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Full cover block questions

post #1 of 16
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My skin oils mess up copper so badly that I once dirtied the edge of a heat sink with the part of a latex glove that I held to put the glove on even though I had washed my hands immediately prior to prevent such a thing from happening. I've noticed that a lot of FC blocks have big areas of copper exposed on the top, and I have to wonder if manufactures lacquer these areas or what most people around here do to prevent it (aside from buying nickel plated blocks).

I also have to wonder if Aqua Computer's blocks are actually so much more lustrous than other brands blocks or if they just know how to expose photographs better than say, Watercool. If it's just a difference in photography, I'd probably be better off with the Watercool block, even though the "Heatkiller" title they attach to their blocks puts me off a bit.
    
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post #2 of 16
Aquacomputer blocks are overpriced, over promoted and over exaggerated. You'll always be best off with an EK supreme HF

As for the marking all you really need to do is take a lint cloth and just give it a little polish with some rubbing alcohol, it'll come right off

Comps
post #3 of 16
Thread Starter 
Ya know I'm talking about Full Cover GPU blocks, right? And I don't like the EK FC blocks, for my taste the plexi tops are a bit gaudy and the black tops are a bit plain. In Skinnee's GTX 480 block round up, the AquagraFX was right there with the best of the blocks, the only real looser there was the Bitspower block.

Thanks for the advice about removing the marks though, a lot simpler than most methods I've heard, though I'll probably try the lacquer anyway so I don't have to tiptoe around my own case, or if I want to blowtorch it for some reason. I like the luster of copper a bit too much to spring for a nickel plated block
    
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post #4 of 16
Quote:
Originally Posted by Phos View Post
Ya know I'm talking about Full Cover GPU blocks, right? And I don't like the EK FC blocks, for my taste the plexi tops are a bit gaudy and the black tops are a bit plain. In Skinnee's GTX 480 block round up, the AquagraFX was right there with the best of the blocks, the only real looser there was the Bitspower block.

Thanks for the advice about removing the marks though, a lot simpler than most methods I've heard, though I'll probably try the lacquer anyway so I don't have to tiptoe around my own case, or if I want to blowtorch it for some reason. I like the luster of copper a bit too much to spring for a nickel plated block
what's wrong with koolance?
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post #5 of 16
The main problem with the aqua computer blocks is how restrictive they are. A single block represents around 3 PSI of pressure drop, compared to the 0.8-1.2 of most other GPU blocks. Considering even the mighty MCP35X only puts out 6.1 PSI of head pressure, using 3 PSI on a single GPU block is a little crazy.
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post #6 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by DirectOverkill View Post
what's wrong with koolance?
I want a block that shows a bit of copper luster, that's all.

Quote:
Originally Posted by charliehorse55 View Post
The main problem with the aqua computer blocks is how restrictive they are. A single block represents around 3 PSI of pressure drop, compared to the 0.8-1.2 of most other GPU blocks. Considering even the mighty MCP35X only puts out 6.1 PSI of head pressure, using 3 PSI on a single GPU block is a little crazy.
I'm not terribly concerned by restriction, I'm admittedly choosing this block based mostly on appearance and build quality (which is why I'm so curious if the finish on the Watercool block is as nice as the one on the AquagraFX, I water cool mostly for silence and style. This is going to be a three block system consisting of my EK Supreme HF, a graphics block, and an HDD water block (so I can put them in a noise absorbing enclosure), and I'll probably hook up two of these blocks in parallel. Probably a T block with the HDD block getting 6mm tubing and quick disconnects for convenience and to bias the flow towards the GPU block. I've done the overclocking thing and the SLi thing, and I found that it's really best to focus on usability over performance unless you're overclocking for the sake of overclocking.
    
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post #7 of 16
Quote:
...and an HDD water block (so I can put them in a noise absorbing enclosure), and I'll probably hook up two of these blocks in parallel. Probably a T block with the HDD block getting 6mm tubing and quick disconnects for convenience and to bias the flow towards the GPU block
I'd skip the HDD block. You'd be better off with a simple mount/sound dampening mount or fan cooler than an actual HDD waterblock. This, plus trying to run a parallel run off of your loop is really only asking for trouble with flow rates.
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post #8 of 16
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by rubix_1011 View Post
I'd skip the HDD block. You'd be better off with a simple mount/sound dampening mount or fan cooler than an actual HDD waterblock. This, plus trying to run a parallel run off of your loop is really only asking for trouble with flow rates.
With an HDD block you can put your hard drive in a foam lined steel box with no air holes, which is really the best way to deal with seek noises. Plus, I'm interested to see if I can make one for less than the more complex ones go for. If I go that route, I'd probably make it with smaller channels to suit my needs. If not, I'll just run it in serial. The sort of quietness I'm going for would be more commonly seen around the Silentpcreview forums, but there's not that much water cooling info over there.
    
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post #9 of 16
Outside of the old Raptor's or SCSI drives, most HDD's are very, very quiet.
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post #10 of 16
Ever heard of an SSD? A 60GB SSD for the OS would cost about as much as an HD waterblock + fittings + QDCs anyways. Then use a Caviar green drive for storage as they are silent.
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