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post #19781 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

It is. You will need a little bit of space to assemble the case, then once you have it made you will immediately start to look around trying to figure out where you are going to put it.

TCO

Yes, but once it's together and you actually start installing components, modding, cable management, etc, your space will gradually increase without even noticing until one day you try walking across the room of spare parts, extra cables, screws, anything you think that you might need, then you realize that you've taken over the entire room.
Quote:
Originally Posted by sexpot View Post

I saw those too on Titan Rig. I can maybe sorta live with the Gunmetal colour, but the price hike from say Performance PCs is a lot higher than what I'm willing to pay now. mad.gif

Ever since Titan Rig started selling watercooling parts on Amazon, now everyone is jumping on the bandwagon. I remember when Amazon had zero watercooling components. Now, even Bitspower is selling parts themselves on Amazon.
Quote:
Originally Posted by _Killswitch_ View Post

Hey everyone, I have a tiny question, anyone know a place that make's Lightbox's for caselabs cases (more so the STH10) Always liked them from Murderbox/Xforma now i guess. I'm not that "mod" smart to try to make one myself =S

Coldzero
Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

Yes, I'm a girl, akira, in spite of a name that can kinda go either way, is very much a guy.

The internet can be so confusing at times . . . .


Caselabs uses 6-32 pretty universally, except for the caster attachment, so if you want to mount the res panel, or a custom acrylic one, out away from the back wall, just check www.mcmaster.com . . for the hardware to make life easier.

D.

I'm working on a custom acrylic mount for my 2 x Bitspower 250mm reservoirs with the Bitspower Mod Top Upgrade. I removed the reservoir mounting plate completely, and I'm using a white sheet of acrylic since I have a white case, and 1" nylon spacers between the mid plate and the acrylic which each screw on the mounting brackets will go through and give everything more support. It's an inch off the mid plate so the tops of my reservoirs will match up with my fill ports, and the sheet of acrylic I'm using is twice the size of the Caselabs double reservoir mounting plate, which makes it blend in better and gives me some room to hide cables behind it.

One thing I'm struggling with right now is mounting the brackets for both pump/res combos in the exact spot so they are both exactly straight, evenly spaced, and the tops of the reservoirs match up with my fill ports. I've already wasted 3 sheets of acrylic trying to get the brackets mounted in the exact spot where they need to be, and each one takes a couple of hours to get just right, rather, what I think is just right. I haven't worked on it in a couple of days because I got too frustrated.

I have another question I'm hoping someone can answer for me. In my TH10A, the sliding MB tray has 2 pieces to it. The piece that the MB mounts to and another piece that attaches to the backside. I'm trying to add some lighting under the MB, but in order to do this, I need taller standoffs. I noticed that the MB tray is screwed onto the back, where the PCs slot covers are. Does anyone know if the MB tray can be removed from the back with the PCs slot covers are, flipped over, remove the other side of the MB tray, and then mount my MB to the back side of the MB tray? If I just add taller standoffs, then the MB will be too high to match up with the IO plate on the back and too high for my GPUs & NVMe SSD to screw down into the PCI slot. If I flip the MB upside down, it looks like it will lower the MB some so after adding taller standoffs, it should hopefully be the correct height for the MB to fit to the back IO panel and PCI slot covers.

I hope this makes sense. If anyone has any suggestions about an easier way to mount my pump/res brackets or with the MB tray, I would love to hear some ideas. I've wasted enough time on this and would like to get my rig running soon. Thanks.

Here's a picture of how I've setup both of my reservoirs. I drilled fill ports on top of the case and drilled holes in the chassis divider for my return lines. Both of them hook together before attaching to the top of my reservoirs. As long as I put a stop fitting in my fill ports when I'm finished filling my loops, this should be ok, right?
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post #19782 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by XNine View Post

Keep in mind, you'll need similar hardware for each set up (a reservoir, radiator, pump, block, and ideally a drain valve too) if you're going to do a dual loop. A D5 will handle a single loop in a case like the SMA8 without issue. If you're going for redundancy then you'll just need a single reservoir and dual pumps, but that's a little crazy, as D5s are extremely reliable (I've had a D5 go through 6 different builds without issue, and it could probably keep going, but it's on storage).

Thanks! I guess I'll just use one pump for 3 big rads biggrin.gif
post #19783 of 22477
I might get a pedestal for my SM8. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas to hide the idea that it's two separate units. Trying to make it look like one unit. Like some kind a blending tape or something higher quality.

One small side question: What tubing size does everyone recommend using for a SM8 Case (Acrylic 16, 14 or 12mm(Don't think Bitspower makes 13mm).
post #19784 of 22477
Do you think the way I have my loops coming back to my reservoir are ok?
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White Lightning
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post #19785 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by rolldog View Post

Do you think the way I have my loops coming back to my reservoir are ok?



When you have your fill ports open, I would not be surprised if you get a lot of splash, or spitting up . . .

I'd be sure to attach some short lengths of tubing, (at least 8 to 10 inches or so) to a barb fitting as an extension to the fill ports before powering up the pumps.

Once you get all the air out, the issue should mitigate, but having an air pocket burp up thru a tube filled with incoming coolant makes for a big mess.. . . . best to be able to direct it away from the system with extension tubes before it happens . . .

I've always had the return come directly to the res, and fills/vents always as a separate connection to the top of the res, specifically to try to avoid what I just described.

D.
Edited by IT Diva - 9/1/16 at 2:15am
post #19786 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

I might get a pedestal for my SM8. I was wondering if anyone has any ideas to hide the idea that it's two separate units. Trying to make it look like one unit. Like some kind a blending tape or something higher quality.

One small side question: What tubing size does everyone recommend using for a SM8 Case (Acrylic 16, 14 or 12mm(Don't think Bitspower makes 13mm).
I was thinking of switching to 16mm tubing in my sm8. If you don't have fittings yet I think 14mmnwould be the sweet spot but sucks they do t have a lot of types of 14mm where 12mm you have a huge selection. Here is 12mm for reference.
    
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post #19787 of 22477

Do have to say 16mm would look nicer, still debating it mysefl but I'm having a fun time trying to find a block that will work w/ my Ref 390x

     
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post #19788 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarthBaggins View Post

Do have to say 16mm would look nicer, still debating it mysefl but I'm having a fun time trying to find a block that will work w/ my Ref 390x

16mm for some reason just looks to thick. I do have a bent or two that's a bit tight. I might go with 12mm. Since I still have a few 12mm fittings left over from my other PC.

Still not 100% sure what to go with. Why does their have to be so many sizes.


I would like to go with 14mm. It seems only Bitspower supports that size.
post #19789 of 22477
Hey i was wondering if anyone in here could give me an idea of how much paint i will need to paint my th10a with ped and extended top? I will only be painting the outside panel's and leaving the inside black. Thanks!
post #19790 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

16mm for some reason just looks to thick. I do have a bent or two that's a bit tight. I might go with 12mm. Since I still have a few 12mm fittings left over from my other PC.

Still not 100% sure what to go with. Why does their have to be so many sizes.


I would like to go with 14mm. It seems only Bitspower supports that size.
Bits power , barrow , and Xspc support 14mm
    
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