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post #20121 of 22469
Quote:
Originally Posted by rioja View Post

I found his build log, it seems he painted impellers in white and red was from the beginning

And I wonder is it possible to paint rubber corners so that it were feel of quality like from factory?

It might be possible to dye them but it depends on the base colour from the factory really.
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post #20122 of 22469


Any ideas on how to route the cables from main case to a bottom pedestal without it being messy (without modding)? Right now It looks like I'm going have to cut a hole behind the pumps.
post #20123 of 22469
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

ah! good picture... just what I forgot to add into the cart.
some cable ties thingy like the ones you have in your photo.
Did you buy those separately? or did they come with the fan / case ?
My case hasn't arrived yet, so I 've no idea, but my fans didn't come with any sort of cable ties

Wiring P Clips are used, bought separately thumb.gif


Quote:
Originally Posted by rioja View Post

Х
How did you get these red corners?
@willemdoom's reply is correct, they started life as 1600 rpm Phobya eLoops which have red corners and a translucent red blade assembly.
I painted the blade assembly white.
Quote:
Originally Posted by willemdoom View Post

He painted red phobya eloops white.
Indeed I did biggrin.gif
Quote:
Originally Posted by rioja View Post

I found his build log, it seems he painted impellers in white and red was from the beginning

And I wonder is it possible to paint rubber corners so that it were feel of quality like from factory?
color change of silicone is very difficult.
Quote:
Originally Posted by TheCautiousOne View Post

I doubt the paint would stay, and or get all over your fingers while handling the fans.
TCO

Plasti-Dip may work, other paints, not a chance.
Quote:
Originally Posted by Benjiw View Post

It might be possible to dye them but it depends on the base colour from the factory really.
silicone does not dye, I tired dying the red corners black.
Super Black dye mix I used for dying plastic connectors, did not penetrate the eLoop corners at all.
(and then I researched it - LOL - it may indeed be possible with hair dye

Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)

Any ideas on how to route the cables from main case to a bottom pedestal without it being messy (without modding)? Right now It looks like I'm going have to cut a hole behind the pumps.
Cutting a hole is almost essential for you.
Test fit all you hardware first and try to envisage where other cabling, tubing ect might be required, so you choose a hole location in the most inconspicuous spot that will NOT interfere with anything else above or below.
and be sure to finish off the cut with some rubber edge molding wink.gif
Edited by fast_fate - 9/28/16 at 10:13pm
post #20124 of 22469
Quote:
Cutting a hole is almost essential for you.
Test fit all you hardware first and try to envisage where other cabling, tubing ect might be required, so you choose a hole location in the most inconspicuous spot that will NOT interfere with anything else above or below.
and be sure to finish off the cut with some rubber edge molding wink.gif

Already bought some off of Case-Labs. Any recommendations on the tool or saw I should grab to fit in the small area?
post #20125 of 22469
Quote:
Originally Posted by Revan654 View Post

Already bought some off of Case-Labs. Any recommendations on the tool or saw I should grab to fit in the small area?

Remove the panel if able to do so,
otherwise remove ALL hardware and flip the case upside down (assuming the hole in question is to be installed in the chassis floor.)
Ensure a thorough clean out afterwards to remove ALL metal cuttings, pieces of wet paper towel placed down before commencing the cut will make clean up much easier thumb.gif

EDIT: the CL rubber edging is probably too thick for small holes and you'll need to purchase a round rubber pass through grommet suitable for your hole size



Step drill is the preferred tool for this job.



however a small hole saw can be used for the job, just make sure the bit is suitable for metal (some are timber only)


Edited by fast_fate - 9/29/16 at 12:36am
post #20126 of 22469
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post

Remove the panel if able to do so,
otherwise remove ALL hardware and flip the case upside down (assuming the hole in question is to be installed in the chassis floor.)
Ensure a thorough clean out afterwards to remove ALL metal cuttings, pieces of wet paper towel placed down before commencing the cut will make clean up much easier thumb.gif

EDIT: the CL rubber edging is probably too thick for small holes and you'll need to purchase a round rubber pass through grommet suitable for your hole size



Step drill is the preferred tool for this job.



however a small hole saw can be used for the job, just make sure the bit is suitable for metal (some are timber only)


I'm going for a larger hole so everything can fit through it including the 26 pin ATX (My PSU uses 26). I have a Dremel along with some Metal Cutting blade. I was thinking of using that so I don't have to buy more hardware.
post #20127 of 22469
I started a build log here for the white S8 I got a while back if anyone's interested.
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post #20128 of 22469
Can I ask how people route their tubing in the bottom of their SMA8's? I have so much trouble, and it always looks so dang messy and crowded. I have 10 passthroughs, so that's even more tubing in the bottom.

    
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post #20129 of 22469
Quote:
Originally Posted by SteezyTN View Post

Can I ask how people route their tubing in the bottom of their SMA8's? I have so much trouble, and it always looks so dang messy and crowded. I have 10 passthroughs, so that's even more tubing in the bottom.


Have you considered using soft tubes underneath wink.gif
otherwise you'll have a fun time making enough space, and a lot of bending to get everything routed right with hard tubes

and you'll probably lose that 360mm rad space on the bottom if you want to stick with hard tubings

you'll also need a bunch of 90 degree fittings aprox 10 (one for each) that will make it slightly easier as you will be working mostly with straight tubes, with small bends
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post #20130 of 22469
I on
Quote:
Originally Posted by AllGamer View Post

Have you considered using soft tubes underneath wink.gif
otherwise you'll have a fun time making enough space, and a lot of bending to get everything routed right with hard tubes

and you'll probably lose that 360mm rad space on the bottom if you want to stick with hard tubings

you'll also need a bunch of 90 degree fittings aprox 10 (one for each) that will make it slightly easier as you will be working mostly with straight tubes, with small bends
i only use soft tubing for the bottom compartment. And I no longer have a 360 rad there. Took it out a couple months ago.
    
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