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Why you shouldn't mix Alu+Copper. Another Horror History. - Page 4

post #31 of 51
Ive had two aluminum engines in my vehicle with the stock oem brass/copper rad. No problems what so ever with corrosion. The first engine I took out had over 130k miles and the coolant parts where clean. Ive taken apart several aluminum engines that had brass/copper rads and they were just fine.
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post #32 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Sonic-Boom View Post
It is definitely galvanic corrosion. When two different metals(types) are used together, one becomes an anode and one becomes a cathode.
Quote:
Originally Posted by somebadlemonade View Post
distilled water isn't a corrosion inhibitor like ethylene glycol is. . .
^THESE^

That's why we use corrosion inhibitor (De-Ox, Anti-Ox) in the Electrical trade when we land Cu conductors on Al lugs or vice versa.
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post #33 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerscott View Post
Ive had two aluminum engines in my vehicle with the stock oem brass/copper rad. No problems what so ever with corrosion. The first engine I took out had over 130k miles and the coolant parts where clean. Ive taken apart several aluminum engines that had brass/copper rads and they were just fine.
Don't use antifreeze, just water and see what happens.
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post #34 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by huhh View Post
Don't use antifreeze, just water and see what happens.
DUH! It's called coolant to water ratio.
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post #35 of 51
Yikes that looks wrong.. : /
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post #36 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerscott View Post
DUH! It's called coolant to water ratio.


Just water.....
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post #37 of 51
Since we're on the subject, can anyone identify what's on the right side of this block. I bought a kit used off of here in otherwise great condition. I took the block apart to be on the safe side, and I'm glad I did. Here are the before and after pics:

Before:


After:


I tried water rinses originally, and it only got that grease looking gunk off, but the right side stuff stayed. I just soaked the copper piece by itself in 5% white vinegar (no o-ring or other parts) for about 3 hours, scrubbing at the deposits with a soft bristle tooth brush every 15-20 minutes. After the 3 hours, you get the after photo.

There is still a little tiny bit of that tan crap, as you can barely see. The second image is rotated 90 degrees clockwise. I don't know what the stuff was, but it reminded me of calcium buildup/precipitation that I used to have in my saltwater aquarium because it was very hard, hence why I soaked it in vinegar instead of trying to scrape it off. Made me wonder if the previous user used tap water in his loop, or if its just a common issue with cooling loops over time, or if there is normally galvanic transport between the brass of radiators and the copper of the waterblock (and possibly in aluminum impellers of pumps)?
post #38 of 51
Brass is part copper and part tin. They like to hug each other. Pumps should have stainless steal in them so no problems there.

I don't see anything on the "right" side. I see the gunk in the center and the redish stuff on the bottom left of the first pic.


You can try a lemon bath.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=330402
Edited by Rangerscott - 4/17/11 at 11:17am
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post #39 of 51
Quote:
Originally Posted by Rangerscott View Post
Brass is part copper and part tin. They like to hug each other. Pumps should have stainless steal in them so no problems there.

I don't see anything on the "right" side. I see the gunk in the center and the redish stuff on the bottom left of the first pic.


You can try a lemon bath.

http://www.overclockers.com/forums/s...d.php?t=330402
I didn't know that about copper and tin, and I didn't realize that the pumps were stainless instead of aluminum. Good info, and that makes a lot of sense. I still wonder what it was that caused the hardened buildup (it's like a dirty yellow color on the right side of the center pins in the before pic), but again thanks for the info!
post #40 of 51
Depends on what the person used as coolant and what was mixed in it. I just cleaned my loop out after 2 years or so of use with Fesser UV coolant (OH NOES!!!) and everything was clean.

Copper is copper. Brass is copper and tin mixed together. A lot of rads have brass chambers (where the coolant flows) and copper fins. Theres a few out there that state they are "all" copper.
Edited by Rangerscott - 4/17/11 at 11:45am
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