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Budget PSU for old 8800GTX - Page 3

post #21 of 79
Right, because Newegg.com reviews are to be trusted. Again, that Sunbeam unit is a huge turd.
How would the 400W Antec I recommended not work? It's the best 400W unit currently available short of the fanless SeaSonic, it's cheap, and it does 30A at 12V. You yourself said to get a 30A unit. You're not making any sense. Plus the 8800GTX needs 150W max (I mean just the card).
post #22 of 79
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Shub View Post
Don't worry about the whole single or multi rail thing, it's irrelevant in your range of wattage.
You'll note that the requirement you posted for the video card says:
Minimum recommended power supply with +12 Volt current rating of 28 Amps.
The Antec PSU I linked you to provides 30A at 12V. It'll be more than enough for your system.
ok, so for example the link Track just suggested was a 680w that listed these specifications for "output"

Quote:
Output +3.3V@30A, +5V@28A, +12V1@20A, +12V2@20A, -12V@0.3A, +5VSB@2.5A
in other words it's offering 20A at 12V, so very much avoid this and like kind?



here is a budget $40 500w PSU that my local microcenter has in stock at the store
http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0292766

Quote:
Load Range +3.3V@28A; +5V@24A; +12V1@17A; +12V2@19A; -12V@1.5A; +5VSB@2.5A
avoid this for the same reason, correct?



Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
That's like buying a Ferrari for your dog.

Why buy a PSU from the best manufacturer on earth for an old peripheral GTX 8800 build?
this is def my point of view

don't fight guys
post #23 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
I disagree.

The worst thing that's ever happened to me with the 100+ rigs I've built is the PSU died and I had to replace it with another cheap one (less than 3% of the time.)

If you can find a cheap 30A PSU, get it.
u got lucky seriously my crappy psu took my mobo with it...
and my freind's took his mobo and gfx as well as hdd with it......
so to op get a gud psu like corsair vx 450 watt
post #24 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shub View Post
Right, because Newegg.com reviews are to be trusted. Again, that Sunbeam unit is a huge turd.
How would the 400W Antec I recommended not work? It's the best 400W unit currently available short of the fanless SeaSonic, it's cheap, and it does 30A at 12V. You yourself said to get a 30A unit. You're not making any sense. Plus the 8800GTX needs 150W max (I mean just the card).
Of course Newegg reviews count. Where do you live?

The Seasonic is NOT a huge turd! Just because a PSU is not made by one of the few top manufacturers does not mean it's going to implode your house. It does not lack the magic dust only sprinkled on Antec, PCP&C, Silverstone, OCZ, Corsair and the top-end Thermaltake PSUs.

I think the 680w is better than the 400w.
Either it doesn't matter and it will run the 8800 GTX just fine forever.
Or he will one day need a spare PSU when 400w won't run anything.

Yes, maybe the Antec will last for 10 years. Maybe it has a better warranty.
But you'd be an overly-proactive sucker to buy it.
Edited by Track - 2/1/11 at 6:49am
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post #25 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberwurst View Post
ok, so for example the link Track just suggested was a 680w that listed these specifications for "output"

in other words it's offering 20A at 12V, so very much avoid this and like kind?
No no no.

That's THREE rails with 20A on EACH of them.

Of course, that doesn't give you 60A.

To know the total amperage, you have to look in the spec sheet.

If it's a good PSU (this one isn't horrible), it will be 90% of the total wattage, divided by 12 (12v rail means every 12 watts are an amp).

So let's say it's 620w dedicated to the +12v rails combined.
That's 52A.
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post #26 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
Of course Newegg reviews count. Where do you live?

The Seasonic is NOT huge turd! Just because a PSU is not made by one of the few top manufacturers does not mean it's going to implode your house. It does not lack the magic dust only sprinkled on Antec, PCP&C, Silverstone, OCZ, Corsair and the top-end Thermaltake PSUs.

I think the 680w is better than the 400w.
Either it doesn't matter and it will run the 8800 GTX just fine forever.
Or he will one day need a spare PSU when 400w won't run anything.

Yes, maybe the Antec will last for 10 years. Maybe it has a better warranty.
But you'd be an overly-proactive sucker to buy it.
ya u r correct but u should agree that a psu can also degrade ur h/w overtime if it has more ripple and out of atx spec voltage fluctuations....its not like they are gonna implode/explode as u said but definitely going for a cheaper 650 watt which aint that gud wont serve the purpose of future upgradation...coz it wont be propely be able take on the whole 650 watt load ...so its still not gonna stop the op from buying a new psu with his upgrade....
and also take into accout capacitor aging when the time comes that the op has to upgrade the psu efficiency and power output would also have decreased.......
so to op dont think about future think about now and take just what fullfills ur need.......
post #27 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by uberwurst View Post
ok, so for example the link Track just suggested was a 680w that listed these specifications for "output"



in other words it's offering 20A at 12V, so very much avoid this and like kind?



here is a budget $40 500w PSU that my local microcenter has in stock at the store
http://www.microcenter.com/single_pr...uct_id=0292766



avoid this for the same reason, correct?
With cheap PSUs like those, you should never trust the sticker. The info you gave is unfortunately insufficient but that's not your fault. The info should be on the sticker, but it's not on the product page, so there's no way of knowing that the PSU is actually rated for. Next to the ampere rating of the 12V rails, there should be a mention of the max power the 12V source can deliver.
See this for example: http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/...20-S04?$S640W$
Under the table with the ampere ratings, there is a line that says +12V1, +12V2, +12V3, +12V4 max. load: 45A -- that's how you know how much power you actually have available. The individual ampere rating for each rail are where the OCP is calibrated, meaning if you try drawing more than the rated amperage for that one rail, the PSU is set to shut down harmlessly.
But the stickers on cheap junkers like that "680W" Chiefmax and the one you linked to at Micro Center tend to lie or make the numbers look prettier.
Compare that with the sticker on the Sunbeam 680W unit that other guy mentioned (you'll have to click on the pictures to find it). It bears no mention of the actual max load at 12V. It should, but it doesn't. It just says a combined rating for all rails. This is HIGHLY suspicious and says nothing about the PSU's actual capability. But in all likelihood, it can't deliver more than 350-400W, it has horrible ripple suppression, horrible efficiency, and it has a 1-year life span before it dies catastrophically.

Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
Of course Newegg reviews count. Where do you live?
It says right there <---- where I live. 99.9% of Newegg reviews are posted by people who don't know the first thing about PSUs. Either it works or it doesn't. If it works, 5 stars. If it doesn't, 1 star. So for the whopping FOURTEEN people who gave it 5 stars, it must have worked. That doesn't make it any less of a huge turd.

Quote:
The Seasonic is NOT a huge turd! Just because a PSU is not made by one of the few top manufacturers does not mean it's going to implode your house. It does not lack the magic dust only sprinkled on Antec, PCP&C, Silverstone, OCZ, Corsair and the top-end Thermaltake PSUs.
When did a SeaSonic unit ever come up in this thread? The Sunbeam 680W is a huge turd, period, and Sunbeam is in no way affiliated with SeaSonic.

Quote:
Originally Posted by uberwurst View Post
don't fight guys
I will defend this very adamantly, and this is for your own good, not mine.
Edited by Shub - 2/1/11 at 6:56am
post #28 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Shub View Post
With cheap PSUs like those, you should never trust the sticker. The info you gave is unfortunately insufficient but that's not your fault. The info should be on the sticker, but it's not on the product page, so there's no way of knowing that the PSU is actually rated for. Next to the ampere rating of the 12V rails, there should be a mention of the max power the 12V source can deliver.
See this for example: http://images17.newegg.com/is/image/newegg/17-371-020-S04?$S640W$
Under the table with the ampere ratings, there is a line that says +12V1, +12V2, +12V3, +12V4 max. load: 45A -- that's how you know how much power you actually have available.
But the stickers on cheap junkers like that "680W" Chiefmax and the one you linked to at Micro Center tend to lie or make the numbers look prettier.
Compare that with the sticker on the Sunbeam 680W unit that other guy mentioned (you'll have to click on the pictures to find it). It bears no mention of the actual max load at 12V. It should, but it doesn't. It just says a combined rating for all rails. This is HIGHLY suspicious and says nothing about the PSU's actual capability. But in all likelihood, it can't deliver more than 350-400W, it has horrible ripple suppression, horrible efficiency, and it has a 1-year life span before it dies catastrophically.



It says right there <---- where I live. 99.9% of Newegg reviews are posted by people who don't know the first thing about PSUs. Either it works or it doesn't. If it works, 5 stars. If it doesn't, 1 star. So for the whopping FOURTEEN people who gave it 5 stars, it must have worked. That doesn't make it any less of a huge turd.



When did a SeaSonic unit ever come up in this topic? The Sunbeam 680W is a huge turd, period.



I will defend this very adamantly, and this is for your own good, not mine.
exactly +1.....
post #29 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by ghost_z View Post
ya u r correct but u should agree that a psu can also degrade ur h/w overtime if it has more ripple and out of atx spec voltage fluctuations....its not like they are gonna implode/explode as u said but definitely going for a cheaper 650 watt which aint that gud wont serve the purpose of future upgradation...coz it wont be propely be able take on the whole 650 watt load ...so its still not gonna stop the op from buying a new psu with his upgrade....
and also take into accout capacitor aging when the time comes that the op has to upgrade the psu efficiency and power output would also have decreased.......
so to op dont think about future think about now and take just what fullfills ur need.......
Look, I've been dealing with cheap-o PSUs for years.

I've had about 5 die out on me (2 of which just needed a fan replacement).

And even when they overheated to the point that the PC had to shut down 5 minutes after boot and about 5 times a day..

It never ruined any of the components!

In fact, I personally have two P4 systems still running to this day with virtually every single thing PSU-related going wrong happen to them.

So I'm sorry, but I am not going to agree that people should spend twice the money for a PSU that looks more prestigious.
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White Phoenix
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post #30 of 79
Quote:
Originally Posted by Track View Post
Look, I've been dealing with cheap-o PSUs for years.

I've had about 5 die out on me (2 of which just needed a fan replacement).

And even when they overheated to the point that the PC had to shut down 5 minutes after boot and about 5 times a day..

It never ruined any of the components!

In fact, I personally have two P4 systems still running to this day with virtually every single thing PSU-related going wrong happen to them.

So I'm sorry, but I am not going to agree that people should spend twice the money for a PSU that looks more prestigious.
You've just been lucky. This has nothing to do with prestige or brand, only with quality.
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