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post #16301 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Panther Al View Post

Nope, S&K was destroyed by Claude Fueger - A French guy that was brought in to run the company (Used to live in Defiance where they had a big plant), and is now off to another place where he is doing it again. The current S&K are made by a holding company using the S&K name - think they are made in China, or someplace out that way.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBaggins View Post

Ok so the stories were true they went under and someone else bought the name


That sucks, but good to know.
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ICE & SNOW
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post #16302 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by gdubc View Post

Bought by someone else but still made in USA. Forge plant in my state, down in Colorado Springs.
http://www.partsandpeople.com/sk-hand-tool’s-new-owner-commits-us-made-product-lineup


Also good to know.
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ICE & SNOW
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CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
XSPC EX360 Crossflow Performance PC's Uber 655 Fully Modded D5 ModMyToys Carbon Fiber Enhanced Compression Fit... Mayhems Pastel Coolant - 1 Liter - Blue Berry 
CoolingCoolingCoolingOS
PrimoFlex Advanced LRT 10ft Tubing - 7/16in. ID... EK-Supremacy EVO CPU Water Block - Nickel/Plexi EK-FC980 GTX Waterblock for Nvidia 980 GTX - Ni... Windows 8.1 Pro 
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post #16303 of 22267
Cs-X project
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post #16304 of 22267
Update





The Stock Cooler and mobo are temporary so no waterblock on the board

http://www.overclock.net/t/1497336/build-log-project-white-hawk-caselabs-mercury-s3/0_100
post #16305 of 22267
Went from this

to


My loop is pretty much done at this point & my custom cables just shipped today. Now I am looking into having a custom window & design cut into my side panel biggrin.gif

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post #16306 of 22267
Very nice. Doesn't need it but if interested search on ocn I forget the name by there is a thread to get downloads to print out custom psu graphics. That way it won't be upside down and can be made to the color choice that you want like green and black
    
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post #16307 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by ali13245 View Post

Hey guys can I use a pencil to mark the holes I want to drill in the case? Can I use an eraser to get rid of the stuff I wrote on the case, will it leave any marks on the case or ruin the powder coating?


Whenever I drill holes in something metal that I care about, I just lay down some masking tape over top. You can write on it 100 times over just peel it off if you make a mistake. If I have a lot of complex drilling I sketch it up and print out a template and tape it to where I am going to be drilling. I have a drill press but often there is no good way to use it. Lately my eyesight has been getting bad so I have to use a big magnifying desk lamp to get the center point of the drill bit right on the mark and all holes are piloted and anything bigger than 1/4" in sheet metal I use a step but. If it is crazy large, bigger than 3/4" then I use a hole punch. Now, a hole punch in thick aluminum can make a mess so be careful. But the last thing you want to do is just start drilling with a 13/16th in a cheap cordless drill lol. No offence to whoever that was.
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Boring Black
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post #16308 of 22267
If I drill through the masking tape, will the outcome be the same as without masking tape? I don't want the hole to look messed up after drilling. I'm also going to be using a 5/32" drill bit as my pilot, and I will be using this drill: http://www.homedepot.com/p/BLACK-DECKER-12-Volt-Ni-Cad-3-8-in-Cordless-Drill-with-Soft-Grips-GCO1200C/202891148
along with this step bit that I ordered: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00KKNYEY0?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

EDIT: since the bitspower passthrough hole is 20mm wide, can I just use the 20mm bit in the link above and drill all the way through?
post #16309 of 22267
The masking tape will stop the metal filings from scratching the paint but it won't affect the hole at all. Once the pilot is in, you can peel the tape off if you want. Sometimes the tape will get a bit of metal underneath it. after the pilot is drilled. I just peel it off and put new on. As far as drilling through with the step drill. They are designed that way. The last hole pops right through. I would practice on some scrap material to get a feel for it. Just pick up a piece of aluminum similar thickness from someplace like Home Cheapo or BLowes. It's not a skill that takes a lot of practice but if your not ready for it, you could make a mess the first time. It takes a fairly steady strong grip on the drill and the material. The last thing you want is for the material to start spinning around on you. But with aluminum and a step bit its a fairly easy task.

Edit to add. I know that drill! My Dad had one. When I was selling his house, I used it to hang some gutter up. Seemed to work fine. All you need is the chuck to be concentric and it was as good as anything I have used beyond a drill press or a router. Not a lot of power though. 20mm is a big arse hole.
Edited by BrokenPC - 10/1/15 at 1:43pm
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post #16310 of 22267
Thanks for clarifying this! What about the tools I listed above? Am I good to go with those? Also just to make sure again, So I drill the pilot, take off the tape, and then I can drill all the way through with just the 20mm step bit? Sorry for reiterating this question, I just want to make sure I do everything right.
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