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[Buildlog] Intel i7-980x FULL EK INSTALLATION *PICS*

post #1 of 17
Thread Starter 
So after installing my blocks onto my GTX 580s, I got to deal with this next project!

I must admit, it certainly was not as much fun. The EK directions are terrible so I feel bad for anybody who is limited to them.

I DID take the thing apart first and change out the jet plate but I did not take any pictures because trying to get that o-ring back on almost made me cry.

It was also quite difficult to figure out what went where and how to do everything so I will do my best to help you all who were also confused. I may have done something incorrectly so PLEASE CORRECT ME if that is the case.

Thanks all!

So here is the boxing of my new processor and motherboard:





Here is the processor in all of its glory. Kinda hard for me to believe that holding that thing in your hands is holding $1,000... What is the world coming to!?





Here's the motherboard. I already installed the processor but it was very easy. All you do is release the side clip and the clutch swings open. Then you place the processor in per your instructions and clamp it back down. Easy peezy!





Added some thermal paste:



Now it's time to install the block! I removed the sticky backing as shown:



Then I realized you can't really install it without the back plates, even though the directions say to install the block first. Makes no sense lol.

So I installed the provided rubber backing with the silver backplate and added the screws:





In the next picture, you can see them added. I also put the screws in to secure it in place.





Next, you add the nuts around each of the screws to hold them in place. I realized it is VERY IMPORTANT to tighten them (not too tight) just enough so that the screws themselves do not move around when you install the block. So by any means do not let them be lose. I would say hand tightening them as hard as possible would be ideal as long as you have the backplate installed.



Once all 4 nuts are installed, you add the 4 provided springs to each screw. This is important because it will allow you to leverage the block:





Then I added the 4 circular nuts. This is where you apply pressure. Keep in mind that this picture shows my block FULLY INSTALLED. I am not screwing more. This is because I do not want to apply too much pressure to the block and bend the board. Yeah, there is a backplate but still, the board can bend. The more pressure you can add, obviously the cooler your CPU will be. How tight should they be is a matter of opinion but I wouldn't really want to sacrifice a ~$300 board for a 2C change in temperature.



The end.

I hope that helps some of you. If anybody would have done it differently feel free to chime in!

Thanks for viewing!
post #2 of 17
Make sure you tighten those thumb nuts all the way down with your fingers! My temps dropped a good amount just from making sure that they were tight and the pressure was even when I had my wc loop running.

Nice rig though.
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Ryzen Build
(14 items)
 
Fiance's Rig
(12 items)
 
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
AMD Ryzen 5 1600 @ 3.8ghz ASUS ROG Strix B350-F ASUS ROG Strix RX 580 8GB @ 1480mhz Team T-Force Night Hawk RGB 2x8GB (coming soon) 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
SanDisk X400 512GB (custom enclosure) WD Blue 1TB | Raid 1 Deepcool Captain 240 RGB Windows 10 Pro 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
ViewSonic XG2701 Turbot Mechanical Keyboard EVGA SuperNova P2 650w NZXT S340 Elite 
MouseMouse Pad
Razer Deathadder Chroma Glorious PC Gaming Race Pad 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
Intel Core i5 2500K @ 4.6ghz ASRock Z68 Extreme3 Gen3 MSI HD 7850 2GB @ 1ghz Mushkin Ridgeline Series @ 1600mhz 
Hard DriveHard DriveCoolingOS
Intel 520 Series Western Digital Caviar Black Cryorig H7 Quad Lumi W/ Xigmatek Purple LED Windows 10 Pro 
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post #3 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Behemoth777 View Post
Make sure you tighten those thumb nuts all the way down with your fingers! My temps dropped a good amount just from making sure that they were tight and the pressure was even when I had my wc loop running.

Nice rig though.
Which thumb nuts? The ones above or below the springs?
post #4 of 17
thumb nuts are the ones that go on top, you use your "thumbs" to turn them .

btw, no ek full cover mb block for the R3E
post #5 of 17
Sexy!
looking forward to more pics
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post #6 of 17
Mmmmmmmm. Enjoy

Is that CPU box as big as it looks?
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Win 10 x64 LG E2350 23" 1920x1080 / Samsung 19.5" 1366x768 Razer Lycosa (Mirror Edition) Corsair HX850w 
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post #7 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by makecoldplayhistory View Post
Mmmmmmmm. Enjoy

Is that CPU box as big as it looks?
Yup, intel i7s have a huge cooler and hence box. My i7 950's retail box was more than twice as big as the retail box for my old amd 955BE
post #8 of 17
Thread Starter 
Haha yeah the box is big.

I did not want to go for a motherboard block, especially for the R3E, because it does an adequate enough job of cooling itself. Not to mention my 14 fans in the case itself.

I feel as if a motherboard block would just restrict my airflow and raise temperatures where my performance really matters. Ie: GPU, CPU.

Thanks for the comments!
post #9 of 17
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Behemoth777 View Post
Make sure you tighten those thumb nuts all the way down with your fingers! My temps dropped a good amount just from making sure that they were tight and the pressure was even when I had my wc loop running.

Nice rig though.
How tight did you tighten those top nuts down on the screws?
post #10 of 17
Quote:
Originally Posted by xyeLz View Post
How tight did you tighten those top nuts down on the screws?
Just tighten them as much as you can with your fingers, or until they hurt.
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