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I want to dye my loop. The best option? - Page 4

post #31 of 33
Actually, high quality fluid is the best option for it to 'eventually' break from the water.

I got my coolant from my Dad, he works for an Engine company and they use it in their engines for testing purposes. It's UV Reactive, looks just like FESER, and supposedly, it has a life of 5ish years
     
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post #32 of 33
There is really no need for dyes if you get creative with UV tubing and leds on the reservoir.

Here is the Koolance bay res with just different colored LED lights:



I've had ok luck using swiftech Hydrx, it still stained tubing a bit, but didn't give me the plugging hassles the dyes I've tried have.
    
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post #33 of 33
Hate to sound like a broken record but avoid putting dye in your loop like the plague. After reading many posts on various threads saying DON'T well guess what.... I did anyway lol. To me now it's a laughing matter but let me tell you that crap dyed every single part! After draining my loop, my Apogee XT block had gunk it (took apart cleaned very throughly and gently with a copper wire brush, my EK Nickel Acetal GTX 480 block looks like crap, my swift-tech micro res was stained, my rad was stained my clear tubing forget about it, it all had to be replaced, XSPC acrylic top stained, and worst of all my MCP35X pellar turned purple (originally blue, blue and red make purple!!) After draining, cleaning very throughly and refilling, my loop would become pink again! Yep pink! I drained and refilled at least 3 more times and each time the pink hue would get lighter. It was the rad and res that were so badly stained that water would keep turning pink. Last draw I boiled water dropped the rad into and water almost instantly became pinkish-red same with res repeated with clean water 2 more time before water would come back clear. After all this everything is back to normal and clear water in my loop, only thing my pump pellar is still purple

The craziest thing is the dye was only in my loop for 4 maybe 5 days!!
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