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Project Scout - Page 2

post #11 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by ph10m;12154459 
I found it best to just use the h50 in the back as exhaust with a side-panel fan blowing fresh air just at the exhaust-fan, pretty much the same effect.

Yeah but then all the air flow is messed up in the case because hot air is being blown in and it will heat up the rest of the components.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rick Arter;12154847 
This works and is easiest but if you can fit in up front in 5.25 bays that would be cool.

Thats was i want to do but it just wont fit frown.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk;12154927 
You could try the top blow hole.

But then i still have the dilemma of hot air being blown into the case.

But i have just become aware that i don't have many options do i?
post #12 of 34
Why? Just turn the fan around and have it exhaust out the top. The other thing you could do is what I'm doing in my Scout. I have a 120 rad on the back as exhaust and my top fans as an intake blowing cool air on it. You could fab up a air tunnel in the front and mount it to that. Or you could just ditch the storage bay and put it in the front.
Edited by GoodInk - 1/26/11 at 5:53pm
Potentia et Decor
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Project Trooper
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
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WD Black WD Green Asus BR XSPC RX 360 
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G15 CM 850 SilentPro CM Scout Logitech MX 518 
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Potentia et Decor
(16 items)
 
 
Project Trooper
(7 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Black WD Green Asus BR XSPC RX 360 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
XSPC Rasa CPU Block EK-Reservoir/Pump Combo DCP 4.0 Windows 7 64bit LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Cooler Master 850watt SilentPro Lian Li A70F Logitech G9 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
WD Black  XSPC Rasa RS240 kit plus RX120 Win 7 64 LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
G15 CM 850 SilentPro CM Scout Logitech MX 518 
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post #13 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk;12156181 
Why? Just turn the fan around and have it exhaust out the top. The other thing you could do is what I'm doing in my Scout. I have a 120 rad on the back as exhaust and my top fans as an intake blowing cool air on it. You could fab up a air tunnel in the front and mount it to that. Or you could just ditch the storage bay and put it in the front.

Well i have had a good idea. Here it is.

The plan would be to have the 140mm fan on the top blow hole and then have an L shaped fan duct, so air gets drawn in the top blow hole and gets funneled through the fan duct and the other end of the fan duct is connected to the 120mm push pull H50 which is then attached to the back of the pc. I hope you understand but if you don't i will try and make a picture.
post #14 of 34
Thread Starter 
I have just found a good example, but i would probably try and make my own better looking one.

154806d1273476141-noctua-d14-fans-1-vs-2-pc-flexible-air-duct-2.jpg
post #15 of 34
Thread Starter 
Or maybe even a heat chamber like Bigfatwily's Scout mod. But in Perspex but up by the top 2 blow holes.

Quote:
Originally Posted by bigfatwilly;11606467 
dsc02495x.jpg
post #16 of 34
Potentia et Decor
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Project Trooper
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Black WD Green Asus BR XSPC RX 360 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
XSPC Rasa CPU Block EK-Reservoir/Pump Combo DCP 4.0 Windows 7 64bit LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Cooler Master 850watt SilentPro Lian Li A70F Logitech G9 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
WD Black  XSPC Rasa RS240 kit plus RX120 Win 7 64 LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
G15 CM 850 SilentPro CM Scout Logitech MX 518 
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Potentia et Decor
(16 items)
 
 
Project Trooper
(7 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
Hard DriveHard DriveOptical DriveCooling
WD Black WD Green Asus BR XSPC RX 360 
CoolingCoolingOSMonitor
XSPC Rasa CPU Block EK-Reservoir/Pump Combo DCP 4.0 Windows 7 64bit LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
Logitech G15 Cooler Master 850watt SilentPro Lian Li A70F Logitech G9 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 750 ASUS Maximus III Formula Powercolor LCS 5870  OCZ Reaper 
Hard DriveCoolingOSMonitor
WD Black  XSPC Rasa RS240 kit plus RX120 Win 7 64 LG 27" Flatron W2753V 
KeyboardPowerCaseMouse
G15 CM 850 SilentPro CM Scout Logitech MX 518 
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post #17 of 34
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GoodInk;12167729 
You might want to look at this

http://www.overclock.net/10483939-post12165.html

Yeah i have seen that, its really good.

Look what i got in the post! Looks like i have some work to do on the weekend biggrin.gif

100_0933.jpg

It's clear but the protective film makes it look green.

Still no sign of my motherboard frown.gif
post #18 of 34
Thread Starter 
I have a picture update coming soon.

My motherboard is back, but im just testing for best cooling solutions. I have also made my window and im going to spray a frosty Republic of gamers logo onto the window and spray paint the floppy drive black so it matches the case.
Edited by Jamyy10 - 2/11/11 at 12:43pm
post #19 of 34
Thread Starter 
I have almost finished putting my scout back together now and my dads new PC wasn't working properly with his new chip so we swapped chips and his PC is working fine . So i have gone from an AMD Phenom 940 @ 3.1GHz to a 965 @ 3.4GHz!

I need to ask a question. I want to have my cold cathodes on the side panel because they light the case a lot better. But i don't like having to plug in and unplug stuff thats on the side panel. So does anyone know of a little device that you can attach to the chassis so that when you put the side panel on it makes the circuit complete and the cathodes switch on..

If that didn't make much sense then picture an alarm system in a house. And on the door it has a magnet on the top of the frame and on the moving part of the door. Both magnets make contact when the door is shut (the case side panel is on and the cathodes would be on). But when the door is open there is no contact between the magnets (the side panel is off and the cathodes are off obviously).

I hope that made sense, because if it doesn't i may have to use my epic paint skills

If not does anyone have any idea on what parts i can use to make it happen?
post #20 of 34
The magnet idea would be pretty simple to do, just connect a wire to one magnet, then the other wire that is connected to your cathodes to the other magnet. Connect to case and side panel using rubber and make them close enough to touch when the side panel is on. Viola smile.gif

If you dont understand that, I will have to get MY epic paint skills out tongue.gif
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The Beast
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