) and dipping the ends in hot water for 10 seconds or so will loosen and expand the tubing to allow it to squeeze onto the 1/2" barbs. When the tubing cools, it will form an air-tight seal around the barb, eliminating the need for clamps.
Although, you will probably still want to use clamps, just to be safe

A 360 should be just fine for your build. The RX360 is a great radiator. If you wanted to add more cooling capacity, you could add a 120 or 140 radiator where the rear case fan is very easily too. But, you probably don't really need to.
    
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