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post #21 of 33
Did you accidentally tap a capacitor?
post #22 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phaedrus2129 View Post
? My understanding is you messed with it while it was on.

99% of a power supply's components should be discharged within 10 seconds of being unplugged. The only ones that retain significant charge are the X capacitors on the transient filter (boxy yellow or black things along one side, may be intermixed with coils). And you can only be shocked by those if you're messing with the underside of the PCB, because they're designed so that you can't touch the leads from above and they won't discharge anywhere else.
Well that makes sense

anyways, thanks <-- and why does it look like that smiley is dry humping?
+2 for all your help

my next project isnt going to involve opening one up.. but is it remotely possible to run a 70w 2 channel AMP off of the 12v leads on a psu? Im thinking no because the current (in amperes) isnt the same as a car battery, or is it?

PM me the info if anyone knows
Edited by raidmaxGuy - 2/7/11 at 9:40pm
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post #23 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by raidmaxGuy View Post
is it remotely possible to run a 70w 2 channel AMP off of the 12v leads on a psu?
Yes it is possible. Just make sure the PSU has enough power available to the connector you siphon power from. 70Wx2 means you need around 12A of power. Of course that's continuous and it may need more peak, so go by the fuse in the amp. That can also tell you the quality, because I've seen lower wattage units with high amp fuses meaning they can peak nicely, and I've seen higher wattage units with low amp fuses that can't even handle the wattage number, meaning they are crap and overrated units (just like some PSUs, heh).

If you do not yet have the amp and just want a cheap way to power some speakers, there are better ways to do this. One is to find a used receiver. Last year I picked up a Yamaha receiver that was probably 8 years old and originally sold for around $400, for around $30 fully functional. You can also buy small desktop amps these days. Look up T-amps at PartsExpress.com. They start at $20 for a fully functional Lepai 20Wx2 unit which is sufficient for desktop use. They have 50Wx2 Dayton units for $100. They even have a 15Wx2 Dayton unit that can run off batteries for $35. T-amps have really good efficiency and quality output. Heck, even audiophiles like them (after they mod them - can't leave good enough alone).
Edited by Zap - 2/8/11 at 10:36am
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post #24 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zap View Post
Yes it is possible. Just make sure the PSU has enough power available to the connector you siphon power from. 70Wx2 means you need around 12A of power. Of course that's continuous and it may need more peak, so go by the fuse in the amp. That can also tell you the quality, because I've seen lower wattage units with high amp fuses meaning they can peak nicely, and I've seen higher wattage units with low amp fuses that can't even handle the wattage number, meaning they are crap and overrated units (just like some PSUs, heh).

If you do not yet have the amp and just want a cheap way to power some speakers, there are better ways to do this. One is to find a used receiver. Last year I picked up a Yamaha receiver that was probably 8 years old and originally sold for around $400, for around $30 fully functional. You can also buy small desktop amps these days. Look up T-amps at PartsExpress.com. They start at $20 for a fully functional Lepai 20Wx2 unit which is sufficient for desktop use. They have 50Wx2 Dayton units for $100. They even have a 15Wx2 Dayton unit that can run off batteries for $35. T-amps have really good efficiency and quality output. Heck, even audiophiles like them (after they mod them - can't leave good enough alone).
+! super helpful info.. Its an old HiFonics Pluto VIII 70w stereo amp from an old car system... it was collecting dust and I decided that it could power my Design Acoustics bookshelf speakers...
I will let you know what type of fuse the amp has soon, the inline fuse isnt there anymore... so what would your recommend for an inline fuse in this situation? also dont know if i can use thinner wire than what i used last time.. i have some grey security/speaker wiring.. im going to assume that it isnt going to carry the current without heating up...

and on the power supply the +12v is rated at 18a and the -12v is rated a 1.0a

and how am i gonna ground it?
Edited by raidmaxGuy - 2/8/11 at 3:46pm
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post #25 of 33
You need to use wire that is as big or slightly bigger than what is used on it.

For the fuse, go to your local auto parts store and pick up an inline fuse there. They have them that crimp onto the wires.

Use a black wire from the psu to connect to the ground wire of the amp (or the actual case if it doesn't have an actual ground connector and would ground that way).
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post #26 of 33
Run the +12v to the power connector, and ground to ground, ignore the -12v lines. Cars (since the 1960s) and computers are both 12v negative ground. Do be aware that the car audio may well want a little more power than it's rated to pull as it's actually designed to run on 13v not 12v, since the alternator in the car puts out 13-14v when the engine is running.
Go by the fuse rating to spec your PSU. Multiply the fuse rating by 12 to get the 12v wattage you need and add a 10% or so safety margin on top.

Edit: When wiring it up, use multiple connections to both +12v and ground, so as to spread the load across all the rails and to avoid overheating any single wire or connector.
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post #27 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by allikat View Post
Run the +12v to the power connector, and ground to ground, ignore the -12v lines. Cars (since the 1960s) and computers are both 12v negative ground. Do be aware that the car audio may well want a little more power than it's rated to pull as it's actually designed to run on 13v not 12v, since the alternator in the car puts out 13-14v when the engine is running.
Go by the fuse rating to spec your PSU. Multiply the fuse rating by 12 to get the 12v wattage you need and add a 10% or so safety margin on top.

Edit: When wiring it up, use multiple connections to both +12v and ground, so as to spread the load across all the rails and to avoid overheating any single wire or connector.
from what i get out of this, i completely ignore the negative lead on the amp and simply ground the case to the psu ground?? then hook the positive up with several wires on the +12v on the ATX connector? (20 pin)

not so sure what you are trying to say on fuses... i have a 200w or so PSU and a 70 watt Amp
Edited by raidmaxGuy - 2/10/11 at 4:25pm
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post #28 of 33
Quote:
Originally Posted by raidmaxGuy View Post
from what i get out of this, i completely ignore the negative lead on the amp and simply ground the case to the psu ground?? then hook the positive up with several wires on the +12v on the ATX connector? (20 pin)
If there is a negative lead on the amp use that. You only connect the ground wire from the psu directly to the case if it doesn't have a negative lead/terminal and would use a screw through the case into the ground layer of the car to get's it's ground, which doesn't appear to be the case here.
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post #29 of 33
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by PapaSmurf View Post
If there is a negative lead on the amp use that. You only connect the ground wire from the psu directly to the case if it doesn't have a negative lead/terminal and would use a screw through the case into the ground layer of the car to get's it's ground, which doesn't appear to be the case here.
ok, when i tried that, i didnt get a power on for the amp. even though there was 12v running to it...
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post #30 of 33
Which wires from the psu did you use?

Did the psu fan start up? If not, that tells you that the psu didn't start up.
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