Originally Posted by rolldog
Originally Posted by IT Diva
While the modular concept is nice, they look butt fugly / too industrial to me. . . . . On the other hand . . .
The CCFL item you mention, could be really cool . . . . as it should work for almost any res.
Looks like he's been able to shrink the tube enclosure tube so that it's small enough to fit thru a G1/4 port.
A CCFL tube will fit in a 3/16 ID by 5/16 OD acrylic tube, which easily fits thru a G1/4 plug with a 5/16 hole in it.
I've made a couple prototypes along that line . . . . . . but, I only have clear 3/16 X 5/16 and
I'm still leery about having the free end where it's free to be moved about by the normal fluid currents and turbulence in the res.
Not to mention the stress that would be present if it was a long res in a horizontal configuration. . . . .
With the way I 've made mine, I can use CCFL lamps as easily as LED strips, they just slip in or out the end port, the big difference, a least to me, is that the dead end of the tube is indexed on a locating pin, so that high turbulence or horizontal configuration, even with a very long res doesn't stress the live end.
Bitspower 12mm tube comes in colors, so that if I wanted a solid color, I could use a CCFL and the appropriately colored tube.
The one thing nice about 12mm X 10mm tube is that it allows to double up the LED strip back to back, so it has twice as many leds as you see, plus the rear facing ones reflect a lot off the internal curvature of the res tube, so while you don't have the 360 degree emission of CCFL, it's not as unidirectional as you might imagine.
Here's a pair of 400 mm tubes with CCFLs instead of LED strips:Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
I have 2 x Bitspower 250 reservoirs and I installed the D5 pump mod and a Top Upgrade Kit as well, I did change out the original top to the 3 port top, but how did you run those through top to bottom? With the CCFL lighting, did you just find a tube long enough and put it inside to 10/12 acrylic tubing with some connectors on them? After installing the Pump Top Upgrade Kit, my 250 res only has one inlet/outlet at the bottom. So, I guess if I wanted to light up my res, my only option would be the acrylic fittings with LEDs in them, right? What you have setup there is exactly what I want, but I don't think there's any way with one port at the bottom of the res.
Here's how I did the mod with a single outlet at the bottom:
It needs a three port top, which you then have to mod, so the light tube is in the center, and you can still have a top fill / bleed / return.
You'll need the Bitspower large anti-cyclone fitting, as it's far less restrictive for the pump feed, and has thicker metal, which you have to drill and tap for the indexing pin.
I use M4 thread and cut a piece of stainless steel allen screw so it has enough threads to screw in, but not so long as they get into the flow path, and is unthreaded above where it screws in. . . . a bit of chamfer helps guide the light tube in easily
Screwing it in tight locks it in place.
On the top end cap;
You have to drill and tap a new G1/4 hole in the center.(that's the mod I mentioned earlier)
You can see in the pic that using a C47 fitting, there is still clearance for the aquapipe if you have a top return.
If you don't use a top return, then you have three options to use as a fill/bleed port, . . ..
But you need the new G1/4 hole in the center to line up with the single outlet at the other end
The end of the light tube itself has a C68 fitting, that's the female version of the C47, which you use with a stop plug with an LED recess in it.
It's that LED hole that sits on the indexing pin so the light tube can't be moved around by turbulence.
I keep a set of C47 and C68 fittings with the o rings removed, (each fitting is a dual o ring seal on the tubing) to quickly adjust the tubing length to get it exact . . . .
It's a bit of trial and error, I make it deliberately a few mm too long to start and then shorten a mm or two at a time.
It can't be too long so that it binds as you screw the caps on the res, but you don't want it more than a mm or two less than exact, as you want to be sure that there's no way that it could slip enough to where you don't have both o rings in each end fitting properly engaged.
It used to be that the Bitspower C47 and C68 fittings would work with the 12/10 sized E22 brand tubing, but not true any longer it seems . . . .
I have to use only Bitspower 12/10 tubing, or it doesn't fit in the C47/C68 fittings . . . even the ones with no o rings.
The 250 res will work out just right with 8" ccfl tubes, if you want ccfl over RGB led strips
So there you have it, easy peasy, if you have the tools, experience, and patience . . . The genius part's already been done . . .
DarleneEdited by IT Diva - 11/14/15 at 5:19am