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Window A/C closed loop cooling. Need advice. - Page 2

post #11 of 18
Thread Starter 
Well, I was thinking about using a large picnic/camping cooler as a case, that should eliminate messy condensation all over the floor. Either that, or building a custom double-wall box with foam between the walls.

So the a/c unit should operate fine at low outdoor temps, it will just be really fast (efficient). That makes sense.

Now, what is the best way to determine what the lowest safe operating temp is? I'm reading all this stuff about slugging the compressor with liquid refrigerant. Do I put a thermometer in the case and do a test run? Find the absolute lowest my setup will go and then set the Ranco for a few degrees above that?
Edited by Baskt_Case - 2/10/11 at 7:06pm
    
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post #12 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baskt_Case View Post

Now, what is the best way to determine what the lowest safe operating temp is? I'm reading all this stuff about slugging the compressor with liquid refrigerant. Do I put a thermometer in the case and do a test run? Find the absolute lowest my setup will go and then set the Ranco for a few degrees above that?
yep u got the idea

but ur outside temps will make ur lowest temp be different all the time

lets say its -5c outside i see no reason why the a/c wouldn't hit -25-30c

but lets say its warm out +10c maybe -15c is as low as u will get

so if u set the ranco for -5c it will have no problem keeping that no matter what the outside temp is

but u feel like doing some benching figure the outside temp lets say -5c outside u can set the ranco for -20c and do ur benching now if u leave it and outside temp gose up well ur a/c will just run longer and longer to reach the temp and will use more and more power

the ranco is ur best bet at holding a stedy temp and keeping ur a/c from killing it self

as for useing a picnic cooler is a grate idea u can buy the really cheap white Styrofoam ones they are easy to cut holes in, to run wiring and if u mess it up its only like 5$ for another one

and spray foam is a good way to seal around ur wires but put masking tape on the wire where spray foam will go as spray foam is hard to get off when its dry
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post #13 of 18
Building a system in a cooler, using spray foam, etc, etc, sounds like a 3rd graders science experiment.

Why not invest in a water cooling system....

Mount the radiator to the output vent on the a/c unit.
When you need the temps to be low you can simply turn on the unit (if you don't want to freeze your room then build a vent to circulate it back outside).

With this setup your computer should run perfectly fine without the ac and when you want to game/bench you can turn it on.

I would insulate the hose from the radiator though.
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post #14 of 18
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Dark View Post
Building a system in a cooler, using spray foam, etc, etc, sounds like a 3rd graders science experiment.

Why not invest in a water cooling system....

Mount the radiator to the output vent on the a/c unit.
All your thread crapping really sucks, you know that? You've actually had a tiny bit of useful input but the problem is that you've prefaced everything with smart-alec comments.

My main goal is sub-ambient cooling with no condensation on any components.

I do not want to insulate or isolate anything, and I would really like for the entire system to benefit from the frigid cooling, NB/SB, PSU, GPU, everything, without condensation. The only way to accomplish this is to place the entire system into the sub-ambient environment. Short of putting my rig in a commercial walk-in freezer, I must build a setup to accomplish this.

I think until I know more about the absolute capabilities of a 5k A/C, I will probably settle for environment temps around 10C. If I can prove the setup reliable at that temp, then I can work towards sub-zero. Whats concerning me now is the fast cycle times. The relatively small space of a case, or even a large cooler is going to cool off fast and I'm afraid the a/c unit will be cycling too quickly.

Is there any way to reduce the output of an a/c unit? Say, reduce its capacity from 5k to 2.5k?
Edited by Baskt_Case - 2/11/11 at 1:29pm
    
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post #15 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baskt_Case View Post
All your thread crapping really sucks, you know that? You've actually had a tiny bit of useful input but the problem is that you've prefaced everything with smart-alec comments.

My main goal is sub-ambient cooling with no condensation on any components.

I do not want to insulate or isolate anything, and I would really like for the entire system to benefit from the frigid cooling, NB/SB, PSU, GPU, everything, without condensation. The only way to accomplish this is to place the entire system into the sub-ambient environment. Short of putting my rig in a commercial walk-in freezer, I must build a setup to accomplish this.

I think until I know more about the absolute capabilities of a 5k A/C, I will probably settle for environment temps around 10C. If I can prove the setup reliable at that temp, then I can work towards sub-zero. Whats concerning me now is the fast cycle times. The relatively small space of a case, or even a large cooler is going to cool off fast and I'm afraid the a/c unit will be cycling too quickly.

Is there any way to reduce the output of an a/c unit? Say, reduce its capacity from 5k to 2.5k?
I could really care less about you crying over my posts (which are well within reason of giving you input). This is a public forum.

You're 'ideas' are not the best solutions for what you are looking to do and it seems like you'll end up learning the hard way.

What benefits are you expecting to gain from chilling the entire system outside of preventing condensation? The chances of condensation in your make shift 'walk in freezer' will still be very high unless you keep it completely air tight and even then, if it's ever opened you will be introducing the system to moist air unless it is given time to heat back up to room temperature (or within reason). You'll have to seal up everything that you want in the cooler, it will literally have to be air tight.

Your idea seems far fetched, impractical, and 'ghetto' to say the least.
My suggestion of watercooling and keeping the radiator in front of the unit is much easier to implement, doesn't require you sealing your computer up in a cooler, lowers the chance of condensation on anything except for the output line from the radiator, and is completely reversible by simply moving the radiator back to the case and attaching a fan.

I won't bother giving you any more input, if anything I'll watch as you learn the hard way.
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post #16 of 18
Quote:
Originally Posted by Baskt_Case View Post

I think until I know more about the absolute capabilities of a 5k A/C, I will probably settle for environment temps around 10C. If I can prove the setup reliable at that temp, then I can work towards sub-zero. Whats concerning me now is the fast cycle times. The relatively small space of a case, or even a large cooler is going to cool off fast and I'm afraid the a/c unit will be cycling too quickly.

Is there any way to reduce the output of an a/c unit? Say, reduce its capacity from 5k to 2.5k?
even with a small space it will take atleast 5 min to drop 10c but thats not a problem

it has to stay off for atleast 1-2 min for the pressure inside the a/c to equalize if u set the dif temp on the ranco to 3-4 it will easely give the unit enough off time to equalize

no matter how u slice it u will need a ranco to control the whole deal for u


if u want to knock the capacity down its as easy as turning down the fan speed at full u get 5k at low u get half
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post #17 of 18
Thread Starter 
I cant let this one go. Now I'm eyeballing an old deep-freezer, its a smaller model that has had the mechanicals stripped but it is stilll structurally intact. Its about 14 Cu-Ft inside and has a nice double gasket with a magnet. I might just get my walk-in freezer!

Had toyed with the idea of using a closet or even a whole room, but dont have the room and I'm not trying to boost my bill by more than about $40/mo.

I was looking at these custom Tec A/C's that are actually just for this sort of thing but their horribly innefficient and exspensive to purchase. Still liking the idea of using an a/c unit.

I really want to put a whole system in sub-zero. I dont like the idea of having to wait hours (more?) before I could access the hardware when I need to. Even then, I'm not sure what the correct procedure would be to eliminate condensation forming during warm-up while I wait to access the internals. If I dont vent the space mechanically, it could take days (weeks?) before the space returned to room temp (~70F). Especially if I used a deep-freezer hull. When I was a kid and the power would go out, our deep freezer was good for at least 4-5 days before items starting thawing. Thats 5 days before internal temps reached 33F!

I just really dont like the prospects of having to put crap all over a motherboard and whatnot to keep it watertight. Whatever my solution ends up being, I want a 24/7 setup. I spend long hours away from home working (vacation this week), and I leave my rigs folding while I'm gone.
    
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post #18 of 18
no matter how u go about doing sub zero old freezer insulated case or a picnic cooler u wont have to do anything to ur mobo it wont sweat as the evap will be the coldest part and will pull all the moisture out of the air

as for getting at ur parts and not waiteing 4 days unplug the ac and watch the ranco temp read out as u run a bench in about 15min max u will be back to room temp inside the enclosure
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