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post #3991 of 22275
I'm running quad 7970 which are no saints in the power consumption department. Had an ST1500 but the Lepa was a bit shorter and had the extra oomph of headroom. I'll get a kill a watt this weekend to get some #s but I'm sure I won't blow the 20 amp line I switched over to after running quad Hell-irmi 480s.
post #3992 of 22275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

Remove the adapter plate from the window side of the controller and mount it to the case first! Then put the controller with the mount on it into position, put in thumbscrews and THEN put the last screws into the window side mount of the controller. I had that problem with an optical drive being slightly out of spec once.

No go failed miserably the screws will NOT line up when attempting to put the face plate back on, I feel like anymore I'll end up breaking this thing moving it back and fort inside.


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post #3993 of 22275


I was going to say how my Aqua 6 went into my MH10 with short brackets with no hassle at all. It took 2 minutes and lined up perfectly in all dimensions. But then I realized you have an XT not a Pro!
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post #3994 of 22275
Quote:
Originally Posted by NYMD View Post

I was going to say how my Aqua 6 went into my MH10 with short brackets with no hassle at all. It took 2 minutes and lined up perfectly in all dimensions. But then I realized you have an XT not a Pro!

Is there a difference? I thought it was just one comes w/ the Controller the other doesn't?
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post #3995 of 22275
ah, i see. So the issues is lining up the front plate on the controller. Did you get the main body of the controller installed in the drive bays?
post #3996 of 22275
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

Is there a difference? I thought it was just one comes w/ the Controller the other doesn't?

Nah, check the faceplate pic I posted above. The Pro has 3 physical buttons and a different shape.
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post #3997 of 22275
Quote:
Originally Posted by LunaP View Post

The peg legs the legs that stick out inside the case that you push the mounts onto in order to screw in the holes, only 1 side can be in and the other will be off by about 1-2 cm's

Did you get that fixed ? IIRC, its about manufacturer's spec on their FCs. Its been posted about several times - maybe in this thread.

Here's one answer

http://www.overclock.net/t/940461/official-case-labs-owners-club/530#post_17836643
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post #3998 of 22275
Quote:
Originally Posted by stren View Post

Really? even with push/pull? Still monsta's are a silly rad wink.gif I really want to test how close you can get rads in a chamber like that before they start affecting each other. I don't like how much space they take up even in a tx10 wink.gif

i think two monstas up top affect each other a bit but not by much, ut60s would probably be just fine though, lots more space in between them.

monstas are just stupid big tongue.gif
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post #3999 of 22275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Jimhans1 View Post

I remember someone here on OCN had to loosen the screws on the aquearo that hold the mounting arms in place so that they could move the mounts built into the aquearo together as they were too wide.

Did you mean this ?
That was only a few millimeters though...
post #4000 of 22275
Quote:
Originally Posted by Whatts View Post

Did you mean this ?
That was only a few millimeters though...
I don't remember if it was that one or another, there have been several that I saw that had similar probs.. Sorry.
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