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post #1101 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by reflex99 View Post

people have replaced mosfets (i think), but like has been said, it would be a super tight solder job.

There are methods for soldering small things such as MOSFETs, or even way smaller.

Check this out:
     
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post #1102 of 1209
Good video.
Those TO252 mosfets are ginormous compared to many surface mount components. The challenge will be getting heat onto the pad quickly enough to flow the solder without heat-soaking and possibly damaging the board or components.
post #1103 of 1209
If it hasn't been asked for yet can someone add ASUS SABERTOOTH 990FX R2.0? please and thanks.
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post #1104 of 1209
Just submitted as many info as I've been able to collect on the Gigabyte F2A75M-HD2.

By the way, it uses super low RdsON MOSFETs based on TrenchFET technology, boasting some impressive 7.5mOhm. No wonder it runs so cool!

Max power dissipation is 22.7W per MOSFET, making a total of 110W for the whole processor package (one of the driver sides only). Assume a bit higher since power is switched between the sides. I think it's safe to run this board with a mildly OCed 5800K with adequate ventilation.
   
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post #1105 of 1209

22.7W per MOSFET or per phase? There's more than one MOSFET a phase :)

Should be a 3+2 phase, 3-transistors on the first 3 phases and 2 on the other. The new MOSFETs that GIGABYTE have been using throughout their boards, including mine I'm pretty sure, are really really good.

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post #1106 of 1209
7.5 mOhm is not all that fantastic. The dreaded NIKOS on my 870A-G54 are rated* to operate in the ballpark of 6~9 mOhm, depending on actual current flow and voltage, and gate voltage. High quality Infineon FETs can have RDS as low as 2.x mOhm, at the price of higher capacitance and slower response.

*I somewhat suspect the Nikos parts, being some of the cheapest on the street, are not meeting their stated specifications. rolleyes.gif If nothing else, I bet they degrade much more rapidly than they should.
Edited by Geonerd - 12/19/12 at 12:14pm
post #1107 of 1209

NIKOS are awful in all regards.

 

They're on the level of the cheapest capacitors.

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post #1108 of 1209
3.8ghz@1.536vcore, my Biostar A770e3 started to have choke whine when the mosfets approached 100*C (the max limit, I quickly turned it off, biostar says 90*C long term causes pcb browning).

It was quite audible, i thought it was my whining blademasters at first. The whining goes away almost immediately when I stop prime95, and it only starts to whine after a few minutes of p95 at 3.8/1.536 when the VRM start to approach 100*C.

Now the temperature sensor in question, it's placed onto the topmost of the 3 in the 3+1 phase (in between the top and middle of the 3, more towards the top mosfet chips though), but it also might be reading the choke because the sensor is sort of pushing against the choke. Here's a pic of the NZXT Sentry 2 discrete temperature sensors:



The diode tip is underneath my custom VRM heatsink (took an am2 stock heatsink, sawed it into 1cm wide, stuck it onto my mosfets, put a 40mm fan onto it by screwing into the fins), but as you can see like the wires are sort of exposed going towards the tip, and they are pushed against the choke.

Like... i\l (vrm choke, the sensor, heatsink, if that makes sense visually).

I'm not sure if the diode is picking up the actual mosfets, or if it's picking up on the choke, but given the choke whine I'm getting, I don't think it's a good sign.I'm pretty sure it's choke temp because I've never had anything like this before, i think i only started registering such temps when i put this diode by the top phase and maybe it's like against the choke, or it could just be the hottest (i always thought the middle one was the hottest though). I dont get such choke whine on 3.7/1.504vcore.

It ran p95 blend for an hour, so I think I'll just stick with this 3.8ghz@1.536vcore, but not 24 hour test it due to this (in gaming/streaming i dont think it'll reach the same load and same temps, if it does ill shut it down and downclock/downvolt to 3.7ghz/1.504vcore, which is 24 hour stable).

I also dont know if my VRM heatsink is working properly, i mean it feels very warm to the touch, almost hot, but i can hold my fingers on it and 90-100*C should be untouchable and scolding hot, even 70-80 should be which is what my other mosfet diode is reading and what I've usually gotten. So it's doing something but not everything, maybe if I got some enzotech's they'd help dissipate heat better (although im worried it might not, after all this custom heatsink is like 40mm tall, whereas enzotechs have much less surface area). Or maybe it feels so much cooler to the touch because of it's relatively large surface area, ie its 70-80 at the mosfet but at the end of the fins its much cooler.
Edited by Belial - 12/19/12 at 3:42pm
     
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post #1109 of 1209
yea my vrm heatsink thermal tape is coming off the heatsink is sliding off... im gonna have to get some double sided tape...

anyone have some spare double sided thermal tape?
     
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post #1110 of 1209
Quote:
Originally Posted by Belial View Post

I also dont know if my VRM heatsink is working properly, i mean it feels very warm to the touch, almost hot, but i can hold my fingers on it and 90-100*C should be untouchable and scolding hot, even 70-80 should be which is what my other mosfet diode is reading and what I've usually gotten. So it's doing something but not everything, maybe if I got some enzotech's they'd help dissipate heat better (although im worried it might not, after all this custom heatsink is like 40mm tall, whereas enzotechs have much less surface area). Or maybe it feels so much cooler to the touch because of it's relatively large surface area, ie its 70-80 at the mosfet but at the end of the fins its much cooler.

Keep in mind that the MOSFET package is designed to transfer the vast majority of junction heat to the motherboard, via the metal base pad and solder joint. The mobo then acts as a radiator to dissipate this heat. The black plastic/epoxy chip package material is generally NOT particularly conductive! Topside heatsinks will help - a little - so long as they don't block airflow to the motherboard, but should not be considered a 'cure' for an overloaded, marginally cooled FET. A 'proper' heatsink would solder to the base of the FET so as to directly cool the metal tab. Blowing air on the both sides of the mobo is probably all you can realistically do to keep the FETs from entering Meltdown Mode under heavy load.
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