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Delta AFB1212VHE Rev. C (.68A or .9A Current?)

post #1 of 9
Thread Starter 
Everywhere online says 0.68A as the input current, even the Delta PDF, but I just got my fan in today and they say 0.9A on the back. It is definitely Rev. C (from the "-CF00" that also appears on the back). I also noticed that the picture at Sidewinder's website says the same thing. What gives? Is it .68 or .9A.

Sidewinder's Page

Delta PDF

It matters because I want to run 2 fans per channel off a fan controller with 20W per channel. At .68A I am fine running 16.32W total, but at .9A I would need 21.6W.
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post #2 of 9
Thread Starter 
I'm starting to wonder if it has something to do with nominal/maximum current values. Maybe it means it runs at 0.68A normally, but can hit 0.9A under certain conditions (high load,etc)?
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post #3 of 9
Well a series wound motor needs a higher current to get going from a stand still, so I figure your right, only way to be sure is to light it off and put a multimeter on it to be sure.
 
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post #4 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Soggysilicon View Post
Well a series wound motor needs a higher current to get going from a stand still, so I figure your right, only way to be sure is to light it off and put a multimeter on it to be sure.
I would need to find a way to put the multimeter in series with the fan power because you can't measure current like you would voltage. Also, have to make sure my multimeter can handle upwards of 10A at 12VDC.

I'm just hoping someone knows the answer and chimes in before I have to test it. Martin probably knows.

EDIT: Found the info I was looking for (posted by MartinM210 none the less).

Looks like running under restriction it pulled 0.762A at 12V (so 9.14W). Probably under no load it would have seend the rated 0.68A and will probably see a bit more current through my more restricted HWLabs GTX radiators, but doubt it will hit 0.9A.

In short...its probably going to be DAMN close to the 10W that I am alotted for each fan, but I should be okay...we will see I guess.

Edited by turbocharged - 1/27/11 at 2:11pm
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post #5 of 9
Take one fan, any fan, and put meter in series to read amps. Switch on and run in free air, measure reading, now lay blowing side down on table and watch the increase. On a rad is a figure in between. On startup there will be a momentary high current too. Running normally the fan controller, if pwm, has very little problem handling the current and is under most stress at ~half speed.

I doubt it will hit 0.9A too

EDIT my experiments with a Delta showed about a 30% increase in current when flow was fully restricted
Edited by OldChap - 1/27/11 at 4:15pm
post #6 of 9
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by OldChap View Post
Take one fan, any fan, and put meter in series to read amps. Switch on and run in free air, measure reading, now lay blowing side down on table and watch the increase. On a rad is a figure in between. On startup there will be a momentary high current too. Running normally the fan controller, if pwm, has very little problem handling the current and is under most stress at ~half speed.

I doubt it will hit 0.9A too

EDIT my experiments with a Delta showed about a 30% increase in current when flow was fully restricted
Thanks for the info. I'll probably do the test anyway just to make the results the official final word. I still find it weird though that they claim one current in all their specifications, then print a different current on the back of the unit.
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post #7 of 9
The other thing to watch for is 12V versus "Rated" voltage. Many fans are rated to 13.2 or 13.8V, and probably give you numbers based on that high end voltage range as opposed to 12V that we are working in.

Per the delta PDF, it appears the VHE 12V model is actually rated to 12.8V, so I bet that's the voltage the used in providing current numbers.

Also most fan testing specs are open air based, at least noise data usually is.
Edited by Martinm210 - 1/27/11 at 5:53pm
    
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post #8 of 9
Quote:
Originally Posted by turbocharged View Post
I would need to find a way to put the multimeter in series with the fan power because you can't measure current like you would voltage. Also, have to make sure my multimeter can handle upwards of 10A at 12VDC.
No No you missed my point, you want to put the meter right on top of the fan and shake em, like a magic eight ball.



Due to a fan exhibiting variable resistance depending on startup/static pressure/flow, the only way to know is to set it up and test it.

That said, (your mileage may vary), I have had issues with wattage ratings of controllers not being what is published, if its close, may end up putting 1 per channel, or just install a fuse or circuit breaker.
 
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post #9 of 9
If you aren't going to be running them wide open it probably isn't going to matter. That extra watt or so with knob turned all the way up wont be missed. My controller goes to 30watts per channel but not going to be running my San Ace 2600rpm fans anywhere near 100%.
    
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