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post #7361 of 22189
Quote:
Originally Posted by iBored View Post

Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
All the quotes!
I'm gonna spoiler these cos it makes the post too long. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)




So here's the problem I'm facing.
I've put the banking plate in reverse.
(It kinda bugs me that there's just that odd one out.)


But now I can't screw in my rad properly!
I'm don't really wanna have to make another PPC order just to get a gasket.


How now brown cow?eh-smiley.gif

BTW, them e-loops just look so good.

Doubly so....

post #7362 of 22189
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post

Doubly so....
Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)
All the eLoop, love them! wubsmiley.gif


Some moar in my log ofc
(oddly I have posted them in a few threads but not here. Yes, I know the Bluray drive need some black coverup.)
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CaseLabs Panda
(29 items)
 
Bench table
(18 items)
 
Fractal White
(17 items)
 
CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
5960X Rampage V Extreme KFA² GTX 980Ti HOF Watercooled Kingston HyperX HX426C13PB2K4/16 
RAMHard DriveHard DriveCooling
G.Skill TridentZ F4-3200C14Q-32GTZ Kingston v300 Intel SSD 535 EK-Supremacy EVO - Full Nickel 
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EK-Coostream XE 360 EK-Vardar F4-120ER EK-XRES 140 D5 Vario (incl. pump) Win10 / Win 8.1 / Win 7 / Linux Mint 
MonitorKeyboardPowerCase
Dell U2515H Ducky Channel Shine III MX black - white LED /... Enermax Platimax 1000w dimastech easy v3 
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logitech G9X HyperX 900x400 / Steelseries QCK 
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post #7363 of 22189
Quote:
Originally Posted by fast_fate View Post

Doubly so....


post #7364 of 22189
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkrReign2049 View Post

I love your build Wermad. I doubt my rig will ever look as good. I really wish I would have went with smaller tubing before I bought all of these quick disconnects. Does the 120mm extended top have any sort of mounting options or does it just give you clearance for a radiator and fans? I guess what I'm asking is, with the 120mm extended top, can you have 2 480 rads in the top and then add a third rad in there for a total of 3 rads?

Quote:
Originally Posted by iBored View Post

All the quotes!
I'm gonna spoiler these cos it makes the post too long. Warning: Spoiler! (Click to show)


If you have the 120mm you can have rads on the sides and on top also. how big on the sides will depend on your PSU's if you are putting this in the top??



So here's the problem I'm facing.
I've put the banking plate in reverse.
(It kinda bugs me that there's just that odd one out.)


But now I can't screw in my rad properly!
I'm don't really wanna have to make another PPC order just to get a gasket.


How now brown cow?eh-smiley.gif

BTW, them e-loops just look so good.

Why not put the coved on the bottom where the rad is then might not have this problem??
post #7365 of 22189
Quote:
Originally Posted by iBored View Post

But now I can't screw in my rad properly!
I'm don't really wanna have to make another PPC order just to get a gasket.

You will have to use only 2 of the 4 screws.
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Silent Watcher
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be quiet! Dark Base Pro 900 Black 
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post #7366 of 22189
I somewhat want to put a m-itx
Quote:
Originally Posted by jojojonny22 View Post

About to pull the trigger on one, but I'm torn between the S5 and the S8 stun.gif

Get that S8 and dont look back.
post #7367 of 22189
Quote:
Originally Posted by chino1974 View Post

As usual epic job Wermad!!! I always get inspiration from your build as I love the overkill loops as well. I can't wait to have my TH10 in hand!! It shipped yesterday and says it should be here monday. I was hoping to have it this weekend. But I guess the longer the way the better the feeling once it does get here. I didn't do enough research into the STH10. If I would've realized you can fit this much raddage into it I might have gone with this instead of the TH10. But the TH10 will do just fine for me for now. Plus this gives me an excuse to order another one in 2 or 3 months!! Lol!!


He is 100% right. I've tried all sizes from 1/4" to 1/2" x 7/16". And tubing diameter has never improved my temps at all. With that said I still think large cases look way better with 1/2" x 3/4" tubing. I wish they made nice looking compressioin fittings for 3/4" o.d. rigid tubing or copper pipe.

I did love the TH10 I had and it was the right size to fit under my desk. Very versatile and you'll love yours. I had sold my TH10 and all my 120mm fans and decided to take up the challenge of 140mm fans. The only real CL case that could tackle this setup was the STH10 imho. I did look through several logs from the last few years (ahem, not "within last six months" rolleyes.gif) of members using 140mm fans and rads. These guys inspired me to go with the STH10. Though it turned out to be a tad bit too tall and won't fit under my desk. Its sitting on top of my desk, very heavy, for now. Eventually, it will go on the floor once I re-arrange the furniture in this room.


To add to the tube size thing: hard acrylic is the latest rage and the most common size is 3/8x1/2 and 10mm x 12mm. I also had 3/4" od and was running 3/8x5/8 for a while. With Primochills new Advance tube being stiffer, 3/8x1/2 was no longer way too soft to kink so it was an easy choice. Especially to avoid putting too much pressure on the components using thicker tube. Not many ppl are fans of my plumbing in this rig but I'm not in the mood to break down the whole thing and re do it (lol, procrastination). It works biggrin.gif, so no need to fix it. MCP 35X is running fine (though it can get weird sometimes).
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkrReign2049 View Post

I love your build Wermad. I doubt my rig will ever look as good. I really wish I would have went with smaller tubing before I bought all of these quick disconnects. Does the 120mm extended top have any sort of mounting options or does it just give you clearance for a radiator and fans? I guess what I'm asking is, with the 120mm extended top, can you have 2 480 rads in the top and then add a third rad in there for a total of 3 rads?

Thank you, its not uber neat and spectacular but I try to make it a bit different then a lot of rigs out there. One of the main reason I switched to a smaller tube size was to ease the strain the tube puts on my components. The mb area is very busy and thicker/larger tube was too concerning. Eventually, the pressure was great enough to slightly dislodge my bridge a bit and cause a small leak. Luckily, the leak didn't affect the gpu's and I was able to clean it up quickly. For simple loops, just make sure there's just enough slack to avoid unnecessary strain on the components.

Yes, the top does give you more clearance. The 38mm is usually for 25mm thick fans sticking on top or a full rad w/ fans (~110mm ie UT60 p/p) using the 120mm top. Tbh, there's a ton of room in the top chamber to even run a Monsta rad with push/pull (136mm thick) facing up and down using a drop in bracket. So there's really no need for a top imho for the STH10. Other then that, there's plenty of room to run the rads on the side (like my setup).

You can go with three rads on top: two on the side and one on top w/ the 120mm extended top but this will mess wit airflow and make your rads less efficient. Like the water in your loop, air should have the best and quickest route to transfer the heat off the rads. I would recommend place that third rad on the bottom or the front (using the cheaper rad brackets vs the pricey extended 120mm top).
post #7368 of 22189
Quote:
Originally Posted by wermad View Post

Thank you, its not uber neat and spectacular but I try to make it a bit different then a lot of rigs out there. One of the main reason I switched to a smaller tube size was to ease the strain the tube puts on my components. The mb area is very busy and thicker/larger tube was too concerning. Eventually, the pressure was great enough to slightly dislodge my bridge a bit and cause a small leak. Luckily, the leak didn't affect the gpu's and I was able to clean it up quickly. For simple loops, just make sure there's just enough slack to avoid unnecessary strain on the components.

Yes, the top does give you more clearance. The 38mm is usually for 25mm thick fans sticking on top or a full rad w/ fans (~110mm ie UT60 p/p) using the 120mm top. Tbh, there's a ton of room in the top chamber to even run a Monsta rad with push/pull (136mm thick) facing up and down using a drop in bracket. So there's really no need for a top imho for the STH10. Other then that, there's plenty of room to run the rads on the side (like my setup).

You can go with three rads on top: two on the side and one on top w/ the 120mm extended top but this will mess wit airflow and make your rads less efficient. Like the water in your loop, air should have the best and quickest route to transfer the heat off the rads. I would recommend place that third rad on the bottom or the front (using the cheaper rad brackets vs the pricey extended 120mm top).


Thank you so much for your help. Now I just have to build up the courage and get the case ordered. Does anyone know how long the gunmetal color is going to be available?
Ananke
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Ananke
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post #7369 of 22189
Quote:
Originally Posted by DarkrReign2049 View Post

Thank you so much for your help. Now I just have to build up the courage and get the case ordered. Does anyone know how long the gunmetal color is going to be available?

CL typically will make lower volume colors "special orders" requiring additional days to process. Its really up to them if they decide to drop the color all together (ie gloss white) but they usually give plenty of time for a deadline when the change will happen. They usually have something posted in their manufacturer thread.
post #7370 of 22189
Hey Wermad, remember the PSU support discussion from last night? Jim just reminded me the PSU super mount can be rotated around as well so it doesn't matter which way I go- standard or reverse ATX- as long as they are all the same.
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