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post #19811 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by DrFreeman35 View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by IT Diva View Post

So my edge emitting, addressable, LED strip finally got here after wandering around the wrong postal facilities in Puerto Rico for a while, and so I did a little mock-up to see how it was going to work out for my lighted midplates in my S5 and S8S builds.

Used the same thickness acrylic as I did for the midplates and tomorrow, I want to see if it makes any difference if I flame polish the surfaces that the LEDs shine into.

The controller has 300 possible sequences if you count the color variations to base sequences, so I set it on auto to get the video, not the most appropriate sequences, but you get the idea.

It also lets me save up to 16 favorites.

This little test run has the strip connection at the lower left corner, but for the actual midplate, there will be 2 strips that start at the front center, move outward and down each side, and come together at the rear, right in front of the mobo tray.

Altogether, its about 7/16" thick, but it could be made a lot thinner, if it wasn't meant to be drilled and tapped to have pumps and heat exchangers fastened to it.

Anyway, always fun working on new ideas . . .

Darlene


Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)






Very nice, that is some lovely lighting.


Thanks,

You'd think from the dark background that I'd done the pics/vid with the lights out, but actually, they were all done in a very bright room.

It's quite surprising just how much light comes from that relatively small number of LEDs

It looks like I have enough mirror on hand to do the midplate in the S8S today, I can't wait to see how it looks in its real setting.


To answer @XNine about the controller,

One thing to keep in mind, is that for addressable LED strip, most of it is designed to operate from a 5V source, which means that all else being equal, it'll draw about 2.5 times the current of a 12V strip.

For each LED, each of the junctions, (R, G, & B) each draw 0.020A, (20ma) at full brightness, so that's 60ma per LED when white.

That makes the current for 100 LEDS about 6A.


The controller itself is an inexpensive item from Amazon.

I've tried several different offerings and found one that so far, has always worked, once it was "fixed".

The problem with all the mini controllers is that they try to put too much in too little space, and do it super cheap, at the expense of whether it actually works as buyers expect.

The connector on the controller is always the wrong gender for the one on the "input" end of the LED strip, and the strip won't work if the controller is connected to the "output" end.

If you want to use the connectors that come with it, you have to unsolder and re-solder the connectors to the right ends of the strip.

The second problem is that the way they come, all the power, both for the controller and for the strip, has to be carried by traces on the controller PCB.

For a small number of LEDS, up to about 36 or so, (maybe 50ish max) this doesn't seem to be too big of an issue, but once you get beyond that, the traces can no longer carry that much current, and the controller PCB gets really hot and you get major voltage drop, which then means the IC chip at each LED doesn't get enough voltage and either the LEDS lock up or weird stuff happens, none of it good.

For large numbers of LEDs, you have to power the strip directly, and with a gage of wire sufficient for the load based on the number of LEDs.

Then also power the controller from the same source.


Here's a pic of the controller that was running the little mock-up panel, (the lower one with the label and heat shrink) and a different brand I tried, ( upper one, that was crap right out of the chute) that I cut the heatshrink off of to show the parts. That one also was rewired so the power did not have to come thru the controller PCB traces to get to the strip.





Conversely, here's the same controller as the mock-up uses, properly set up, which runs all 576 LEDS on 4, one meter long strips of 144 LEDs each, which is about a 35A draw from a 5V source.





D.
Edited by IT Diva - 9/4/16 at 7:36am
post #19812 of 22477
I don't think anyone can answer that question. I mean, are you using rattle cans? Automotive paint? What kind of sprayer? How many coats? Will you be putting in a clear coat? Are you stripping the panels first? There's just too many variables to give a good answer to that question, unfortunately

Yeah true thanks for the replying anyway. I will be using automotive paint 2 layers sanding back the black and putting primer on and clear coat. Anyway i understand if no one can give me a clear answer i just wanted a rough estimate as the paint im getting is quite pricey think il go with 500Ml and hope for the best!
post #19813 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by ezzdwag View Post

I don't think anyone can answer that question. I mean, are you using rattle cans? Automotive paint? What kind of sprayer? How many coats? Will you be putting in a clear coat? Are you stripping the panels first? There's just too many variables to give a good answer to that question, unfortunately

Yeah true thanks for the replying anyway. I will be using automotive paint 2 layers sanding back the black and putting primer on and clear coat. Anyway i understand if no one can give me a clear answer i just wanted a rough estimate as the paint im getting is quite pricey think il go with 500Ml and hope for the best!

Always buy more than you need, nothing worse than running out of paint half way through because that creates and uneven coat and means more sanding especially if you're going for a high quality finish which I'm guessing by what you've said that may be what you're aiming for.

Bill Owen from MNPCTech has done a great video on achieving a mirror like finish with rattle cans if you haven't already seen it.
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 4670k Asus Maximus VII Ranger MSI GTX 970 Hyper X Savage  
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Custom Loop 
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FX8350 Asus Sabretooth 990FX R2.0 EVGA GTX970 FTW Hyper x HX324C11SRK2/16 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK AMD LTX XSPC Nylon Dual 5.25 Reservoir Inc Laing D5  Coolgate Triple HD360 Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm 
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Windows 7 Ultimate Samsung SyncMaster 2032BW Carbide Series® 500R White Mid-Tower Case 
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Kraken
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500R Chernobyl
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
i5 4670k Asus Maximus VII Ranger MSI GTX 970 Hyper X Savage  
Cooling
Custom Loop 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
FX8350 Asus Sabretooth 990FX R2.0 EVGA GTX970 FTW Hyper x HX324C11SRK2/16 
CoolingCoolingCoolingCooling
EK AMD LTX XSPC Nylon Dual 5.25 Reservoir Inc Laing D5  Coolgate Triple HD360 Alphacool NexXxoS XT45 Full Copper 240mm 
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Windows 7 Ultimate Samsung SyncMaster 2032BW Carbide Series® 500R White Mid-Tower Case 
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post #19814 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Snaporz View Post

Have been too lazy to post my completed rig.







wow very nice
Black and Blue
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Intel Core i7-6950X 25M Broadwell-E 10-Core 3.0... ASUS RAMPAGE V EDITION 10 LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99... EVGA GeForce GTX TITAN X 12G-P4-2992-KR 12GB SC... EVGA GeForce GTX TITAN X 12G-P4-2992-KR 12GB SC... 
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G.SKILL TridentZ Series 64GB (8 x 8GB) 288-Pin ... SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 512GB SATA III 3-D Vertica... SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 1TB SATA III 3-D Vertical ... ekwb 560 
OSMonitorPowerCase
Windows 10 Predator Z35 BMIPHZ 35C Monitor EVGA 220-P2-1600-X1 80 PLUS Platinum 1600 W 10 ... Case Labs SMA8 
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Intel Core i7-6950X 25M Broadwell-E 10-Core 3.0... ASUS RAMPAGE V EDITION 10 LGA 2011-v3 Intel X99... EVGA GeForce GTX TITAN X 12G-P4-2992-KR 12GB SC... EVGA GeForce GTX TITAN X 12G-P4-2992-KR 12GB SC... 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
G.SKILL TridentZ Series 64GB (8 x 8GB) 288-Pin ... SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 512GB SATA III 3-D Vertica... SAMSUNG 850 PRO 2.5" 1TB SATA III 3-D Vertical ... ekwb 560 
OSMonitorPowerCase
Windows 10 Predator Z35 BMIPHZ 35C Monitor EVGA 220-P2-1600-X1 80 PLUS Platinum 1600 W 10 ... Case Labs SMA8 
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post #19815 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

Always buy more than you need, nothing worse than running out of paint half way through because that creates and uneven coat and means more sanding especially if you're going for a high quality finish which I'm guessing by what you've said that may be what you're aiming for.

Bill Owen from MNPCTech has done a great video on achieving a mirror like finish with rattle cans if you haven't already seen it.
Thanks dude il check it out. yeah im hoping that is more than il need. The reson i ask is iv only ever used cans but i dare not touch this case with cans tongue.gif
post #19816 of 22477
Anyone know what parts I would need to make my SMA8 reversed?
post #19817 of 22477
I'm about to start a new build (last build was i7-4770k in a Antec P280) and have decided to use a CaseLabs Mercury S8 with pedestal. But sadly CaseLabs site said they have temporarily suspended custom orders. Does anyone here know for how long? Does not say on site...In the interim, I have a empty Cooler Master HAF XB I can play around with 'til I can get a S8...
post #19818 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by ali13245 View Post

Anyone know what parts I would need to make my SMA8 reversed?

You will need the front, rear, divider , top and mid plate. everything has to be reverse.
Edited by taskforce809 - 9/4/16 at 1:45pm
post #19819 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by taskforce809 View Post

You will need the front, rear, divider , top and mid plate. everything has to be reverse.

Cool. Thanks thumb.gif
post #19820 of 22477
Quote:
Originally Posted by ali13245 View Post

Cool. Thanks thumb.gif

Are you planning on order the parts? I want to do the same with my sma8, but I was looking at how much will it cost and probably is better buying a new one.
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