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Finished My SB build - Page 2

post #11 of 20
wrong topic
Edited by james160987 - 1/29/11 at 3:20pm
post #12 of 20
Awesome! Well done!
My Supra PC Rig
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Samsung 850 EVO 500GB Crucial Real SSD C300 WD Black 3TB Lite 24x DVD 
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XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Water Cooling Kit Windows 7 Ultimate Crossover 27Q LED-P Logitech G11 & G13 
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My Supra PC Rig
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i7-4790k  Asus Maximus VII Hero Z97  Asus Strix GTX970  G.Skill TridentX 16GB 2400MHZ 
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Samsung 850 EVO 500GB Crucial Real SSD C300 WD Black 3TB Lite 24x DVD 
CoolingOSMonitorKeyboard
XSPC Rasa 750 RS240 Water Cooling Kit Windows 7 Ultimate Crossover 27Q LED-P Logitech G11 & G13 
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Corsair 850TX Xion Predator Logitech G700 Corsair Gaming MM200  
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post #13 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by james160987 View Post
yours whaler as you have the exact same idea as iam aiming for, i cant hower see your res/pump on the xspc website, can you point me inthe right direction andadd a few more pics of your build if possible, ( backaswell if you have any).

i even had the same idea of the koolance connects at the bottem
No problem. The res on the XSPC site is listed under pumps, not reservoirs. No clue why since it doesn't come with a pump. url:http://www.xspc.biz/d5bayres.php

I really like the bay reservoir with the pump in it because you don't have to run any tubing from the reservoir to the pump. Makes for a clean install. I had a major issue with the XSPC reservoir though in that the tube inside the reservoir ends right at the pump intake making bleeding hard. I fixed this issue (well not an issue, just an anoyance to me) by cutting that tube off just inside the reservoir. (yes it can be taken out through the fill hole on the top). I took a dremel with a cutting disc and ran the disc against a bench grinder, grinding the diamerter of the disc smaller and smaller until it fit into the inlet tube. I then just proceded to cut the tube out. Works 100x better imo, but I am sure XSPC wouldn't be impressed and tell me it was done that way for a reason.


I hear you with not wanting long runs of tubing in your case. This is a before and after picture of my case with my first water cooling setup. You can see the radiator is mounted different and the tubing runs were very long. I didn't like it as much, and I am much happer with my seond build on the right. Cleaner runs, shorter runs. The video card block helped make shorter runs as well as running tube on the backside of the case worked out really well.


This is a picture of the reservoir area from the back side. With mounting the rad at the top of the case with the fittings on the bay side of the case I needed to make sure I had enough room to attach the tubing to the rad and make a nice loop down to the reservoir. If I had mounted the reservoir higher it would have made for some seriously tight spaces to work on the tubing. The Sycthe fan control is below the radiator since its depth is a non issue, followed by my dvd burner since the length of the dvd burning would have interfered with the radiator tubing if it was mounted higher.



Shot of the Scythe Gentle Typhoon fans on the rad. I can't say enough good things about these fans. They are very quiet. I mounted my fans inside the case and they pull air from the case up through the rad and out. Some people told me that "outside air is cooler and way better for cooling, your crazy". What I found was since my entire case is watercooled there is next to no heat in my case anyway. The chipset and ram are cool to the touch in Sandy bridge builds because you can't really overclock the BCLK. Also when pulling air into my case it just made a mess since I have no filters on the top of my case. I have the three rad fans venting out of the case, the back fan venting out and the bottom fan in the case pulling air into the case through the built in filter. I have no dust in my case at all, and that is nice.



Shot of the back side of the case with the wiring. I don't have a modular power supply so I have more cables floating around then needed, but you can see the tubing run up the backside. I'm using 1/2" ID 3/4" OD tubing and I can still fit it no problem, if you used a smaller tubing it would be even easier.



The koolance quick disconnect at the bottom is awesome. You have to buy two of them because when you disconnect them they close to prevent leaks. Take two lengths of tube and connect them to the second disconnect and to drain the system you just unconnect the disconnect in the case and attach you two drainging tubes. Super easy and super safe.
Let me know if you have any other questions.
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post #14 of 20
very nice build! Everything is well thought out, from the color combination of the tubing & case interior, to the tube routing, etc. Cable management in the back could be better, b ut hey, who ever looks back there?

What would interest me though, is: How fast do you keep your fans running and what WATER temps do you get in idle and if you let furmark & prime95 run for 20 minutes or so?
I would like to know how powerful a 360 rad, getting air from inside an 800D, is. If you have time that is
    
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post #15 of 20
Thread Starter 
For my 24/7 overclock I run 4.9Ghz with a voltage offset of +0.04 which brings it to a 1.4 voltage on the chip. Running in games/futuremark 3DMark11 and 3D Mark Vantage the cpu temp never comes above 45C (normally averages around 42C). When running Prime95 small ftts and blends I stay right around 70C. When I did my 5Ghz run and bumped the vcore to 1.49 the temps were still good considering the huge jump in voltage. Check out the temps on my 5Ghz club post. http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post12179705
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post #16 of 20
Thread Starter 
I should add that I idle at ~28C and at stock 2600k voltage and no overclock I max out my temps running small ftts in prime95 for about 10 min at 44C. Don't know if you care about running stock or not, but I ran it to give you the temps.
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i7 2600k Asus P8P67 Deluxe XFX 5870 1GB GSkill Ripsaw 1600Mhz CL8 
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post #17 of 20
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whaler69 View Post
For my 24/7 overclock I run 4.9Ghz with a voltage offset of +0.04 which brings it to a 1.4 voltage on the chip. Running in games/futuremark 3DMark11 and 3D Mark Vantage the cpu temp never comes above 45C (normally averages around 42C). When running Prime95 small ftts and blends I stay right around 70C. When I did my 5Ghz run and bumped the vcore to 1.49 the temps were still good considering the huge jump in voltage. Check out the temps on my 5Ghz club post. http://www.overclock.net/intel-cpus/...l#post12179705
Running my 24/7 4.9Ghz overclock I keep the fans at ~1300rpm. Thats the point where I can't really hear them. All my references to temps are at 1300rpm fan speeds except my 5ghz run where it turned them up to 1800rpm.
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i7 2600k Asus P8P67 Deluxe XFX 5870 1GB GSkill Ripsaw 1600Mhz CL8 
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post #18 of 20
what are your settings? those are amazing temps

is llc on, etc?
    
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post #19 of 20
Thread Starter 
If anyone can figure out how to screenshot from within the new EFI Asus bios, please let me know. I thought we could do that but I couldn't see how.

llc - Very High
SpreadSpectrum - off
Phase Control - Extreme
Duty Control - Extreme
Current Capability - 120%
I use offset voltage, not static. +0.04 for daily use. (offset lets your voltage come down when turbo isn't in use)
PLL Voltage 1.71625 (from memory here... just above 1.71)

My 4.9 Ghz temps are with HT on, my 5Ghz temps were with HT off. I can't seem to get 5Ghz with this chip with HT on, but I like HT a lot so its on for my 24/7 use at 4.9Ghz
Edited by Whaler69 - 1/30/11 at 7:50pm
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i7 2600k Asus P8P67 Deluxe XFX 5870 1GB GSkill Ripsaw 1600Mhz CL8 
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intel X25M G2 SSD Windows 7 64Bit Ultimate Coarsair 800D 
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post #20 of 20
Extremely clean, I really like it!
Future Proof 2.0
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Future Proof 2.0
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Samsung 850 Evo Samsung 850 Evo Toshiba Q Series Pro WD Black 
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