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Help with OMNI GPU Hydro cooler mod - Page 2

post #11 of 31
You can mod your coolit omni just like the corsair h50. You just have to cut the tubing off of the barbs and put your own. Check out any modded corsair worklog. It will work exactly the same. The omni's pump will just be strong enough to handle the one gpu block, the current rad, and one reservoir.
 
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post #12 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodapopDima View Post
So, based on the picture I linked to above, I am wondering what i will need to tie in the tubes with the stock unit. Of course it is easy to plug them into the block meant for the GPU, but how about the other end?
I'm not sure if anyone's done a CoolIT before, but there's a whole section of h50 mods. Basically ou have to cut the tube off and then replumb once you have the layout you want.
Also, how does one know how much coolant liquid (distilled water or other) to add?
Will probably take .5-1L, most likely not even that much. I would only suggest distilled water and biocide, no third-party coolants.
Do I keep the existing liquid, or replace it altogether?
Drain, flush, and replace with distilled
If adding distilled water, I saw some people mention adding anti fungal and such liquid, do I need to do this as well?
Yes, PT Nuke or a silver coil are the most popular choices
If I want to make the liquid a nice blue color, which dye can I add - or should I add dye at all?
Do not add dye. If you want blue, use blue tubing
Will it be ok to add dye with the anti fungal and corrosion liquid ( I read mixed reports)?
They won't affect each other, but dye will separate out and cause gunk to form in the loop and radiator, potentially causing clogs.
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post #13 of 31
Thread Starter 
@rubix

I understand very well what you are saying. The reason i opt for the block without the extra reservoir is that if you look at the original block designed to normally go with the OMNI system, its just as large, if not larger. Now of course I do not have inner volume measurements of one block vs another in terms of how much liquid it can contain, but I think they are awfully close. Given this, wouldn't the limitation you spoke of earlier not exist in this scenario???... I mean I read many many positive feedback from those whom have used the OMNI system in its original stock form, and they are all positive.

I just want to say that in essence, all I am doing is changing one type of block for another, and with this there is direct contact, if you would look at the OMNI, one block takes heat off another, hence there is a loss of heat transfer between the two metal objects.

See original block assembled:
http://www.hitechlegion.com/images/s...it_omni/21.jpg

Anyhow, I read on another forum that someone did exactly something like this with an i7 based CPU, and it worked out well... Yes I am aware that GPU's get way hotter than CPU's, but again, I think even this with what I have in mind will give me improved results over what I have now. I am not taking things to an extreme.

So if anyone has any suggestions as to my other concerns/questions, please let me know.... and they are:

Do I add extra coolant liquid to the current one?

Do I simply replace all the current liquid with a different one?

How do I know how much liquid is enough?

What liquid should I use (just distilled water)?

My prev Question about the Dye?

My prev Question about the anti fungal/corrosive etc... liquid?

What would an educated guess be as to how to connect the two 1/4' tubes to the current radiator:
http://www.hardwareheaven.com/review...-omni_pump.jpg

Thanks for all the input from everyone so far.
post #14 of 31
Thread Starter 
Quote:
Originally Posted by fat_italian_stallion View Post
You can mod your coolit omni just like the corsair h50. You just have to cut the tubing off of the barbs and put your own. Check out any modded corsair worklog. It will work exactly the same. The omni's pump will just be strong enough to handle the one gpu block, the current rad, and one reservoir.
@fat_italian_stallion

luv the name handle btw... too funny

May I just ask with regards to one thing you mentioned, what do you mean by it can handle only 1 reservoir, do you mean by that the current reservoir? Or if I decided to add one as suggested by some of the other members whom posted. I was just curious, I do not plan to take this route, I wish to use the current one, I just want to minimize clutter and cost.
Edited by sodapopDima - 2/15/11 at 5:53pm
post #15 of 31
Thread Starter 
@SaltWaterCooled

Thanks, I think I have this all almost fully wrapped up. Hmm, would I be the first person to mod a CoolIt OMNI, or at least the first reported... hehehe

Anyway, if I may bother and pester you with some more noob questions, although better to do this now than pay for it later.

1) What exactly is the process of drain & flush. What do I drain with, regular water, or distilled water only, or some other harsh chemical. How many times do i drain/flush it through?

2) Regarding the .5 - 1L, there is no way that I can get even close to .5L so should I just fill it up to max capacity??

3) Is it ideal to 1 tube with a T connector to have full distilled water, and no air at all?

Got it, I'll just go with NO dye, its just easier than to have to do maintenance ever on any possible clogs, I never wanna open this thing again for 10yrs.
Edited by sodapopDima - 2/16/11 at 10:23am
post #16 of 31
Thread Starter 
*bump*
post #17 of 31
Quote:
Originally Posted by sodapopDima View Post
1) What exactly is the process of drain & flush. What do I drain with, regular water, or distilled water only, or some other harsh chemical. How many times do i drain/flush it through?
Just drain the fluid that's in there, and then run distilled water through the parts until the water comes out clean.
2) Regarding the .5 - 1L, there is no way that I can get even close to .5L so should I just fill it up to max capacity??
Yes, I was just estimating the volume, my point was just to fill it completely.
3) Is it ideal to 1 tube with a T connector to have full distilled water, and no air at all?
You will need either a T-line or a reservoir (Swiftech MicroRes is popular for H50 mods) to allow you to completely fill the loop and ensure no air is trapped in the loop.
4) Got it, I'll just go with NO dye, its just easier than to have to do maintenance ever on any possible clogs, I never wanna open this thing again for 10yrs.
No dye is the way to go, and it'll be maintenance free, although a reservoir/T-line will make it easy to drain and refill the loop should you ever need to.
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post #18 of 31
Quote:
The reason i opt for the block without the extra reservoir is that if you look at the original block designed to normally go with the OMNI system, its just as large, if not larger. Now of course I do not have inner volume measurements of one block vs another in terms of how much liquid it can contain, but I think they are awfully close. Given this, wouldn't the limitation you spoke of earlier not exist in this scenario???
Meaning radiator heat dissipation/capacity, not waterblock volume capacity.

I get what you are doing, but I think you are missing some common verbage as to what we are explaining for you to do/try. I also think you are asking people for exact steps for this kind of mod, when most of us haven't messed with these products...and then getting upset because we aren't being more specific. A huge part of modding is trial and error...you might have to figure a few things out. Everyone on this thread has provided you with some great input and specifics the best as can be expected.

BTW...the vast majority of your typical WC questions are outlined in great detail in the sticky at the top of the forum.
Edited by rubix_1011 - 2/16/11 at 11:58am
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post #19 of 31
Thread Starter 
@SaltwaterCooled & @rubix_1011

Thx both so much for the input. I think I have all the missing pieces to the puzzle now. I ordered all the parts I needed.

@SaltwaterCooled
Yep, I will be using a T-Line and all... so wish me luck.

@@rubix_1011
I get what you are now saying. I will try and keep my temps at monitor, if this works well I will post my results here so anyone else in the future can see. And yes it is indeed trial & error... hope I get without too much error though

Since I just placed my orders today, I guess I wont have any real results till next week.
so....
Till then!!!

Thanks to everyone whom helped me with all the info, its much appreciated.
post #20 of 31
NP...I think there was just some disconnect on commonly used lingo. I definitely like the DIY concept...so good luck and don't cut corners.
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