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post #9681 of 22267
Any recommended pads for mounting the EK-D5 in a caselabs case? I'm going to mount it to the 120mm accessory mounting plate (with the hole for a tube), it will be hanging from the roof of the lower chamber. EK's mounting plate is weird and difficult to deal with.
The Earwig 2014
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The Earwig 2014
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post #9682 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nichismo View Post

hey guys

im trying to mount two Bitspower 250mm DDC pump/reservoir combos to the wall of SM8, side by side, facing the opposite side wall of the chassis, so that calls for 8 holes total (2 each for EK DDC UNI mount/holder, 2 each for Bitspower Res clamps). In addition, I need to drill two 20mm holes above the tops of the reservoirs for Bitspower fillports/panel fittings. I also have M3 and M4 threaded nylon spacers I intend to use as I want partial cable clearance as the 24 pin ATX may run a tad underneath one of the units.

Obviously absolute precision measurements is a must, and ive never drilled before on anything ever, so I ended up just buying a tabletop drill press (albeit a cheap one). I also bought several clamps, filers, masking tape, a dremel and some accessories, and a step-drill bit that goes up to 3/4".

now ive heard that for the Bitspower fill ports, I should perhaps start with a 15mm hole and then file up to the 20mm size to be safe. Also, do I need to worry about getting a center punch or anything? I literally bouight the drill press for this one project, I already feel im being paranoid and perhaps going a lil overboard.

But still, any suggestions and tips are GREATLY appreciated, i could really use any insight or precautions before doing this. Ive never really been experienced with handiwork and craftsmanship (oddly, as im pretty good with my hands and dexterity however).

This is how I do it.

First, assemble your case and then do a visualization with the reservoirs inside the case. This doesn't have to be perfect, but you should be able to envision the mobo in there and any other hardware so that your reservoirs aren't getting in the way.

Now then, take frog tape (it's green, get it at home depot) and apply it to the panel you'll be drilling on. This is not only used as a marking template, but also prevents scratches to the area and leaves no residue.

Take your reservoirs and situate them on the panel over the frog tape. Make sure they are level. Take a pen and make an outline of the brackets and the holes in the brackets.

Take a center punch to the hole points. Yes, a center punch is necessary. I bought an automatic one from home depot a few years ago for like 12 bucks.

Get your drill bits out and find one that fits perfectly into the hole of the mounting bracket. It should slide in and out very easily, no resistance, yet still touch or almost touch the walls of the hole in the bracket.

Drill. The center punch made a divet (if you punched it enough) so that your bit doesn't wander at all. Use a bit of force behind your drill to ensure it stays in place drilling. After you're through, drill in and out of the holes a couple of times from either side, this will deburr the hole and and allow for screws to go in seamlessly.

Removed the frog tape. Mount your reservoirs. Dance. Dance like you're dancing for your people!

This should take you all of 15 minutes with a hand drill. I have an old (15 years!) Dewalt 14.4v drill that smokes their new 18v drills. They just don't make em like they used to.
post #9683 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by XNine View Post

This is how I do it.

First, assemble your case and then do a visualization with the reservoirs inside the case. This doesn't have to be perfect, but you should be able to envision the mobo in there and any other hardware so that your reservoirs aren't getting in the way.

Now then, take frog tape (it's green, get it at home depot) and apply it to the panel you'll be drilling on. This is not only used as a marking template, but also prevents scratches to the area and leaves no residue.

Take your reservoirs and situate them on the panel over the frog tape. Make sure they are level. Take a pen and make an outline of the brackets and the holes in the brackets.

Take a center punch to the hole points. Yes, a center punch is necessary. I bought an automatic one from home depot a few years ago for like 12 bucks.

Get your drill bits out and find one that fits perfectly into the hole of the mounting bracket. It should slide in and out very easily, no resistance, yet still touch or almost touch the walls of the hole in the bracket.

Drill. The center punch made a divet (if you punched it enough) so that your bit doesn't wander at all. Use a bit of force behind your drill to ensure it stays in place drilling. After you're through, drill in and out of the holes a couple of times from either side, this will deburr the hole and and allow for screws to go in seamlessly.

Removed the frog tape. Mount your reservoirs. Dance. Dance like you're dancing for your people!

This should take you all of 15 minutes with a hand drill. I have an old (15 years!) Dewalt 14.4v drill that smokes their new 18v drills. They just don't make em like they used to.
Excellent advise.
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post #9684 of 22267
Thread Starter 
Also worth mentioning that getting drill bits that are for metal and not for wood/masonry is a good idea too smile.gif Old blunt bits also may wander more.
     
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post #9685 of 22267
Just a quick question... Would any of you guys go to the extra effort to watercool ram/mobo on the x99 platform if you are not going extreme over voltage or want the looks that it brings. I'm prepared to do it on this build but ONLY if it will bring me substantial performance benefits. (Honestly I would prefer to have my system easier to drain/refill/maintain/upgrade) and I just feel this would be unnecessary.

Thoughts ???
post #9686 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Badass1982 View Post

Just a quick question... Would any of you guys go to the extra effort to watercool ram/mobo on the x99 platform if you are not going extreme over voltage or want the looks that it brings. I'm prepared to do it on this build but ONLY if it will bring me substantial performance benefits. (Honestly I would prefer to have my system easier to drain/refill/maintain/upgrade) and I just feel this would be unnecessary.

Thoughts ???

I've heard most people say that water cooling ram is usually unnecessary and is just for looks mostly. I have a water block on my ram but if (when) I upgrade to X99 I doubt I will go to the trouble.

I am water cooling my motherboard too but I probably wouldn't if I had it to do over. BUT, there are people here a LOT more qualified to answer that than I am.
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Nautilus
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post #9687 of 22267
The main reason for me not doing it (cooling motherboard/ram with water) is the complications that it will raise in using QDC's in my loop, really wanna use QDC's so upgrading is much easier!
post #9688 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by XNine View Post

This is how I do it.

First, assemble your case and then do a visualization with the reservoirs inside the case. This doesn't have to be perfect, but you should be able to envision the mobo in there and any other hardware so that your reservoirs aren't getting in the way.

Now then, take frog tape (it's green, get it at home depot) and apply it to the panel you'll be drilling on. This is not only used as a marking template, but also prevents scratches to the area and leaves no residue.

Take your reservoirs and situate them on the panel over the frog tape. Make sure they are level. Take a pen and make an outline of the brackets and the holes in the brackets.

Take a center punch to the hole points. Yes, a center punch is necessary. I bought an automatic one from home depot a few years ago for like 12 bucks.

Get your drill bits out and find one that fits perfectly into the hole of the mounting bracket. It should slide in and out very easily, no resistance, yet still touch or almost touch the walls of the hole in the bracket.

Drill. The center punch made a divet (if you punched it enough) so that your bit doesn't wander at all. Use a bit of force behind your drill to ensure it stays in place drilling. After you're through, drill in and out of the holes a couple of times from either side, this will deburr the hole and and allow for screws to go in seamlessly.

Removed the frog tape. Mount your reservoirs. Dance. Dance like you're dancing for your people!

This should take you all of 15 minutes with a hand drill. I have an old (15 years!) Dewalt 14.4v drill that smokes their new 18v drills. They just don't make em like they used to.

thank you so much! really appreciate the help.

Ive actually already assembled and built my rig, im doing a complete teardown however for this new configuration and I was going to drill into the chassis divider as it is individually, without the motherboard tray in place and completely seperated from the rest of the chassis

Should I use a hand drill instead of my drill press? and is there anything wrong with using normal masking tape?
Edited by Nichismo - 11/3/14 at 2:47pm
post #9689 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nichismo View Post

Quote:
Originally Posted by XNine View Post

This is how I do it.

First, assemble your case and then do a visualization with the reservoirs inside the case. This doesn't have to be perfect, but you should be able to envision the mobo in there and any other hardware so that your reservoirs aren't getting in the way.

Now then, take frog tape (it's green, get it at home depot) and apply it to the panel you'll be drilling on. This is not only used as a marking template, but also prevents scratches to the area and leaves no residue.

Take your reservoirs and situate them on the panel over the frog tape. Make sure they are level. Take a pen and make an outline of the brackets and the holes in the brackets.

Take a center punch to the hole points. Yes, a center punch is necessary. I bought an automatic one from home depot a few years ago for like 12 bucks.

Get your drill bits out and find one that fits perfectly into the hole of the mounting bracket. It should slide in and out very easily, no resistance, yet still touch or almost touch the walls of the hole in the bracket.

Drill. The center punch made a divet (if you punched it enough) so that your bit doesn't wander at all. Use a bit of force behind your drill to ensure it stays in place drilling. After you're through, drill in and out of the holes a couple of times from either side, this will deburr the hole and and allow for screws to go in seamlessly.

Removed the frog tape. Mount your reservoirs. Dance. Dance like you're dancing for your people!

This should take you all of 15 minutes with a hand drill. I have an old (15 years!) Dewalt 14.4v drill that smokes their new 18v drills. They just don't make em like they used to.

thank you so much! really appreciate the help.

Ive actually already assembled and built my rig, im doing a complete teardown however for this new configuration and I was going to drill into the chassis divider as it is individually, without the motherboard tray in place and completely seperated from the rest of the chassis

Should I use a hand drill instead of my drill press? and is there anything wrong with using normal masking tape?

That's up to you. I mean, I'd LOVE to have a drill press, but I've never found it to be absolutely necessary. If you have one, might as well use it so you can laugh at us peasants who don't! tongue.gif

Here's the center punch I have: http://www.homedepot.com/p/General-Tools-Hardened-Steel-Center-Punch-89/202025674

Frog Tape: http://www.homedepot.com/p/FrogTape-1-88-in-x-60-yds-Multi-Surface-Tape-240107/202391342


If you have other questions let us know. That's what we're all here for smile.gif

BTW, what kind of tubing you going to run? Soft or hardline?
post #9690 of 22267
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nichismo View Post

ah. Ill get that hole punch set then.

What size hole should I drill for m4 and m3 screws? did you use a hand drill for your case?

For a M3 screw, one would use a 3.2mm drill bit. For a M4 screw, one would use a 4.3mm drill bit.
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