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post #11 of 19
Another couple of suggestions here.

When you're marking the curve, use a piece of string, a pencil, and a pin. Will ensure a near perfect curve.


Before you make the cut, mark a half inch in front of the intended cut and cut that instead, then sand the final half inch off. It'll be extra work but will 90% ensure you will have no mistakes.


Edited by Reflux - 2/14/11 at 2:48pm
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post #12 of 19
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by Syrillian View Post
A jigsaw will be able to cut that radius, but you would likely need to sand it down afterward.

Also, if you have a router then you could do some cool profiling of the edges. Eased edges not only look nicer (imho), but they are less painful when you bash into them... it you are inclined to "bashing" like I am.
how could i use the router? i was just thinking of sanding it into a rounded shape by hand?....what stain and clear coat should i use?
Quote:
Originally Posted by $ilent View Post
First thought that popped into my head when i saw the thread title was screwdriver...lol
lmao
Quote:
Originally Posted by Arctucas View Post
Lose the circular saw, get the table saw.

If you have money to spend, a miter saw.
will do. if i have the extra cash will go for the mitersaw
Quote:
Originally Posted by Reflux View Post
Another couple of suggestions here.

When you're marking the curve, use a piece of string, a pencil, and a pin. Will ensure a near perfect curve.


Before you make the cut, mark a half inch in front of the intended cut and cut that instead, then sand the final half inch off. It'll be extra work but will 90% ensure you will have no mistakes.

wow thats a great idea, i never though of that lol
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post #13 of 19
Thread Starter 
i wanted more like this finish to it



using this kind of wood

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post #14 of 19


Sorry Just had to do it.
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post #15 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALAMO695 View Post
how could i use the router? i was just thinking of sanding it into a rounded shape by hand?....what stain and clear coat should i use?
A router can be used as a finishing tool.

Once the cut has been made a profile bit can be used to do a round over, or any number of types of profiles (i.e. Roman Ogee), but that is all subjective aesthetics and finish-work.

If you are interested, take a peek Here for types of profiles.

If you plan to use veneered or layered laminates you may want to adhere or attach a finishing piece to the edge. Over time the pieces may de-laminate, and covering them properly will add to the lifetime of the project. If you do not want to use a finishing edge (piece to cover the laminate) then I would recommend that you seal the exposed laminate edge.

Color or stain is subjective to your liking and there is a wide variety of hues available.
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post #16 of 19
If you are going to use a router to finish the edge, use a jig(I think that's what it's called) to guide the machine.
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post #17 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by ALAMO695 View Post
i wanted more like this finish to it



using this kind of wood

If you are using plywood (which is not a bad idea by any means, because it is usually more stable than dimensional) then installing half round molding on the exposed edges makes sanding or routing unnecessary, and it just looks better than seeing the layers of plywood.

Also, I meant the miter saw in addition to the table saw.

If you decide to do the molding, a miter saw is indispensable.
Edited by Arctucas - 2/14/11 at 3:21pm
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post #18 of 19
Quote:
Originally Posted by shadow19935 View Post
Then it might not be as sturdy. Wount be moveable and will not look as good!
I beg to differ....

I'm using 100 lb angles... a crap load of them... I can stand on it...
    
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post #19 of 19
If you wanted to skip the challenge of building a desk you could look into a modular desk and create your L desk layout. I would suggest something like the Bush Furniture Series C.

http://www.bushfurniture.com/workpla...s/SeriesC.aspx

I'm going with a 72" desk with a 48 return bridge.

72" by 77"
Something to consider is the desk is 29" deep and the return is 23" deep.
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