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Why does my computer do this? - Page 2

post #11 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by Crabid View Post
I can't really speak for sandybridge since it's not something I've OC'd but automated programs that OC for you are all terrible. The only exceptions being tools like SetFSB for changing bits while in windows, even that I feel is only needed for more advanced OCs like suicides.

I don't see sandybridge being that much different.


Hell, my board decided my CPU would need 1.4V to be stable on 3.6GHz...
Nah, Sandybridge's new Auto OC is actually quite nice and conservative with the voltage.
The Wtfer
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The Wtfer
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post #12 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by GlockZoR IV View Post
poor wiring.. reckeck everything and sort your overclock out... rpbably isnt stable. also what PSU are yuo running
1000W Cooler Master
My System
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My System
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 2600K ASUS P8P67 EVO EVGA GTX 580 Patriot DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 8 GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Intel SSD, VelocityRaptor 300 GB, Seagate 1 TB LG BD-ROM, Lite On DVD/CD-ROM Windows 7 64-bit LG e2360 
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Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold 1000W Cooler Master HAF 932 
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post #13 of 15
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by skitzogreg View Post
It's not stable - simple as that. Reset your BIOS and start over.
How do you reset the BIOS?
My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 2600K ASUS P8P67 EVO EVGA GTX 580 Patriot DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 8 GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Intel SSD, VelocityRaptor 300 GB, Seagate 1 TB LG BD-ROM, Lite On DVD/CD-ROM Windows 7 64-bit LG e2360 
PowerCase
Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold 1000W Cooler Master HAF 932 
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My System
(13 items)
 
  
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i7 2600K ASUS P8P67 EVO EVGA GTX 580 Patriot DDR3 1600 (PC3 12800) 8 GB 
Hard DriveOptical DriveOSMonitor
Intel SSD, VelocityRaptor 300 GB, Seagate 1 TB LG BD-ROM, Lite On DVD/CD-ROM Windows 7 64-bit LG e2360 
PowerCase
Cooler Master Silent Pro Gold 1000W Cooler Master HAF 932 
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post #14 of 15
Hmm I had this exact same problem when I RMA'ed my RAM and put replacements in- my PC wouldn't boot at all and the red light came on near the RAM slots. I tried everything (powering off, reset BIOS etc) and found the only thing that worked for me- power PC off fully, then hold the power button down for a few seconds to drain the power from the system fully.

Don't know why but this worked first time for me and it's been working 100% ever since- hope it fixes it for you.
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My PC
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i5 750 P7P55D-EVO MSI GTX 460 SE 4GB G.Skill Ripjaws CL7 1600 
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OCZ Vertex 2E 60GB + F3 1TB +74GB Raptor Samsung Arch 64 Gnome 3 LG 22" 1680x1050 
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Microsoft 600 OCZ Stealth Xtream 500w NZXT Phantom White G9 1000hz 
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QCK Mini 
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post #15 of 15
Quote:
Originally Posted by FSX_realpilot View Post
I tried the optimal setting on the ASUS BIOS and booted my computer and it overclocked the i7 2600K to around 4.1-4.2. Everything was peachy until in shut my computer down. The next time i booted it up, the monitor wouldn't come on and i believe the red light next to the memory was illuminated. There was nothing i could do so I just turned it off with the power switch. Waited a little while then turned it back on and it fired up then shut itself off, then booted itself back on, then back off, then on the third time it finally booted up and into windows. And yes I'm aware of the P67 chipset defect. I have the ASUS P8P67 EVO. What gives? Why did it do that? Have I already screwed up my computer?
I had the exact same thing happen, It should mean your over clock isn't stable.
However, I also had it powerup-shutdown-restart(all by itself every cold boot) and then boot normal a while ago and that was due to a bad RAM DIMM...so you might try swapping each DIMM of your RAM out to see if there is a bad DIMM.
Edited by techheadtrevor - 2/1/11 at 5:24pm
Vengeance 2
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Vengeance 2
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