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FREE IPS monitor!!!

post #1 of 13
Thread Starter 
wave2.gif decided to join, long time lurker of this subforum!

Dell 2005FPW

I just picked up my neighbor's IPS display for free(he said it was broken) and I'm pretty sure the inverter board is bad. Or at least a capacitor or two. Instead of writing a paragraph describing scenarios and how the monitor reacts, I'll do a list to make it easier:

Cold Boot: first time on after a few hours/days

100% brightness:
- works for a few minutes before going dark

0% brightness(actually still pretty bright):
- works for 45 minutes before going dark

_____________________

After cold boot(turning the monitor off and on right away to start the backlight again):

100% brightness
- works for 1-3 seconds before going dark

0%
- works for 5-10 minutes


The backlight shows no faults. It has a constant brightness, but the power is cut for some reason. There is a little whizzing noise when it first fires up but it goes away.

In all occasions the screen works. I can shine a light on the display and see the desktop and windows etc.

I took it apart and the power board looks fine except for a questionable diode(looks a bit singed, but a faulty diode in this part of the board would cause power problems with the display part aswell). There are no bulging capacitors anywhere, not on the PSU board and not on the logic board. The power supply is in one unit instead of having a separate low voltage board, high voltage and logic.

What could be causing the problem that I can't see? How do I test components with a multimeter? When I went to discharge the capacitors with a lamp they had no charge at all. Or at least there was no spark, which was unusual. So I'm thinking maybe loose solder somewhere is causing a leak and the capacitors don't like that(hence the squealing/whizzing on start).

What do you think?
Edited by trinstac - 2/3/11 at 2:02pm
post #2 of 13
Inverter sounds like a good choice to try to me, they usually run about $50 depending on the model and where you look, just make sure its compatible and toss it in, for $50, its not to bad of an idea to try.
    
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post #3 of 13
Thread Starter 
I looked all over ebay but this monitor is from 2006 and there are no inverter boards available, just capacitor kits(ads are misleading lol, pictured the whole board).

I just noticed YP20106D on the board and googling that showed some results. I'll see what I can come up with.
Edited by trinstac - 1/26/11 at 1:01pm
post #4 of 13
Thread Starter 
I brought the board to an electrical engineer today and he said to just get a new board. But I can't find one online. I guess I'm out of luck.
post #5 of 13
Watch for one with a broken screen that'll be the easiest way to get it. Optionally if you can find the part number for the inverter you would be able to find one easily.
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post #6 of 13
The capacitor replacement kit (which should be less than $10, imho) could fix the inverter board if thats a common issue with that model of monitor; however, can you provide front/back shots of the PCB in question, I'll see if I can rouse up a replacement.
    
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post #7 of 13
Thread Starter 
I have a really good surplus store nearby, I'll go there tomorrow and get the required capacitors. +rep
Edited by trinstac - 1/27/11 at 10:32am
post #8 of 13
Thread Starter 
I'm sorry for another post but I have good news. I was looking on the manufacturer website and I spotted an odd similarity, there are two 20.1" models of the PSU on the LIPS tab.

http://www.yuyang.co.kr/eng/product/psu.asp

the 75W one is mine. The 70w one is available for cheap on the internet. Both are identical circuits except the other one has two logic board outputs and the CCFL power is separated into 6 2-pin connections instead of 2 4-pin and 2 2-pin connections. The "TV" board is used in the LG 20LS7D model. Since this IPS panel is LG|Phillips, I assume it will work just fine.

So theoretically if I buy this "YP20106DTV" model (vs my "YP20106D" board) and cut the CCFL connectors in half, it will power the monitor just fine. And if needed, I can short the on/off pin on the second connector, or even wire them in parallel.

I'll report back on Saturday if I fix this board, and if not I'll place an order for the slightly different model. Either way, this monitor will live on!

Edit: another option is to reassemble the monitor with the CCFL wires exposed. Then I can have the 70w board power just the CCFLs once it comes in. I'd need another universal power cord, and the extra inverter would be strapped to the back of the monitor lol
Edited by trinstac - 1/26/11 at 11:08pm
post #9 of 13
Thread Starter 
Well I replaced capacitors in the inverter (3x 47uF 25v, 2x 470uF 25v) because the 470uF feed the CCFLs, and those 3 47uF capacitors are near resistors and transistors right before the circuit hits the AC/DC oscillator. Those would be the most sensitive to changes because they have to operate at the right frequency or it will not generate the high current through the 7 transformers.

I assembled the monitor without the bezel and turned it on. More hissing... but this time I could pinpoint where the sound was coming from. It was coming from the top 3 CCFL lamps.

That hissing sound was 5000 volts sparking from one CCFL to the other. It looks like someone dropped the display because it had a crack in the 3rd layer inner frame.

the frames are like

frame --> smaller perimiter frame -->plastic inner frame

the plastic one was broken. But anyways on the top 3 ccfl lamps it had burnt ends(lower voltage end) that eroded the insulating spacer rubber cap. The wires were disintegrated at that point so I had to strip the 3 wires, file the solder down and solder them back on(I have gone from 0 solder equipment, 0 skills to a workbench of soldering tools and mega skill). Then i wrapped each with a thin film of packing tape. Electrical tape is too thick so i used packing tape.

Luckily I knew all about the design of the LCD because I had studied that technical document the other night. I had to open the LCD and take out its core components. There is a white back sheet, a thin transparent sheet, then a giant plexiglass rectangle which is the same width of the three CCFLs(3 top , 3 bottom), two or three more films, and then finally on the front is the thin LCD.

The scary part is knowing that I am in a dust filled room with dust sensitive material. By the time I reassembeled it, I had accepted the fact that it would not work or it would look terrible because I realigned the inner components. The canned air seemed to have gotten it all out because the display still looks fabulous(I have not put the bezel on yet, it may be crooked lol)

So far it has been running 100% brightness for at least 20 minutes. Before it would have not lasted 3 seconds.

Cause: shorted CCFL endings trigger OCP(Overcurrent protection) in the inverter circuit, and powers down the CCFLs for safety.

Cost: $45 in soldering parts(iron, desoldering iron with pump, 60% rosin core solder, flux, desoldering braid), $9.66 in capacitors(I used 5 out of the 16 I purchased), ~$10 in gas.

Time: 20-30 hours work. 45 if including driving and researching on Google


Was it worth it? Eh, I got a $400-500 for $65 plus whatever I value my time as. And the soldering equipment will last me years. It was fun though, and now I know tons about circuits.

v0kw3.jpg
QeAvz.jpg
UdB7B.jpg
s4z1m.jpg

In the last one you can kind of see the burnt ends. I was usinga a phone camera so give me a break tongue.gif
Edited by trinstac - 2/3/11 at 1:36am
post #10 of 13
Nice work smile.gif. It's always good to see someone who isn't too chicken to open up the "user-unservicable" components of the computer and do something about them.
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