I'm a complete noob when it comes to watercooling, I want to build myself a small cpu loop (rasa kit) as a base and I want to know the risks involved when doing a custom waterloop. Like, what are the chances of the pump failing, leakage, etc?
Well, assuming you use distilled, which you should, there shouldn't be any ions in the water, so, if it does leak, no parts can short, because the thing in water that can make electrical devices short is small particals, called, ions. This is why distilled water is great, because as far as I know it's de-inoised.
There are a few risks, things like during installation breaking certain components. If you do it well and take your time, and if all goes well on the equipment end, then you should be able to sleep well at night
Depends on how carefully you check your loop. The risk is - it leaking, going all over your expensive equipment, and then needing to buy all new components
But that is just my own personal experience b/c of a leaking cpu block
Pump failures, pretty uncommon and most the ones I have heard about you could see coming. (noise, heat, loop performance declines), to solve that most quality pumps provide a fan speed header 3pin connector which you can monitor pump rpm's with, many bios's allow for a setting that if that rpm = 0 the pc shuts down, otherwise third party software like CoreTemp may be used to shut down the pc if it gets beyond a user defined threshold.
Leaks, you want to use some teflon tape/plumbers tape on fittings to prevent gauling of the threads, different people feel different ways, but generally, 24hr testing using a psu with a jumper or dummy plug to run the loop before power is applied to the pc will reveal any poorly installed fittings/leaky blocks/rads (though a rad should be cleaned before use).
any water even distilled can become ionized. all it has to do is hit a particle of dust and boom, you're now conductive. I just shorted my video card which is underwater because one of my compression fittings leaked and I'm using distilled and a kill coil.
Originally Posted by Soggysilicon;12163966
Pump failures, pretty uncommon and most the ones I have heard about you could see coming. (noise, heat, loop performance declines), to solve that most quality pumps provide a fan speed header 3pin connector which you can monitor pump rpm's with, many bios's allow for a setting that if that rpm = 0 the pc shuts down, otherwise third party software like CoreTemp may be used to shut down the pc if it gets beyond a user defined threshold.
Leaks, you want to use some teflon tape/plumbers tape on fittings to prevent gauling of the threads, different people feel different ways, but generally, 24hr testing using a psu with a jumper or dummy plug to run the loop before power is applied to the pc will reveal any poorly installed fittings/leaky blocks/rads (though a rad should be cleaned before use).
Well, you don't need teflon tape. Otherwise, good advice.
Leaking and pump failure aren't huge issues if you do everything right. As long as you keep a close eye on your rig for the first several hours, everything should end up fine.
I've watched an installiation guide by TimeToLiveCustoms (OC3D) and It seemed pretty easy to install a basic cpu loop, and since you guys said that pump failure/leakage isn't that commen (if done properly), I think I'm going to buy the rasa kit when I get the money
One last question.
I currently have a H70 in P/P with a pair of Scythe GT AP15's, I guess the 120mm rasa kit would be beaten by the H70, right? Which kit would outperform the h70?
Originally Posted by Analog;12164439
One last question.
I currently have a H70 in P/P with a pair of Scythe GT AP15's, I guess the 120mm rasa kit would be beaten by the H70, right? Which kit would outperform the h70?
THe 120 rasa kit should beat the H70 by a bit. I would go with the 360 or 240 rasa. This gives you room to expand to GPU cooling as well. As far as pump failures. A lot of Pumps have MTBF(mean time between failure) of 50,000 hours and most pumps will run forever.
The RS120 kit will slightly outperform the H70, but the RS240 kit for $30 more is a much better deal. It comes with a 240 radiator (double the size) and a much better pump and these facts combined allow it to beat the H70 by a much larger margin (10+ C).
So either 240/360, Is the installation for these kits the same as a 120mm one? The guide I saw was for installing a 120mm.
Also, I have an NZXT Phantom case, Can I fit a 240/360 in it (without modding)?
So either 240/360, Is the installation for these kits the same as a 120mm one? The guide I saw was for installing a 120mm.
Also, I have an NZXT Phantom case, Can I fit a 240/360 in it (without modding)?
The installation is all the same. It is no different from the 120mm guide. The only difference is you have a bigger radiator.
NZXT can only hold a 240mm rad without modding. You can though fit a 360mm outside. The rasa kits comes with a mounting bracket should you decide to fit it outside.
The installation is all the same. It is no different from the 120mm guide. The only difference is you have a bigger radiator.
NZXT can only hold a 240mm rad without modding. You can though fit a 360mm outside. The rasa kits comes with a mounting bracket should you decide to fit it outside.
I rather have it inside the case, so a 240mm it is.
I guess it fits just below the top 200mm fans?
So either 240/360, Is the installation for these kits the same as a 120mm one? The guide I saw was for installing a 120mm.
Also, I have an NZXT Phantom case, Can I fit a 240/360 in it (without modding)?
Pump failures, pretty uncommon and most the ones I have heard about you could see coming. (noise, heat, loop performance declines), to solve that most quality pumps provide a fan speed header 3pin connector which you can monitor pump rpm's with, many bios's allow for a setting that if that rpm = 0 the pc shuts down, otherwise third party software like CoreTemp may be used to shut down the pc if it gets beyond a user defined threshold.
I don't mean to Hi-jack the thread...but I have a 655 and I plugged the three pin into the mobo, and it doesn't read...Is there a specific plug on the mobo?
I don't mean to Hi-jack the thread...but I have a 655 and I plugged the three pin into the mobo, and it doesn't read...Is there a specific plug on the mobo?
No, it should work out of the box. Are you sure you didn't plug the cable in backwards? Does the RPM display in the BIOS?
No, it should work out of the box. Are you sure you didn't plug the cable in backwards? Does the RPM display in the BIOS?
It only fits one way, but I'll see if the other way works, and no it doesn't display in the bios. I know the pumps working unless my CPU generates 0 heat.
I don't mean to Hi-jack the thread...but I have a 655 and I plugged the three pin into the mobo, and it doesn't read...Is there a specific plug on the mobo?
Yeah if it isn't reading something either mis-configured or the RPM readout on the pump is broken. My 355 is plugged into the CPU fan header and it reads the RPM fine, 4484 RPM is the speed I have right now.
Originally Posted by Analog;12164580
So either 240/360, Is the installation for these kits the same as a 120mm one? The guide I saw was for installing a 120mm.
Also, I have an NZXT Phantom case, Can I fit a 240/360 in it (without modding)?
Check meh build out in meh siggy for pics of my NZXT phantom-white with a 360 G-Phobya 1.2 Black rad on the outside...
As far as the 240, you should be able to fit it, BUT, anything wider than a dime is going to hard press you if you want to do push/pull... not only that but the 200mm fans (assuming you buy a second fan, stock case only has the 1) have lots o' cfm, but very little in the way of pressure, I am not sure about the whole good/bad of that in a real world environment... point being is that it wont fit quite square, its going to be a little off by design... the fans are centerline to the case, while the mounting is off by 1/2" to be aligned with the mobo mounting plate.
Great case, but the wc solutions the manufacturer envisioned was probably not what you or I dream of, just a little too much wasted space.
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