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post #16851 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by ali13245 View Post

I'm not sure. If I were to take a guess... I would say around 20 inches or less. I can't measure it right now, because it is currently running in my system.

Well 80cm Cables are 31" And I have easily 10" Of Excess tucked away in the Lower compartment. I think 40cm Extensions would be just fine.

TCO
     
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post #16852 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

Well 80cm Cables are 31" And I have easily 10" Of Excess tucked away in the Lower compartment. I think 40cm Extensions would be just fine.

TCO

Thanks for the info thumb.gif
post #16853 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by ali13245 View Post

Thanks for the info thumb.gif

It was never a problem. biggrin.gif

TCO
     
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post #16854 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

While the modular concept is nice, they look butt fugly / too industrial to me. . . . . On the other hand . . .

The CCFL item you mention, could be really cool . . . . as it should work for almost any res.


Looks like he's been able to shrink the tube enclosure tube so that it's small enough to fit thru a G1/4 port.

A CCFL tube will fit in a 3/16 ID by 5/16 OD acrylic tube, which easily fits thru a G1/4 plug with a 5/16 hole in it.

I've made a couple prototypes along that line . . . . . . but, I only have clear 3/16 X 5/16 and

I'm still leery about having the free end where it's free to be moved about by the normal fluid currents and turbulence in the res.

Not to mention the stress that would be present if it was a long res in a horizontal configuration. . . . .

With the way I 've made mine, I can use CCFL lamps as easily as LED strips, they just slip in or out the end port, the big difference, a least to me, is that the dead end of the tube is indexed on a locating pin, so that high turbulence or horizontal configuration, even with a very long res doesn't stress the live end.

Bitspower 12mm tube comes in colors, so that if I wanted a solid color, I could use a CCFL and the appropriately colored tube.

The one thing nice about 12mm X 10mm tube is that it allows to double up the LED strip back to back, so it has twice as many leds as you see, plus the rear facing ones reflect a lot off the internal curvature of the res tube, so while you don't have the 360 degree emission of CCFL, it's not as unidirectional as you might imagine.


Here's a pair of 400 mm tubes with CCFLs instead of LED strips:



I have 2 x Bitspower 250 reservoirs and I installed the D5 pump mod and a Top Upgrade Kit as well, I did change out the original top to the 3 port top, but how did you run those through top to bottom? With the CCFL lighting, did you just find a tube long enough and put it inside to 10/12 acrylic tubing with some connectors on them? After installing the Pump Top Upgrade Kit, my 250 res only has one inlet/outlet at the bottom. So, I guess if I wanted to light up my res, my only option would be the acrylic fittings with LEDs in them, right? What you have setup there is exactly what I want, but I don't think there's any way with one port at the bottom of the res.
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White Lightning
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post #16855 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

While the modular concept is nice, they look butt fugly / too industrial to me. . . . . On the other hand . . .

The CCFL item you mention, could be really cool . . . . as it should work for almost any res.


Looks like he's been able to shrink the tube enclosure tube so that it's small enough to fit thru a G1/4 port.

A CCFL tube will fit in a 3/16 ID by 5/16 OD acrylic tube, which easily fits thru a G1/4 plug with a 5/16 hole in it.

I've made a couple prototypes along that line . . . . . . but, I only have clear 3/16 X 5/16 and

I'm still leery about having the free end where it's free to be moved about by the normal fluid currents and turbulence in the res.

Not to mention the stress that would be present if it was a long res in a horizontal configuration. . . . .

With the way I 've made mine, I can use CCFL lamps as easily as LED strips, they just slip in or out the end port, the big difference, a least to me, is that the dead end of the tube is indexed on a locating pin, so that high turbulence or horizontal configuration, even with a very long res doesn't stress the live end.

Bitspower 12mm tube comes in colors, so that if I wanted a solid color, I could use a CCFL and the appropriately colored tube.

The one thing nice about 12mm X 10mm tube is that it allows to double up the LED strip back to back, so it has twice as many leds as you see, plus the rear facing ones reflect a lot off the internal curvature of the res tube, so while you don't have the 360 degree emission of CCFL, it's not as unidirectional as you might imagine.


Here's a pair of 400 mm tubes with CCFLs instead of LED strips:

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

I have 2 x Bitspower 250 reservoirs and I installed the D5 pump mod and a Top Upgrade Kit as well, I did change out the original top to the 3 port top, but how did you run those through top to bottom? With the CCFL lighting, did you just find a tube long enough and put it inside to 10/12 acrylic tubing with some connectors on them? After installing the Pump Top Upgrade Kit, my 250 res only has one inlet/outlet at the bottom. So, I guess if I wanted to light up my res, my only option would be the acrylic fittings with LEDs in them, right? What you have setup there is exactly what I want, but I don't think there's any way with one port at the bottom of the res.


Here's how I did the mod with a single outlet at the bottom:

It needs a three port top, which you then have to mod, so the light tube is in the center, and you can still have a top fill / bleed / return.

You'll need the Bitspower large anti-cyclone fitting, as it's far less restrictive for the pump feed, and has thicker metal, which you have to drill and tap for the indexing pin.

I use M4 thread and cut a piece of stainless steel allen screw so it has enough threads to screw in, but not so long as they get into the flow path, and is unthreaded above where it screws in. . . . a bit of chamfer helps guide the light tube in easily

Screwing it in tight locks it in place.


On the top end cap;

You have to drill and tap a new G1/4 hole in the center.(that's the mod I mentioned earlier)

You can see in the pic that using a C47 fitting, there is still clearance for the aquapipe if you have a top return.

If you don't use a top return, then you have three options to use as a fill/bleed port, . . ..

But you need the new G1/4 hole in the center to line up with the single outlet at the other end



The end of the light tube itself has a C68 fitting, that's the female version of the C47, which you use with a stop plug with an LED recess in it.

It's that LED hole that sits on the indexing pin so the light tube can't be moved around by turbulence.

I keep a set of C47 and C68 fittings with the o rings removed, (each fitting is a dual o ring seal on the tubing) to quickly adjust the tubing length to get it exact . . . .

It's a bit of trial and error, I make it deliberately a few mm too long to start and then shorten a mm or two at a time.

It can't be too long so that it binds as you screw the caps on the res, but you don't want it more than a mm or two less than exact, as you want to be sure that there's no way that it could slip enough to where you don't have both o rings in each end fitting properly engaged.




It used to be that the Bitspower C47 and C68 fittings would work with the 12/10 sized E22 brand tubing, but not true any longer it seems . . . .

I have to use only Bitspower 12/10 tubing, or it doesn't fit in the C47/C68 fittings . . . even the ones with no o rings.

The 250 res will work out just right with 8" ccfl tubes, if you want ccfl over RGB led strips


So there you have it, easy peasy, if you have the tools, experience, and patience . . . The genius part's already been done . . . biggrin.gif

Darlene
Edited by IT Diva - 11/14/15 at 5:19am
post #16856 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by wadz1lla View Post

Is this a case labs custom version for the grill or just a normal 120/140.2?

I had them make me a custom sized one to my dimensions. I can dig up the order details if you need'em
post #16857 of 22267
That looks really good. With me, my biggest obstacle is going to be the patience part. I still have boxes arriving everyday, and Caselabs made a small mistake on my case order, but they took care of it pretty quick. I've had my TH10A for a few days now, and all I've been able to discuss is go through the parts and put them back in the box. One of the things I'm waiting for is the 120mm top. They sent the 31mm on accident.

One mod I'm wanting to do is cut a large section from the top (large enough to remove both vented grills) and replace that section with a piece of acrylic, so you would be able to see my new 480 rads and my new fans, but I'm not sure if I can cut, or how to cut, if it's doable, the center of the acrylic window allowing for ventilation for both of my 480 rads.

Has anyone molded the top section of a TH10A and replaced the entire vented area with a window? I'm thinking about doing this, but I want to keep my 2 x 480mm rads up top so the acrylic will need some sort of ventilation. I even thought about replacing the entire top with a large sheet of acrylic, or any other see through material that I could ventilate. I'm not sure if cutting slits would work or if cutting small holes in the top, random holes all over, would better for ventilation. If anyone has done something similar, I'd like to know how you did it, if no one has done it, then, of course, I'd like to get some suggestions.

I'm far from that part though since I'm still getting parts in.
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White Lightning
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The Devil's Fury
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Intel i7-5960X  Asus X99-Deluxe EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti Superclocked  EVGA GeForce GTX 780 Ti Superclocked  
RAMHard DriveHard DriveHard Drive
Corsair Vengeance LPX 2800 DDR4  Samsung XP941 M.2 PCIe SSD 256GB Samsung 840 Pro SSD 256GB Seagate Hybrid ST2000DX 2TB  
Hard DriveOptical DriveOptical DriveCooling
Hitachi 1TB SCSI III Asus BC-12B1ST LG CD/DVDRAM  Koolance 380i 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK Ultimate Performance 360 XTX Series Coolstre... EK MultiOption Res X3 250 6 Total Ports Koolance QD3 Quick Disconnects  Koolance INS-FM16 Flow Meter w/ Digital Display  
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
8 Aerocool Dead Silence 120mm fans 2 Aerocool Dead Silence 140mm fans EK Nvidia 780 Ti Full Waterblock with backplate... EK Nvidia 780 Ti Full Waterblock with backplate... 
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EK-FC Terminal Dual Parallel 3 slot Acetal  EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ-Laing D5 & Swif... EK Ultimate Performance 480 XTX Series Coolstre... Windows 7 x64 
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U28D590D - Samsung UHD 28” Monitor with Metalli... HP 2311x 1920x1080 HP ZR2740w 27-inch LED Backlit IPS Monitor 2560... Corsair Vengeance K70 RGB keyboard 
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LG Blu-ray Burner 3 x Aquacomputer Poweradjust Ultras  Hardware Labs SR2 480mm  Alphacool NexXxoS Monsta 360mm radiator Special... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
32 x Enermax T.B. Vegas 120mm fans  4 x SilverStone FQ122 120mm fans 2 x Bitspower Z-Multi 250 reservoirs 2 x Bitspower D5 Acrylic Pump Tops 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
2 x Swiftech MPC655 Pumps 2 x Bitspower Single D5 Pump Upgrade Kit  EK-FB X99 Nickel + Acrylic Monoblock  2 x EK-FC 980 GTX Ti WF3 Nickel + Plexi waterbl... 
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EK MultiOption Res X3 250 Liquid Cooling Reserv... Bitspower G1/4" Matte Black Temperature Sensor ... Koolance-380i Intel Liquid Cooling CPU Block  EK GeForce 780 GTX Ti VGA Liquid Cooling Block ... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK D5 X-Top Acetal Pump Top CSQ - Laing D5 & Sw... EK Asus Maximus VI Formula Liquid Cooling Block... EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 480 XTX Seri... EK Ultimate Performance CoolStream 360 XTX Seri... 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
PrimoChill PrimoFlex Advanced LRT Tubing 3/8" I... Koolance INS-FM19 Coolant Flow Meter w/ flow me... Cougar 120mm X 25mm CFD Series LED Fan - Green ... Cougar 140mm X 25mm CFD Series LED Fan - Green ... 
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Microsoft Windows 7 Ultimate x64 HP ZR2740w 27" LED Backlit IPS Monitor HP 2311x LED Backlit LCD Monitor - 2ea Corsair K70 RGB 
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Corsair AX1200i Digital ATX/EPS Modular 80 Plus... Little Devil PC-V8 Black on Green  Corsair M65 Razer Vespula 
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post #16858 of 22267
Hi here,

My little baby: My mod cold hell on Case labs TX-10-v.
Custom made are in progress and build log will be on the site shortly.










The best purchase I ever made!
post #16859 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

That looks really good. With me, my biggest obstacle is going to be the patience part. I still have boxes arriving everyday, and Caselabs made a small mistake on my case order, but they took care of it pretty quick. I've had my TH10A for a few days now, and all I've been able to discuss is go through the parts and put them back in the box. One of the things I'm waiting for is the 120mm top. They sent the 31mm on accident.

One mod I'm wanting to do is cut a large section from the top (large enough to remove both vented grills) and replace that section with a piece of acrylic, so you would be able to see my new 480 rads and my new fans, but I'm not sure if I can cut, or how to cut, if it's doable, the center of the acrylic window allowing for ventilation for both of my 480 rads.

Has anyone molded the top section of a TH10A and replaced the entire vented area with a window? I'm thinking about doing this, but I want to keep my 2 x 480mm rads up top so the acrylic will need some sort of ventilation. I even thought about replacing the entire top with a large sheet of acrylic, or any other see through material that I could ventilate. I'm not sure if cutting slits would work or if cutting small holes in the top, random holes all over, would better for ventilation. If anyone has done something similar, I'd like to know how you did it, if no one has done it, then, of course, I'd like to get some suggestions.

I'm far from that part though since I'm still getting parts in.


How are the rads going to work, if you can't move any air thru them because you replaced the ventilated grill with a solid window . . . . yea, you gotta have it vented somehow, for sure

What would be a cool way to do it, would be to have the acrylic laser cut with inter-laced slots, about 5mm wide by 5mm apart, so you'd still have airflow, and yet total see thru.


In truth, once there's some light behind the ventilated panel, it is amazingly see thru.


D.
Edited by IT Diva - 11/15/15 at 9:16am
post #16860 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by waterclocker View Post

Hi here,

My little baby: My mod cold hell on Case labs TX-10-v.
Custom made are in progress and build log will be on the site shortly.










The best purchase I ever made!

Another TX brotha and some pics! Looking forward to the build-log thumb.gif
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