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post #17081 of 22268
I believe its the windows on both sides plus youtubes antishake enhancement making an illusion. I thought it looked cool like an acid flashback.
post #17082 of 22268
Quote:
Originally Posted by funfordcobra View Post

I believe its the windows on both sides plus youtubes antishake enhancement making an illusion. I thought it looked cool like an acid flashback.

Ok. I don't think it is the windows on your S8 ... the outside of the case is distorted. It reminded me of some of the Star Trek effects on voyager.
post #17083 of 22268
Quote:
Originally Posted by Zhinjio View Post

PERFECT! Thank you. I would also prefer not to have to drill new holes through the bottom of the case, so I'll also attempt tapping the acrylic for the bracket screws, as well as tapping the screws that will come up from underneath to hold the acrylic in place.

What, may I ask, are you using to tap the screw holes into the acrylic? I'm planning to incorporate some acrylic into my new build, but I've never worked with acrylic before. When mounting the acrylic, should the screws go all the way through or just partly into the acrylic so it'll hold? One thing I thought I would ask is I'm planning to attach some acrylic sheets to the double reservoir mounts on the chassis divider in the TH10A. Since I'll have 2 x 250mm reservoirs, 2 x Aquacool D5 Pumps, 2 x Bitspower D5 Mod Tops, 2 x Bitspower Pump Mod upgrade kits, and 2 x D5 Update Kits, the two of these will probably have a good bit of weight. So, if I want to cover the double reservoir mounts inside the case with an acrylic sheet, should the acrylic sheet be secured to the reservoir mounts, and then, when mounting the reservoir/pump/ pump top be secured to the acrylic and the reservoir mounts, since the reservoir mounts are removable? I was thinking about putting a hole through the acrylic sheet and the reservoir mounts, use screws long enough to go through both, and then using something similar to lock nuts to secure everything but the lock nuts would have to be small enough to fit behind the reservoir mounts to remain out of site.

If this sounds like the correct way to do this, or if you have other suggestions to keep everything more secure, please let me know. And fyi, the tops of my reservoirs will be connected to the fill ports added to the top of my case.
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post #17084 of 22268
Quote:
Originally Posted by funfordcobra View Post

Some1 said my s8 was too big and fugly. I wanted to punch them.
https://m.youtube.com/watch?v=JWc0LXU8Ph4
Do it.tongue.gif
Nice video of the build, and that Acer Predator, whoa!thumb.gif
    
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post #17085 of 22268
Well I deleted his comment and banned him lol
post #17086 of 22268
Lol he was a "special" individual, never saw if they responded to what they were running either
 
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post #17087 of 22268
Completed Pics of My build that I finished in April




















post #17088 of 22268
@StuttgartRob, looks great! Btw, you have 2 of my favorite PC parts in this build: a CL case, of course, and the amazing Aquaero (looks to be the 6 XT varient). Awesome! smile.gif
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post #17089 of 22268
I have a dilemma. After getting a little buyer's remorse because I didn't order my case in a reverse setup, Diva told me about the conversion kit that Caselabs sells so the TH10A can be converted later on. So, of course, I ordered it. Luckily, I'm still waiting on some parts from overseas so I haven't done much with my build yet. One thing I did do is add my fill ports to the case, which are exactly in line where the screw holes are for the reverse conversion. So, I'm going to have to move my fill ports. That's going to leave me with 2 holes in the top of my case.

I'm looking for a little advice on what I should do about this. Since I'm mounting 2 x 480mm rads in push/pull on top of my case, I added a 120mm top. I kept the top as is and put the fill ports under it. Has anyone ever tried using Bondo on their case to mod it or to cover up holes? I'm just wondering if I should try patching them, and if so, would Bondo stick? Of course, I didn't plan to powdercoat the Bondo so it'll still be noticeable, but not as noticeable as 2 holes. Usually, the holes wouldn't be seen because of the top, but I was thinking about cutting out the top and replacing it with acrylic, that's been laser cut for ventilation.

So, I could either try patching the holes or not adding the acrylic top. If anyone has ever tried using Bondo to mod their case please let me know.
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The Devil's Fury
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post #17090 of 22268
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

I have a dilemma. After getting a little buyer's remorse because I didn't order my case in a reverse setup, Diva told me about the conversion kit that Caselabs sells so the TH10A can be converted later on. So, of course, I ordered it. Luckily, I'm still waiting on some parts from overseas so I haven't done much with my build yet. One thing I did do is add my fill ports to the case, which are exactly in line where the screw holes are for the reverse conversion. So, I'm going to have to move my fill ports. That's going to leave me with 2 holes in the top of my case.

I'm looking for a little advice on what I should do about this. Since I'm mounting 2 x 480mm rads in push/pull on top of my case, I added a 120mm top. I kept the top as is and put the fill ports under it. Has anyone ever tried using Bondo on their case to mod it or to cover up holes? I'm just wondering if I should try patching them, and if so, would Bondo stick? Of course, I didn't plan to powdercoat the Bondo so it'll still be noticeable, but not as noticeable as 2 holes. Usually, the holes wouldn't be seen because of the top, but I was thinking about cutting out the top and replacing it with acrylic, that's been laser cut for ventilation.

So, I could either try patching the holes or not adding the acrylic top. If anyone has ever tried using Bondo to mod their case please let me know.

order replacement panel when you order reverse hardware, and just replace the panel that has holes in it?
     
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