Originally Posted by chino1974
As usual epic job Wermad!!! I always get inspiration from your build as I love the overkill loops as well. I can't wait to have my TH10 in hand!! It shipped yesterday and says it should be here monday. I was hoping to have it this weekend. But I guess the longer the way the better the feeling once it does get here. I didn't do enough research into the STH10. If I would've realized you can fit this much raddage into it I might have gone with this instead of the TH10. But the TH10 will do just fine for me for now. Plus this gives me an excuse to order another one in 2 or 3 months!! Lol!!
He is 100% right. I've tried all sizes from 1/4" to 1/2" x 7/16". And tubing diameter has never improved my temps at all. With that said I still think large cases look way better with 1/2" x 3/4" tubing. I wish they made nice looking compressioin fittings for 3/4" o.d. rigid tubing or copper pipe.
I did love the TH10 I had and it was the right size to fit under my desk. Very versatile and you'll love yours. I had sold my TH10 and all my 120mm fans and decided to take up the challenge of 140mm fans. The only real CL case that could tackle this setup was the STH10 imho. I did look through several logs from the last few years (ahem, not "within last six months"
) of members using 140mm fans and rads. These guys inspired me to go with the STH10. Though it turned out to be a tad bit too tall and won't fit under my desk. Its sitting on top of my desk, very heavy, for now. Eventually, it will go on the floor once I re-arrange the furniture in this room.
To add to the tube size thing: hard acrylic is the latest rage and the most common size is 3/8x1/2 and 10mm x 12mm. I also had 3/4" od and was running 3/8x5/8 for a while. With Primochills new Advance tube being stiffer, 3/8x1/2 was no longer way too soft to kink so it was an easy choice. Especially to avoid putting too much pressure on the components using thicker tube. Not many ppl are fans of my plumbing in this rig but I'm not in the mood to break down the whole thing and re do it (lol, procrastination). It works
, so no need to fix it. MCP 35X is running fine (though it can get weird sometimes).
Originally Posted by DarkrReign2049
I love your build Wermad. I doubt my rig will ever look as good. I really wish I would have went with smaller tubing before I bought all of these quick disconnects. Does the 120mm extended top have any sort of mounting options or does it just give you clearance for a radiator and fans? I guess what I'm asking is, with the 120mm extended top, can you have 2 480 rads in the top and then add a third rad in there for a total of 3 rads?
Thank you, its not uber neat and spectacular but I try to make it a bit different then a lot of rigs out there. One of the main reason I switched to a smaller tube size was to ease the strain the tube puts on my components. The mb area is very busy and thicker/larger tube was too concerning. Eventually, the pressure was great enough to slightly dislodge my bridge a bit and cause a small leak. Luckily, the leak didn't affect the gpu's and I was able to clean it up quickly. For simple loops, just make sure there's just enough slack to avoid unnecessary strain on the components.
Yes, the top does give you more clearance. The 38mm is usually for 25mm thick fans sticking on top or a full rad w/ fans (~110mm ie UT60 p/p) using the 120mm top. Tbh, there's a ton of room in the top chamber to even run a Monsta rad with push/pull (136mm thick) facing up and down using a drop in bracket. So there's really no need for a top imho for the STH10. Other then that, there's plenty of room to run the rads on the side (like my setup).
You can go with three rads on top: two on the side and one on top w/ the 120mm extended top but this will mess wit airflow and make your rads less efficient. Like the water in your loop, air should have the best and quickest route to transfer the heat off the rads. I would recommend place that third rad on the bottom or the front (using the cheaper rad brackets vs the pricey extended 120mm top).