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Please help with how to bleed watercooling system or correct bleeding setup

post #1 of 10
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I have THOUGHT I bought all the right gear untill this happened can anyone help?? , I cant get the air to release from system, I have tried to bleed but am a noob with water cooling, and every time I run it I am to scared to do for more than 3 hours because I don't believe the levels are changing at all it does not look like its bleeding properly, I am powering pump + fans by separate pc so my pc is not on when filling. I have a feeling its either bleeding or the sli connection or the fact I have bay resovouir or position of my T block drainage I have tried to bleed system but I cant get air out and get working. I have attached photos please help asap as I don't know what to do I heard you are supposed to run for a long time to let air go out so you can top up but because I am water cooling noob I don't know if its safe to run the way it is or if that's how to bleed. Is it a good idea to to leave it on continuasly for long time will that bleed it out I am just worried because were it exits the blocks there is masive air pocket and out of gpu blocks there is air on in/out of cpu block and pocket above radiator, air bubles and air pockets is that going to damage pump cause its not moving through when it hits that air pocket. the discharge never gets any were cause of pressure from air pockets I am stuck. Could it be the sli restricting it, is there better way for flow on my system let me know if you have any ideas how to completey bleed full instructions or if I should leave on or if I need diff parts
please review pics and let me know how to bleed so I can fill up and get rid of air bubbles / air pockets Thank you. I have followed all the instructions it filled up right the first time but now I have air pockets even if I pull apart and change hoses around and air it all out it still does same thing when you fill it up gets to that point on sli and air pockets I don't know what to do is there a better sli setup can I use angles and hoses would that fix it cause bleeding is not working or is there a bleeding kit you can buy or bleeding nozzle for systems like this I am stuck and cant find answers on forums Please Help Thank You.
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post #2 of 10
Unfortunately I cant see your supplied pics were im at so with that, I am at a loss. Typically speaking, you want your res/fill line at the highest point in the loop, going on (for lack of a better definition) the siphon principle, adding water to the res (at the highest point) or even a fill line will increase the weight of the water on the system and gravity will pull through the fluid.

The pump not in motion, will act as a brake, so once you have fluid in the system, powering on the pump (lots of people use a jumper or dummy plug) will open that part of the system and draw down the water from the res/fill line.

The theory is that by pump pressure and water weight, the air will be compressed enough to flow or break down into ever increasing smaller bubbles through the turbulant blocks to entrain with the fluid.

At which time by cycling the pump on and off, the air will work its way up the fill line and back into the atmosphere.

Some tricks of the trade include, rocking the case back and forth/to and fro to move the air enough to make it to an outlet line. Some guys use a little vacuum pump to draw the fluid through. Some rads have bleeder screws on the plenum chamber which aids in bleeding/leeching-deliberately running fluid out of the system so that it carries air with it.

To really make some headway its possible to burn a couple hours, even at that, as much as a week or more to get every single bubble out.

You really dont want to leave the fill/res open to the air while you do this, as it will have a tendency to draw air down into the loop, just open it to add water (which replaces the air) and close it back, and repeat the on/off rock back n' forth dance.

Try not to run the pump while its on its side, a couple degrees one way or the other is not that big of a deal, but they have limits.

Ill check this thread later and take a look at the pics.
 
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post #3 of 10
fill it up and let the pump run (without powering up the pc), you will need to jumper the correct pins on the power supply to do this or use a header block that comes with some kits (you can also order the block for like 5.00)

with the pump running tilt the pc forward about 45 degrees, hold it for about 30 seconds and then do the same in the other direction and then the same from side to side
you will see alot of air thats in the rad come out this way
top off as needed. then just let it sit and cycle water for about a hour and top off one more time
that should do it
having a micro-res at the top of the case makes it pretty easy as it can catch 90% of the air there and also gives you a nice fill point as well
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post #4 of 10
Okie Dokie, finally at home and took a look at these pics... pretty standard issue, and about what I figured from my earlier post, the highest point in the system is the rad, so that is going to make life interesting when it comes to bleeding.

When one siphons fluid from one container to another, the trick is to put some suction on a tube/line and than put that line below the water level of one container, once the pressure + fluid (gravity) in the line overcomes the weight of the fluid to be pumped, the fluid moves up the hose and down the hill as it were.

Due to your setup you have no good way to add fluid to be physically above the rad, thus, no way to suck down fluid into your container (the loop), and replace the air.

Imagine trying to fill an aquarium by adding water to the middle of the tank... as soon as you open the tank, the water dumps out... kinda the same concept. Put a fitting in the middle of the tank, run a line to that fitting that goes above the top of the water level of said tank, and now you may add fluid until the levels are equal.

Add a fill line that physically goes above the rad, fill it up (I like stop fittings like on your drain line, little pipe tape on a cheap plastic funnel, and just screw it down in) add a little high quality h20 while your pump is on and watch the magic happen.
 
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post #5 of 10
Thread Starter 
Thanks for the help you guys are awsome I have drained it and changed pump position and piping, I am not sure were to put t line for best drainage, I have placed it in a spot I think it might work but I wanted to check with you were to put it or if I should make any more changes before I fill up again and try to bleed let me know Thankyou.
I have changed the setup were should I put T line???








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post #6 of 10
If you only want a drain line then I'd connect it to the secondary outlet of your pump top.
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post #7 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by redhotpc View Post
Thanks for the help you guys are awsome I have drained it and changed pump position and piping, I am not sure were to put t line for best drainage, I have placed it in a spot I think it might work but I wanted to check with you were to put it or if I should make any more changes before I fill up again and try to bleed let me know Thankyou.
I have changed the setup were should I put T line???
So I got to thinking about it and wanna toss this at ya, try to put that fill line on the return to the res (or low pressure point) heck I may even use a Y fitting with 1 part of the Y on the pressure loop side, and the other part of the Y off to the fill end, and the base of the Y in line with the flow. A T works just as well, but a Y may look a little cleaner.

As far as the drain, I like that on the low(est) point on a pressure side, so that one may use pump pressure to piss out the fluid and still have the pump 'wet'. Just my , but glad your seeing some progress. +rep
 
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post #8 of 10
Quote:
drained it and changed pump position and piping, I am not sure were to put t line for best drainage, I have placed it in a spot I think it might work but I wanted to check with you were to put it or if I should make any more changes before I fill up again and try to bleed let me know Thankyou.
I have changed the setup were should I put T line???
So I got to thinking about it and wanna toss this at ya, try to put that fill line on the return to the res (or low pressure point) heck I may even use a Y fitting with 1 part of the Y on the pressure loop side, and the other part of the Y off to the fill end, and the base of the Y in line with the flow. A T works just as well, but a Y may look a little cleaner.

As far as the drain, I like that on the low(est) point on a pressure side, so that one may use pump pressure to piss out the fluid and still have the pump 'wet'. Just my , but glad your seeing some progress. +rep
 
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post #9 of 10
Thread Starter 
I have put back together and tried to refill and bleed and I am stuck again please look over photos of were air bubbles are and fetch me your ideas I have enough pipe left to move the T line if you reckon that will do it let me know what you think Thank You.










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post #10 of 10
Quote:
Originally Posted by redhotpc View Post
I have put back together and tried to refill and bleed and I am stuck again please look over photos of were air bubbles are and fetch me your ideas I have enough pipe left to move the T line if you reckon that will do it let me know what you think Thank You.
Did not have a chance to follow up on this thread at the house, so again cant see the pics at work. But;

As an experiement one can take a clear piece of hose and add water, now if we rotate that hose around its axis (with the ends open) we see that the water level stays equal no matter how we configure that piece of pipe. Now if you cap one end of that pipe and leave an air bubble on the capped end, it is possible to hold the water in position with the air trapped, moving the pipe around should allow that air to travel from the capped side to the open side, but by adding a bleed line (in essence) opening the closed end again that air will no longer be trapped.

(This experiement is also good to get in mind how much manipulation it takes squeezing the tube and such, it takes to get that air in certain hose configs to move)

The key here is that it is sometimes beneficial to have a bleed line seperate from the drain line. When adding fluid, with the drain closed/capped and a bleed line open (best around that rad in your case, and like the fill line, above the highest point of the working loop) where you pump fluid will travel:

Sucking down: the open fill point (while adding fluid to keep the level above the loop; this is where having a funnel and a couple jugs of distilled water come in handy)

Through the loop (nothing special here/make sure no leaks)

Out from the bleed line: if the bleed is above the system height, but equal height to the fill, as the system is pumped the bleed will eject excess water and with it, carry air bubbles. (added water will cause this bleed to well, bleed) This outlet can be pretty small, using 1/2" ID, could install something like an 1/8" ID line is plenty good, leading down into an empty jug. (and if you use nothing but distilled, you can recycle this fluid from that jug).

Your drain line is closed during this process.

Doing this and getting around 90% or better water to air and confident that the rad is completely filled (not only 80% filled with a big air pocket on the high side) will let the remaining air pump through enough, and hopefully find its way to your fill line.

Once your bleed goes all liquid, and not air/liquid your close, cap that line.

Now the fill/pump/shake routine should get the remaining air trapped around the blocks to let go and make some progress.

Basically your adding water, while letting water out, due to some flow laws/principles/nature of the universe, water bubbles will be carried by this flow some up and through the rad and back into the loop, and some out through the bleed line.

To see this principle in action, take a ping pong ball, put it on a string, and turn on the tap water, now put the ball into the flow of the water, the water will "hold" the tennis ball in place and not allow it to swing back perpendicular to the string, but at and angle to it.

Give it a go and get back to me with the results one way or another.
 
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Logitech THX 5.1 Original G15 / Logitech G700 
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Yukikaze
(18 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Ryzen 1800X Asus C6 Hero AMD / ATI Reference AC VEGA 64cu - EK-FC-WB G.Skill DDR4 3200 2x8 Single Samsung B.Dies 
Hard DriveCoolingCoolingOS
Samsung EVO 960 NVME 250G Water Air Winblows 10c 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Samsung CF791 34" 3440x1440 x100hz 48-100hz Fre... Logitech G15 TPX-775M NZXT Phantom "Original" 
MouseMouse PadAudioOther
G700 Generic Black Neoprene Supreme FX S1220 Onboard Aerocool Touch 2100 
OtherOther
Revoltec CCFL 30cm Twin UV Rev 2 Revoltec CCFL 30cm Twin UV Rev 1 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Phenom II X4 965 be MSI NF980-G65 MSI R9 280X (2x) G.Skill F3-12800CL9D-4GBRL 
Hard DriveOptical DriveCoolingOS
SSD DVD-RW 24x Custom water Windows 7 (build 7600) 64bit 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
B2230 Logitech G15 w/ LCD TPX-775M NZXT Phantom White 
MouseMouse PadAudioAudio
Logitech MX Revolution a black square SB X-Fi Titanium Sharkoon XTatic 
AudioOther
Logitech THX 5.1 Original G15 / Logitech G700 
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Reply
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Overclock.net › Forums › Cooling › Water Cooling › Please help with how to bleed watercooling system or correct bleeding setup