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[Official]ASUS M4N98TD EVO Owner's Club. - Page 52

post #511 of 611
http://valid.canardpc.com/2732173
I assume this is sufficient smile.gif

Also, from everything I was reading you had it backwards... the CPU-z temp is the temp of the actual core temp, as opposed to the faulty sensor on the die.

http://www.overclock.net/t/1128821/amd-temp-information-and-guide

That thread there, specifically states that the core temp (the temp that you will see in CPU-Z) is the way to go. If I have bad information please let me know, so I dont blow out my proc haha. Although, I should still be within reason if the temps are off since it shouldn't be more than 15 degrees and I am running quite cool right now as it is. Honestly, the feeling of the air blowing off of it feels about as cool as it did with the stock fan at stock settings.... for whatever that is worth smile.gif

Edit: sorry I meant the "Core temp" program vice the die temp... Cpu-z doesn't give a temp... bleh
Edited by Chickensevil - 3/15/13 at 8:22pm
post #512 of 611
Quote:
Originally Posted by Nycteral View Post

hey guys had a question bout the pci-e x1 slots are they version 2.0 pci-e slots i just got a raid controller card to use to bypass the nvidia chipset seeing as the chipset limmits the ssd speeds to sata 1 speed and an add-on card should be able to bypass it but if the pci-e x1 slot is only version 1 then it's really only upgrading to a sata2 when if it's pci-e v2.0 it's almost6 like running sata 3 cus the slot will then support 500 mb/s but a version one slot only supports 250 mb/s any clue what version the slots are??

all the slots are PCI-e 2.0 as far as I am aware. I think they stopped doing 1.0 back in like 2005 or so. The only difficult thing to find right now on AMD (which still does not exist to my knowledge) is PCI-e 3.0. People are speculating that until they up their hyper transport speed then you will not be able to get 3.0 on anything. Here is hoping that Piledriver (thats next right?) will deliver in that area smile.gif

Not gonna lie, I am totally waiting for the next CPUs to come out for a big upgrade... should be getting DDR 4 by 2014, new video cards from NVidia and AMD, new CPUs, PCI-e 3.0, and of course tech that exists... just not on this board which is sata3 and USB3. 2014 is looking to be a good year for upgrades smile.gif
post #513 of 611
Hi Nycteral, I take it you have purchased something like the ASUS U3S6, I used the second PCI-e slot and it works a treat and yes it is faster than the mainboard for SSD's. It's a real shame this board came out a few weeks too early. Now that nVidia have stopped making chipsets it's going to be difficult to purchase another. frown.gif

@Chickensevil, I would not trust any sensor, they cost pennies compared to the hardware they are sensing. You are doing the right thing by using the version 1 heat sensor THE SKIN! If you cannot touch the heatsink for fear of bursting into flames, then you know it is too hot.


P.S. Thought I better have a play as I have not messed with any settings for a while. So anyway tried the 20X200, which never worked last time I tried. This time straight to 4GHz, dropping my RAM to 1600 nice and stable.

http://valid.canardpc.com/2732173

So go check out what scores I am getting (Nova Bench/3dmark 6/Photoshop/Tombraider benchmark) and how my favourite programs work, not as fast as my original 3.7GHz with 17**Mhz RAM timings. So I have a little mess about and end up with

http://valid.canardpc.com/2735170

So nearly 4GHz and nearly perfect timings for my RAM. Benched and comparison is that it is running faster than my original settings, will keep these and see how they go. Thanks Chickensevil, you have woken up the need to play with my bits, don't tell mum. LOL
Edited by Horus - 3/18/13 at 12:42am
post #514 of 611
Well, see this is why I originally posted because I had a weird feeling that just raising the multiplier was not the best for performance overall. However in my case the RAM I have is only rated for 1333 @ 9-9-9 timing. I suppose I could try to overclock them a bit, but I have heard that RAM gets really unstable, really fast. However, it looks like you have really jacked up your HT link (2k to 2.7k) so maybe that is where you are seeing your big performance gains?

I heard somewhere that clock for clock the HT link is not going to be better than boosting your main clock, however, they also said that it isnt worth sacrificing 100MHz for 10MHz gain in your CPU. In your case, it looks like you have gained 700 MHz in favor of a 70MHz drop on your CPU, so this may be why you are seeing the slightly better performance.

Also, the thing about touching it is a good point. I am not worried about the touch at the moment, since the air flow coming off is rather cool as it is. After dealing with the heat monster that was my GTX 480, I know what hot is HAHA! (90C... I could almost boil some water on that thing). I accidently touched the back vent once and boy I regretted it...

With my cooler I can touch the tops of my heatpipes very easily and thus far they feel pretty cool to the touch, not much warmer than room temp, I would say, so I think the readout of 37 on the CPU itself seems pretty solid.

Keep in mind, I am a noob at overclocking thus far, and can only give my opinions based on that little experience, so I am always eager to get more knowledge smile.gif
post #515 of 611
Hi Mr Evil, I have played a little more and found that the best I can get is

http://valid.canardpc.com/2736147

I have played with everything I can but this is the most stable setup I can maintain with no errors in Mem95 and have a healthy impact on performance. I would not play too much with RAM OCing, others will say otherwise but, any you can get will be beneficial to performance only if you can get everything else to balance out. I also started to worry about my HT speeds but, when they drop I find so does my performance. I have not touched the RAM timings, other than to change the T1 to T2 (very little performance gain for so much stability loss).

Good luck and look forward to see what you do next. Don't hurt your PC. smile.gif
post #516 of 611
I guess what is stopping me right now, is I still have not managed to find the limits on the voltage before you blow up your system, lol. I mean I know 1.55 for the cpu, but what is the safe zone for the other stuff specifically for our board given our VRMs are heatsinked.
post #517 of 611
Hallo Mr Evil, I have left most voltages default the only ones I have changed are the CPU and RAM. The CPU and RAM are set at 1.5v, I put the CPU upto 1.55 but it made no difference except making the CPU rise in temperature. Have you tried just lowering the multiplier by one or two and seeing if you gain/lose any performance? Also make sure you are not in Gangle mode, personally I see no advantage locking your RAM to cores as some software do not use all the cores, then again the speed and size of RAM nowadays leaves it unnecessary IMHO.

You will know when you have it right as YOUR PC will tell you, just like riding a motor bike, you can feel that it is right and everything is working towards the best performance. Good luck.
post #518 of 611
Hello all. This is my very first post here and as such have decided to put my bid in to join your exclusive club! I've got a boatload of questions in the queue.




Edited by mod-zoo - 3/22/13 at 11:13am
    
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CPUMotherboardGraphicsRAM
4000+ ASUS A8N-SLI Deluxe 2 X BFG 7600 GT (SLi-mode) 2Gb Kingston Hyper-X 
Hard DriveOSMonitorKeyboard
WD Raptor 10K 74Gb HDD Windows XP Generic Flat Microsoft 
PowerCaseMouseMouse Pad
ULTRA X-connect Modular Generic pre-mod Logitech huh? Lol 
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post #519 of 611
Your timings are way off mate. You have kind of knobbled your CPU. If you reset your bios you would get a default setting better than what you have. I don't know how you got those settings, but you really need to change them as your CPU is running at one quarter of default speeds.I have never seen a lower multiplier that should be sixteen. I would seriously start again, if you have raid HDD's or any strange configurtation of hardware remember to write down what you have already (even thoguh it is so very wrong).

Good luck have a read through the thread, DO NOT GO SETTING MAXIMUM OC till you know you have the right cooling solution (If you are using the standard aluminium heatsink and fan, you really should not be OCing) and have everything setup correctly before you start turning things up.

Good Luck.
post #520 of 611
That's just Cool & Quiet enabled .


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AMD Ph IIx4 955 @ 3.2 Asus M2N32-sli dlx Asus GTX 460 1gb DirectCU MSI GTX 460 1gb Cyclone 
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4x2gb OCZ ddr2 1066 plats seagate 320gb sata lg supermulti dvd WIN 7 64 
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acer p221w ms SS ST75F-P 750w CM 690modded w/KazeMaster pro 
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